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Drives

Found 13 results

  1. I currently drive a 2012 4.8 4x4 silverado regular cab longbox and found a 2010 Denali truck that is super cheap because the front end was smashed up. I'm wondering if my front end peices will fit on it and if my drivetrain will work with the rear end gears . What issues will I run into with the swap ? Electrical and mechanical? Unfortunately the 6.2 and transmission won't be coming with the truck shell. I'm just curious if it's even worth the swap. Thanks in advance
  2. I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 4.8l rwd at 187k miles, I still drive this truck every day as of 2-12-19. Dual exhaust, clean/strong engine and trans. I've had it for 2 years, got it at 157k miles. Only thing I had to replace is the hard brake lines and one caliper. Reason for selling is I'm buying a used 2005 sierra 1500hd or 2005 Silverado 1500hd. The toolbox does not come with it. Location Philadelphia or close by, clean title.
  3. Wondering if anyone can help me with figuring out what I need for this swap or if the swap will work I have a 01 4.8 ext cab stepside found a lq4 6.0 seller said it had the old iron heads on it but will be putting 799 heads on it wondering if it will work with a 4L60E or have to get a 80e coming from a 2500 gmc Sierra 2000ish
  4. Hi guys, I have a 2003 Silverado 4x4 with a 4.8 and 3.73s and auto trans. My catalytic converters were very plugged up and I ended up cutting them open, removing all of the material inside, and welding them back together. The truck has run much better since doing this. The problem is, since doing this i have been getting about 13.8-14 mpg with it. This is driving the same route i had been getting 16-17mpg previously. I am thinking that this has something to do with the fact that i left the o2 sensors in place. I am looking for a relatively inexpensive fix/ improvement for this, because this is just a rusted out daily driver truck with 160k that I don't really want to put a ton of money into. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with this before I tried a few of my ideas. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, i am aware that this is technically illegal, but there are no emissions tests in my state, so running no cats is not a huge issue for me. thanks
  5. Hi guys and gals. Just recently got a 2003 Sierra 1500 4.8 4x4 z71 extended cab with 300,000km on the clock. Ive been noticing it hard on gas and idle isn’t really smooth, especially when it’s colder sometimes I can see the tac jump a little. When it’s cold sometimes the engine light will flash for a few minutes. But when it’s cold sometimes the fuel gauge goes to empty and sets the gas light on and then comes back to normal after a minute or two. Use to have issues with four way randomly coming on, but that stopped for now so far. So so far I have swapped two different fuel pumps (both came from tested and running parts trucks) , new ngk wires, new ac Delco plugs sometimes you can hear what I think is a sparking noise from the passenger side. I dont have a lot of money and trying to fix this without a garage. Any help be greatly appreciated. I hooked up my phone and torque app and have attached the error codes and some data the app gave me. I just dont don’t want to be throwing parts at it trying to guess what’s wrong. Thanks for your time!
  6. Hows it going, any help and advice is VERY much appreciated. 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec 1500 4wd. I have been trying to figure this truck out for months, shakes at all rpms although certain rpms are worse than others(the missfire) I have replaced intake manifold gaskets, double and triple checked vaccum system for leaks doing smoke tests (no vaccum leaks), replaced pcv valve, thoroughly cleaned injectors, confirmed everything fuel wise is working properly, new fuel filter. Still shaking badly. The other day I had a great idea, I waited until it got dark outside and decided to run the engine and look under the hood. Sure enough, I noticed sparking (shorting out) happening on pretty much all of the coils. The sparking is COMPLETELY random and there is never a consistent spark, for example one moment coils for cyl# 2,5,1,7 will be sparking, the next moment they wont and others will, and sometimes they look like they arent sparking at all, Also may mention that the drivers side of the motor seems to be sparking more often but it does indeed happen on both sides. It seems to spark a little more frequently when you spike the throttle. All i have replaced in the ignition system is the spark plugs, and made no difference at all. All of the coils are producing a spark at the spark plug. I have checked the common grounds to each ignition coil (plug on the top of the coil) and they all were grounded. Truck has 240k miles. If someone could please help me I would really appreciate it I feel like im SO close to fixing this thing and is my only car right now and need to figure it out. Thanks
  7. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  8. This is driving me insane, 2000 Silverado 4.8 vortec has codes for random missfire and apparently all cylinders are missing about the same amount of times according to the Chevy dealer. I noticed a small intake manifold gasket leak (truck would barely run on cold cold starts till it warmed up) so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and did multiple smoke tests confirming no air leaks... I have checked each individual spark plug for spark, they all do. Had fuel pressure within spec. Removed all injector connectors 1 at a time and they all made a big difference (all are working in pretty sure).. I replaced pcv valve and fuel filter to be safe. I also plugged up the egr port in the manifold to see if I have a leaky egr system still nothing. The codes the truck also gave are map and maf sensor codes, although the codes were pulled before I changed the intake manifold gaskets so I'm assuming the manifold leak may have caused these sensors to throw codes but I am going to swap sensors with another truck tomorrow. Truck does have 240k on it, but I know this problem is fixable although I have nearly lost all hope as of this point. Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
