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Found 16 results

  1. I have a 2008 Silverado 1500 LT with the 5.3 vortec and it needs a new engine. Is it possible to put a 2003 5.3 Vortec engine in this truck or not?
  2. Hey yall! New member here, sorry for creating a thread so early on, but my warranty expiration is creeping up on me fast and I need to get this sorted- so here's my issue. I have a 2015 2500HD with the 6.0 and about 95,000mi, and for the past 6 months, I've been having this issue where It'd start pulling timing ( up to 15 degrees of KR) under moderate to heavy throttle, as soon as it hits 3000RPM. There is no audible knock, but 15 degrees of KR sounds very excessive. Higher octane fuel makes the issue better, and usually after long interstate drives (no heatsoak), it runs great, but generally, it's very bad. Towing a 32FT trailer full of band equipment up a mild hill, it struggles to get out of first gear, and slams into the next gear because the timing is so far retarded before the shift, that it screws with the shift timing. I have used various fuel system cleaners ( now trying Amsoil Pi, as I know its well proven ) but so far, none have made any difference. I want to check the fuel pressure, but I don't see a test port, and I can't get any OBD app to display fuel pressure. Here's what confuses me: Sometimes, under the same conditions, It'll run just fine and pull hard straight through 3000 RPM. The only thing I can find different between the times that it runs like a POS and times that it runs like its brand new, is that when it's running like crap, it shudders at idle- enough to be felt throughout the entire truck. It pulls the most timing at around 3000, and tapers down as the revs increase. I got it used, with about 76,000mi, so I'm not clear about its past. Back when it was running horribly I was considering that It might have been tuned by the previous owner, but lately, its been randomly running just fine. Its been fine for the past week or so, but I'm still very curious about what could be going on. I have TorquePRO recordings of the issue happening, which I may upload later if that would be of any help. I've been hoping for a CEL but of course- no pending or stored codes! Thank you all! Sorry for the length of the post!
  3. New guy here with engine problems. All parts are stock. No modifications have been done to engine and engine management to our knowledge. With that said, here is what is going on. Truck is a 1996 GMC Sierra. Crew cab, long bed, C3500, non dually. Has 7.4 454 Vortec and 4l80e transmission. Driveline has 147,000 miles and engine has good compression. All cylinders read 120 to 140 PSI. What's going on is the engine refuses to run properly. First up is the MAF sensor. Had the engine light on the dash so I used our OBD2 scan reader on it. Got P0102 which is Mass Air Flow sensor low output. Replaced the sensor with a Bosch unit and cleared the code. Next engine start that same code came back. I checked all the wires and plugs that section of the harness goes through. It has a good run to the computer. No frays or breaks. I even reset all plugs thinking there might have been some resistance in the connectors. No dice. Code comes back every time I clear it. Any ideas? Next up is the really serious problem that prevents the engine from running properly when cold. Low fuel pressure. According to our gauge it only has 20 PSI max and leaks down as soon as the pump turns off. On the fuel system we have a new pump in tank, fresh filter, and new regulator. That was a pain to install as the top of the intake manifold had to come off. Still have the low pressure and leak down. We thought the injectors were leaky but the thing is lean at idle as we sprayed starting fluid in the intake tube and the idle evened out. When cold it doesn't want to idle at all but will even out at 650 to 750 RPM when warm. Any idea what is going on? We have no idea what type of pump is in the tank as the people who own the truck put it in before we were tasked with fixing it. Still have the stock one. We plan to pressure test it and if it can go up to at least 80 PSI we will just put it back in and see what happens. So, any ideas on what is going on? I can record videos if any of you want to see the engine and hear it running. If anyone can figure this out I would greatly appreciate it as this goes beyond my knowledge of fuel injection problems.
  4. Hi im rebuilding an 86 5.7l small block dumped the old heads (warped one) installed 2 Vortec heads , the motor that will see MARINE use, 48' house boat 3Bowee try hull. my q is what is the purpose of the VALLEY COVERS in the engine ? there was a very rusty cover held by 3 bolts that connected to a central oil delivery " tube", do I need it? why is the cover used in the first place? will its absence cause detrimental issues in the future? ps .aluminum intake manifold is new how do I make sure proper install I got rigid plastic intake gaskets new grade 8 bolts from local supplyer keep snaping at 25 foot/pd setting help!
  5. how does the fuel pressure regulator come off the fuel rail on a 1997 chevy vortec 7.4 MFI engine? We have the fuel rail out and the vacuum activated fuel pressure regulator appears to be attached directly to the fuel rail. There is not the normal clip holding it on that you would see on non-MFI engines (TBI). Its either pressed on, or somehow attached to the bracket which is attached to the rail.
