Im going to Rinderle tire in Neeosho on hyw 60 west of hartford. Any other ideas ? where did you go ? Ive dealt with them many times and think they are a quality shop IMO. Always open to suggestions.
I'll have to update my sig. I have a 2.5" front and a 1" lift in the rear at the moment. I guess if I do go 4" i will do a pro comp . I probably leave it alone though. Just need to get the rim tire thing figured out.
if I want to replace my tires I will have to go "E" rated and then the tires will be way higher in pressure . min of 50-65 with a E rated tire . Thats pretty much all thats available in the 285/70/17 and 285/65/18 market. I also pull a heavy load at times and a P rated is not going to cut it I would not expect you guys to have any issues with what your running. Thats whats going to code the light to go on and stay on (as per the tire shop).
Just wondering if anyone has this ? I have read up on it and it seems like a nice bolt on kit that id designed well and has the proper parts like a diff drop , new skid plate , upper CA'S , shock extenders , ect.... They are a site sponsor , so wondering if anyone has one. Pro's / con's
I have a 2012 Z71 Tahoe with a CCM lift 2.5" F and 1" rear is how its set up now. It has 265.65.18 tires and stock rims (18x8) I think. I went to a tire shop today and they told me if I put bigger tires on (E rated) 285.65.18 I won't be able to get rid of the TPMS warning light. If I decide to switch to 17" rims which is an option I am looking at and going with 285.70.17 the said I will still have the same issues with TPMS. Is that the truth ? how do you all work around the bigger tire option sand LT rated tires. Thanks Mike
Fallz replied to Drifthopper's topic in 1999-2013 Silverado & Sierra 1500I always get the Z71. My GMC has the Z71 and all-terrain package . Why are you worried about $275 when spending the big $$ on the truck anyway. Just get it and don't look back.
I notice mine very seldom goes to V4 mode . I only know if I watch it . I have never felt it kick in or out , smooth as glass (8,800 miles so far). If I buy a programmer (off the shelf type) I will disable it .I bought a v8 and I want to drive a v8. I honestly don't think it makes a difference since it's in V4 so seldom . I have 3.42 gears so maybe that makes a difference i don't know . Maybe it will be more noticed to me when I put 285's on it , IDK. I see some people on here that said they don't have AFM , I thought all 5.3's had it .
I wish my 2011 has some type of indicator as to what mode your in . Its only on the little dial and not easy to see . Why didnt they put something on the dash/speedo area with all the other gadget lights .
For a street truck you maybe right. Not good for off road unless you have ample sidewall . lol , I am a little old school . I want to swap my factory crappy 18's for a set of aftermarket 17's because I can buy a set of rims and tires for the price of 18" tires like a BFG AT 285/70/17.
Seems like just about everybody likes these 20" wheels. IMO they are "sport" wheels for street only tires. 20" wheels are also not prefered for any type of off road use, not enough sidewall. OP, if you plan on doing any off roading, 17-18" wheels is the way to go IMO. I totally agree !!! 17" or 18" if you plan on off roading .
These trucks all look nice . Great job guys and it helps me in my decision. I am going to go with a 2" front but no sure if I will go Daystar 2" or do a RC 2". I'm not worried about the install , but more so which ones will wear parts faster (like ball joints , ect....) but since I want to also get rid of some of the "rake" and I don't want it to be totally level I am going to put 3/4" - 1" blocks on the back end just to tweek it up a bit. I will be putting weight back there in winter and do pull a trailer on occasion and don't want my ass end lower than front. Advice always welcome
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