  9. How's it going, I have a 2000 single cab 4.8 Silverado 1500 that has a misfire, gradually revving up the engine you can tell the engine is missing and causes truck to vibrate, and vibration is worse while driving. Has following codes: p0300, p0137, p0141, p0157. I believe these are codes for random engine misfire and various 02 sensors? If someone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it thanks
  10. Ive got a 2007 silverado classic with a 4.8l in it. I got afe cold air, gibson longtube headers, stock cats, dynoflow 3 inch cat back exhaust, and edge cts2 gas programmer. I pull a 4500 pound trailer at least once a month and need more power. I keep getting told to put a cam in to make more power but the truck has 250000km on it. Not dropping a 6.0l in it because people on kijiji are on crack I mean im running premium, changing synthetic oil every 5000km, babying this truck, so is a cam worth it? If so whats the best cam i can put in without changing valves and all that fun stuff? If i put one in a motor with so many miles on it am i risking blowing the motor or tranny? Thanks
  11. This is my first post and I'm new here. I have a '07 ext cab Silverado, 4.8, 96,000 miles, non-flex fuel, LT, 2WD, 3.23 rear, in Tennessee. The problem started one day when I left a traffic light. I took off and when it reached around 10 mph, it dumped out and then picked back up as if it was out of gas, which I thought it was. It was very low on fuel. I stopped and got some gas but the problem persisted and got worse. I thought I had let the fuel level get low enough to pick up some trash from the bottom of the tank. I've done this before and it clogged up the fuel filter. But, alas, there is no serviceable fuel filter on this truck. I continued driving it with the sputtering/dumping/hesitation/whatever you call it. It feels like you hit the throttle and then once it starts going you've turned the key off. But it picks back up. I finally got a "check engine" light so I pulled the 3 DTC's, which were all fuel pump related, one being the fuel pump relay, which I changed. Cleared the codes, they came back with a vengeance, so I exposed the fuel tank from the top. Back in the day, I could pull the bed off a Silverado with one other person and set it on the ground. This truck has a heavy bed, plus I had no immediate help, so I devised a slick way to slide the bed back three feet by using a couple of 4 ft 4x4 posts and two pieces of 6 ft. conduit, but that's for another post, I guess. Anyway, I pulled the pump, set the pick up in a can of gasoline and wired it straight to the battery. It made way more noise than I thought it would make, plus it barely trickled gasoline out the supply. So I disassembled the rack and cleaned everything to where it all looked like new and tried the straight wire thing again. Same result, so I ordered a new Delphi fuel pump assembly and waited three days for it to show. Hey, $256 vs. $526 at my local dealer is worth a three day wait to me. In the meantime I dropped the spare tire and pulled the plug and cleaned all the terminals of the harness junction and verified a good ground. Got the new pump and installed it. The truck cranked right up and throttled up just as it should, so I put the whole thing back together and went for a test drive. It did the dump out thing almost immediately but not nearly as bad. Also, it doesn't just buck once. It felt like you were trying to break a horse, as if someone was driving and going from no throttle to wide open throttle and back again. If you barely used any throttle at all, it would almost act normally so I knew the problem was in the fuel delivery. However, within ten minutes the engine had sputtered to the point that I barely got it back in to my driveway. Now it will not crank. Fuse, relay and fuel pump have been changed. Ground and wiring are good, but I'm about to put it on jack stands and recheck the ground because I have a funny feeling about it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I rebuild muscle cars from frame off and everything in between so I'm the guy that has never taken a car to a dealer or a repair shop for anything. My day job is as a Network Engineer so I was one of the few that welcomed the auto computer age so that doesn't scare me either. I will say, though, that this truck requires some searching if you're looking for something like a relay. Thanks in advance for any help.
  12. I have a 2006 gmc 4.8 and just want to know what peoples thoughts are on cutting off the muffler and welding a pipe in its place.
  13. Hey guys, I'm having a huge issue with my truck, for some reason I can not get the brake warning light on the dash to go away. It all started while I was driving at the desert (it's a long travel truck). I was taking it easy and I succumbed to my dads peer pressure to abuse it. Thats is when the dash light came on. A variety of other things came up, but ever other issue was fixed. I've exhausted every evil plan to murder this light but nothing does the trick. I changed out every light bulb, I replaced the rear tail lights, I replaced all the brake lines, bled the entire system, checked every fuse, replaced every brake and rotors as well, the parking brake is released, the parking brakes have been replaced, at this point I was thinking of ripping out the dash light but as a mechanic I just can't fail. Now yesterday on the freeway I realized my cruise control is not working either. Anybody have any idea how this could correlate to my brake light issue?
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