  6. I have a 1997 k2500 Suburban with the 7.4 vortec. It is a 290,000 mile engine and I was recently doing some work to it. I put new injectors, valve cover and upper intake gaskets, distributor, plugs, wires, and a fuel presssure regulator. This engine was fine before and the only reason I had done this work was because it was cranking for about 5-8 seconds before it would start. When I put everything back together, I got the timing as best as I could (I do not know how to properly time these newer engines) and started it. Immediately, the engine was shuttering and I could hear what sounded like a lifter tap. It was idling very rough and after about 4-5 min a louder knocking sound started up. I immediately cut the engine and checked the oil for metal, and there was none. I am simply baffled at this as I didn’t touch anything when I had the valve covers off. My only two ideas are this. 1) it is not timed right, and I need to figure out how, or 2) the old distributor had some wear on the gear, and possibly the cam has the same wear and isn’t working right with the new distributor. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  7. Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
  8. Hey guys and gals, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1997 chevy 1500 with 4.3 vortec 5 speed. 2WD... I have pulled the bad 5 speed out. I'm going to replace it with an automatic....I have access to a th350, a 700r4, and a 96 model 4L60e. THIS IS A SCRAP-HAULING TRUCK THAT ONLY IS USED LOCALLY...THATS IMPORTANT, because a lot of people are going to have opinions on the Why?s of this swap. All im looking for is a simple way to use one of these trannys in the truck. Let me preface this by saying that I AM NOT going the route of replacing pcms, tcms, or anything of the like, if I dont have to....so my first question is.... 1. Is there a way, using stock 5 speed wiring harness, to run wires to the 4L60e and make it work. Which means shifts correct AND, allows the engine to run with potentially improper VSS inputs and all that. I can wire, and I can read diagrams. I dont care at all if the computer causes engine lights, even if the dash is lit up like a xmas tree...its a rusted scrap hauler. I ALSO DONT CARE ABOUT DRIVESHAFT LENGTHS, CROSSMEMBERS, or all the other things that could be a problem..I've got a shop, I'll fix those. 2. If I use the 700r4, I know that it will bolt up and there wont be a problem with flex plate, torque converters, because my cousin has one in his 97, same truck exactly. He told me he had a hell of a time getting a tv cable bracket to work with his stock v6 vortec manifold though..no proper mounting holes for the bracket. But I know it can be done. Yes, all the harness and plugs are different on the 700r4, so same question as above...can it be wired using the stock 5 speed harness, and if not, I know how to simply put in a 4th gear swith to lock the convertor, that's no problem. Again though...is the engine going to run properly without any trans vss(or other) signals not received. As long as it runs properly I dont care about codes and engine lights(scrap hauler again). And ...3. I'm very tempted to put this old th350 in it....I'm pretty sure it will bolt up, fairly certain all I need is a vacuum run from manifold pressure...and I'll be good to go. Again, I have 50 driveshaft and about as many crossmembers so those things dont come into the equation. Same concern as before, above...WITH ABSOLUTELY NO 5 SPEED HARNESS TRANSMISSION WIRES HOOKED UP, WILL THE ENGINE STILL RUN??. I dont mind jumper wires or doing what it takes to keep the transmission plugs sending a happy signal to the computer...I just want everyone's opinion on the SIMPLEST way to get this truck to move, and allow the engine to start and run like normal. Having said all that, and since I used all the caps, and reiterated several times that it's just a scrap hauler rust bucket..I'll tell you why I've been soooooo diligent to get all the facts straight..its because I'm 52, I have read about a thousand forum sites and entries over the years and gotten a lot of great info from them, and I think they are great! But what I dont think is great, or very helpful to the person posting a question, is that a lot of guys want to ask questions like, "why would you want to do that? If it were me I'd go get me a new transmission or a rebuilt one, and put it right in with a so and so clutch, and a thousand dollar tcm...." you get the picture, right? I hope I'm not coming off as a smart-#$@ or anything, I just dont think those opinions ever help the person asking the question. You may have a lot more resources (monetary and availibilty) than most of us schlubs out there...and sometimes we just want to know the technical possibility of if the question we are asking is feasible...not whether you agree with it...the reason I say this is because I've seen most forum threads go off topic from 2 or 3 regulars joisting about who knows the most, and then the poor guy posting the question never gets a good answer. Face it, you've seen that happen too, right? So, have written a book report, whew!...I now leave it to you guys to help me if you can. I'm a really nice guy...I just wanted to be accurate about my problem, and hopefully derail the one-,upmanship before it begins. Thanks my new friends!!
