studly

I just replaced the ambient air temperature sensor. Easy as pie. I simply had to remove about 10-12 clips on the plastic cover over the radiator and remove two T-10 torx screws on the hood release lever to liberate the cover (Amazingly, none of the clips broke. All came out and went back in with zero problems). Once the cover was removed, the temp sensor is easily accessible. The sensor cable snakes through a few guides and can be pulled out for even easier access to the sensor. I was able to work the sensor out of the mounting hole. There is a red sliding catch on the plug that must be pulled back to disconnect the cable. The plug was quite tight. I had to use a screwdriver to pry it out. I plugged in the new sensor ($6.45 from RockAuto), snapped it into the mounting hole and re-snaked the cable. I put the radiator cover back on and reattached the lever arm to the hood release. All done! I started up my Suburban. The temperature read 82 °F. Other thermometers at my house read 80 °F. Close enough. It might be reading high as my vehicle was sitting in the sun.

Yes! That graphic helped me locate it perfectly.

Where is the Ambient Air Temperature Sensor on a 2021 Chevy Suburban? How do you access it? I believe mine is going bad.

My 2021 Suburban had the cherry red tintcoat which looks like what you have. My paint is still in great shape. People ask me how I make is shine so much. I do wax it several times per year.

Every once in a while, I hear a sloshing sound but it doesn't seem to be a problem otherwise.

I'm looking for longevity. V-8 Suburbans statistically last longer than V-6 Fords.

Ford doesn't make any SUV's with a V-8.

xx

When you're in part-time 4WD on a hard, dry surface, the vehicle is going to buck when turning as the front wheels are fighting the back wheels as they both want to rotate at different speeds. All part-time 4WD vehicles will do this. And this is hard on the drive train. That's why they call it "part-time." You don't want to leave it in this mode for regular driving. The AUTO mode solves this problem by running in 2WD and only engaging 4WD when a loss of traction is detected.

GM Recalls 460,000 Vehicles for Rear Wheel Lock-Up Risk https://www.theepochtimes.com/business/gm-recalls-460000-vehicles-for-rear-wheel-lock-up-risk-5759400

GM Recalls 460,000 Vehicles for Rear Wheel Lock-Up Risk https://www.theepochtimes.com/business/gm-recalls-460000-vehicles-for-rear-wheel-lock-up-risk-5759400

Never forget that Suburbans are sought simply for their towing capabilities. The max towing package will add resale value to any Suburban. If you have to pay more (and/or shop longer) for a Suburban with max towing, it will bring back more money in the future if/when you choose to sell it.

Is there a reasonable place where I can tap some power in the overhead console for a dash cam?

Is it stolen?

GM To Fix Chevy Tahoe, Suburban And GMC Yukon Third-Row Headrest Issue https://gmauthority.com/blog/2021/04/gm-to-fix-chevy-tahoe-suburban-and-gmc-yukon-third-row-headrest-issue/

How dads feel when you ask for their help with literally anything Note: Dad shows up in a latest generation GMC Yukon https://www.facebook.com/reel/1268563370450502

A friend of mine had a problem just like this with her Toyota. The problem was a weak battery in her key fob.

I get a noise in the back, too, in my 2021 Suburban. I would characterize it as more of a "clunking" noise. It's either the lift gate glass or the doors on the deck floor. I can't really nail it down. It seems worse if I have gear in the back (which suggests the floor) but it also seems worse when I have the windows open (suggesting air pressure on the lift gate glass).

I'd like to install an in-car camera. Is there a good place to tap power in the overhead console for a camera?

I used cars.com to find my Suburban. I had to drive a couple hours to buy it but it was worth it to me.

The problem was intermittent. Just moving the wire harness would make it come and go. They kept changing stuff and the problem would go away but only temporarily.

That was some great detective work. Reminds me of a problem I had with a 2008 Chevy Suburban. The left turn signal would stop working. It went into the dealer 3-4 times (including 2 overnight stays) at a cost of $1200+. They had replaced the body control module and the fuse box (2x) and the problem still wasn't resolved. I finally decided to take the time to diagnose it myself. The problem turned out to be a sharp corner of metal on the fender well poking in (and shorting) a wire in the harness coming out of the fuse block. I padded it with rubber insulation and the problem was solved. I posted my findings somewhere (I think in the forums here).

Good news! I reset my system to "Factory defaults," I cleared the user data and I cleared the default apps. Now, my phone works wirelessly as expected! I had to reprogram some things (radio stations, WiFi network, etc.) but that was not a big deal.

My problem is not as bad as yours but, about every 20 trips, my satellite radio refuses to load and does not work. Like you, I have to shut the car off and wait before I can restart and it resumes working. Even worse, the Apple CarPlay does not connect to my phone about every 5th time. Again, I have to play games to make it work. This is a real PITA. I recently rented a Lincoln and it worked first time, every time. The software in this GM radio is the pits.

My 2021 Suburban does the same thing. My solution to connect wirelessly is to have the phone connect to the vehicle WiFi. Then, CarPlay works wirelessly. I don't have any data service for my vehicle WiFi so, when it connects, it says something like "in low data mode" but it works. Unfortunately, you have to go through this process every time you get into the car. I have rented other new vehicles (e.g. Ford) and CarPlay worked wirelessly every time with zero effort on my part. I don't know why GM can't seem to get this right.