  9. Im swapping a 4.3 out of a silverado 2003 into a 1996 silverado trans is 4l60 e. Out of a 1998 jimmy they changed transmission to ls style for. 2003 4.3. Do they sell adapters for this. Or a special torque converter. Can I just use the ls to 4l60e adapter with new bell housing if I swap trans to 2003 it moves everything back 3/4 of an inch do I have to modify drive shaft trans mount
  10. I will be searching the forums here shortly, but I am semi-stranded on a 1,750 mile road trip with 5 kids under 10, over 500 miles from both my origin and destination. I have a 2001 Suburban I bought with 260,000 miles on it. I'm now pushing 270,000 I made it to a hotel nearby a Chevrolet Dealer, but they don't open for service until Monday. I was cruising at freeway speeds and suddenly the truck engine died and began coasting to a stop. I put the truck in neutral, restarted it, and it fired up and popped back into drive. About 150-200 miles it started happening more frequently. When the engine loses power, the tachometer shows the engine speed dying out, so it is not a total loss of signal from whatever provides the signal to the tachometer. After dying out, the engine will fire back up and idle with minimal extra cranking. The engine starts up and idles well at these times, and I have had to idle it with the family in it and it runs the AC no problem at idle. I have not had the condition pop up at idle. Sometimes, the engine will recover itself and resume accellerating as we are coasting if I feather the pedal. I have an AutoEnginuity scanner and a decent array of tools that I travel with. MIL is not on. I have some history codes for: P0461: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (I believe this code was never cleared from before I replaced the sending unit previously) P1172: Fuel Transfer pump Flow Insufficient - This one kind of makes me wonder. On the trip, due to having the kids in the car, I have refueled at various levels with the engine running for A/C. Alldata says this code will not set if P0461 is present. P1431: Fuel Level Sensor 2 Circuit performance. The only way I could see the secondary fuel pump effecting drivability, aside form usable fuel, is if the secondary pump failure has caused it to become an excessive current draw. When I bought the truck, the fuel gage was not working, which I traced back to the primary sending unit in the tank. At around 265K miles. I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit assembly at this time with a new AC Delco OEM replacement part. Since that replacement, I have made the same 3,500 round trip road trip without issue about 1 month ago. One difference this time is that the ambient temperature this time is considerably warmer outside, however the coolant and trans temp gages have been riding right at where they normally do. Prior to that last trip as well, I put AC Delco Irridium spark plugs gapped at .045", and a 180F thermostat in the truck. The only other issue that I had was that at one point the EGR became stuck open by a small piece of stray carbon that would cause the truck to not idle. When the stalling symptoms first surfaced on this trip, I put a new AC Delco fuel filter in the truck and replaced the primary fuel pump relay just to rule them out, I would find it odd that a fuel pump would fail at that juncture at 5K miles old, however I am planning to get down to AutoZone and purchase a fuel pressure gage just to check that out during the moments when the problems are being experienced. The old fuel filter didn't seem restricted with a blow-through test. I do know this truck has both a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor, and I have seen a lot of similar symptoms that relate to the failure of one or both of these. I think that's where I'm looking next if the fuel pressure checks out. Am I correct in assuming that the engine would throw a DTC if an ignition coil or coil group was intermittently failing? Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks! Steve 2001 Suburban 2500 8.1L 4x4, 270K Miles
  11. I am trying to install courtesy lights with the GMC logo on my 2008 Sierra but after getting the first one drilled I realized there is not a light in the reflector on the door. Can anyone provide the related diagram for the wiring within the door / does anyone know if any of the door lights are only activated when the door is opened so that I can tie into those wires? It's a crew cab so I will be attempting to install them on all four doors. TIA.
  12. I just bought a 2010 Silverado LTZ 4x4 last Thursday and a few days ago it started leaking oil, and now I noticed it smokes from the engine bay on startup. It's not a lot of smoke, but it smokes on startup and smells like something is burning and then a few seconds later it'll stop. I opened up my engine bay and it looks like it is coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold, maybe a worn exhaust gasket? I'm not sure. It is white smoke, and there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust as well. It's hardly noticeable from the exhaust, but when looking in the engine bay you can clearly see it. If anyone has any ideas what this could be please help me out.
  13. I am really interested in swapping out my 4.3 Vortec for a v8 in my 2003 Silverado 4x4 5speed manual. Any tips or advice and what is needed for this swap? I have read some posts about this but they all have different info on what is needed and difficulty etc.. thanks!
  14. I am looking for some help here with my truck. Current situation, bought the truck with a no start condition, Discovered Water in the fuel. Drained the lines and put fresh fuel in, started 6-7 times with bad idle then stalled. 8th time started right up drove it around for 30 mins with no codes and prefect idle. Left it idling and went for lunch. Stalled when I was away, could not get it to start. Starting fluid would only keep it going to a few seconds. Then I changed the fuel filter, It Started perfectly for 15 seconds then stalled. It only attempts to start when I leave it alone for a while. Vehicle Details 1998 C3500 DRW 5.7 Vortec 180,000 KM Good condition Repairs, Fuel Pump Fuel Filter No codes. Gift Certificate to the Person Who leads me in the right direction.
  15. I have an RX Speedworks catch can that i had installed on my 2016 Sierra. It attaches using the bolt for the brake fluid. Has the clean side separator that I used as well but not included in the pics but can provide more pics upon request. Will work on other vehicles. My price is obo shipped. TIA. https://www.rxspeedworks.com/product/gmc-sierra-oil-catch-can/
  16. Hello all! A few months ago I purchased a 2006 Silverado 2500 with the 6.0 Vortec engine. My coolant is slightly discolored and there seems to be a little scale inside the tank. I would like to backflush the system, but I am not entirely sure how on this truck. My Chiltons manual says to remove the thermostat and reinstall the housing by itself, then hook up a garden hose to the radiator and backflush. 2 chapters later, the same manual says that the thermostat is part of the housing and cannot be removed! Any advice?
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