bronco351

It is a 2014 silverado 1500 with the 5.3L. Sounds like I'll be brining it to a mechanic. Thanks

My CEL came on a couple of weeks ago. P050D: cold start rough idle. I cleared it, and took it to the dealer when it came back. They charged me $190 to tell me that it is the #7 fuel injector and is no longer covered by warranty. They quoted me about $800 to replace it. Another mechanic quoted me $360. How hard would this be to replace myself? Or is this something that is best sent to a mechanic?

I have bfg all terrains. They are much heavier than the stock tires. No tune or other upgrades.

I have a 2014 5.3L with the 3.73s. I currently have 285/70r17 tires, and they dropped my mileage. Before tires i got about 18/24mpg city/hwy I now get about 15/20 with the bigger tires. Winter is about 20% worse. My last truck was an f150 with 3.55. It had great mileage on the highway, but really struggled with a trailer that was about 50% of the tow rating. I feel that the lower ratios are better for highway, but make the engine work more when accelerating or towing. I would be surpised if there is a difference in the "real world"

Here is a picture:

2014 Silverado 1500, 5.3L max tow, 82000km (about 51k miles). I noticed a small oil leak coming from my truck. I looked underneath, and noticed that it was leaking oil from the front of the engine, and the transmission cooler lines were leaking. Called the dealership to book an appointment. They did their usual sales pitch: Ethanol fuel line service Transmission fluid transfer case fuild Needs new brakes New power steering fuild..... And that's where i stopped her. My truck has EPS, no fluid. "oh, its one of those new ones", I had already told her what year it was. 2014 isn't new. Oil leak was the oil cooler, and covered by warranty. Transmission cooler lines weren't. I declined to get them done, as a non-dealer mechanic quoted me nearly half the price. They did an inspection: Ball joints need to be replaced Brakes at 8-9mm, "green" Got my truck back and brought it to mechanic #2 Ball joints are "tight" and don't need replacing. Transfer case fluid is good Replaced transmission fluid. Ordered the wrong transmission lines, and then found out that the correct lines are hard to get. They told me that there are so many of these trucks with leaking cooler lines, that there is a 5-6 week wait to get them from GM. These lines were replaced a year ago on warranty due to leaks. Is there a way to fix this for good? How many people out there are having these issues?

I have never dented the metal skid plates on any of my previous vehicles. They are strong enough for me. Plastic on the other hand.... well just look at the pic! Let me know when these are available. Do i get a discount for starting this thread? :-p I'm running LT285/70R17 BFG AT KO load range E

I'm glad someone is trying to make metal skid plates. I'm in. Cost would have to be pretty high for me to say no. My friend's brother is a welder. I've seen his work, and he looks like a really good welder. I asked my friend if he would be interested in making metal skid plates for my truck. He said said that plastic is better than metal because it bends back into place, unlike metal, which is more of a one time use. My friend went on to ask a few more welders, and they all said the same thing: stick with plastic. Well i just came back from a hunting trip. We were driving down mostly gravel roads, and some trails through fields. The only obstacles were snow drifts that sometimes reached 1.5'. "Cheby", as we ended up calling her, did really well. We got stuck a couple of times, but only had to dig ourselves out once (truck got high centered, we could spin a couple tires with our boots". But then I noticed this when we got home: Strange... i thought plastic was suppose to bend back into its original form....

What did you do to it?! Do you often lift heavy things? I'm guessing that your fob is being crushed while in your pocket. I had a similar problem with a blackberry years ago. you can get protective silicon cases for FOBs. I would suggest buying one or a carabiner-style clip to attach your keys to your pants.

Let me start by saying that I don't consider myself an off roader. I do however require skid plates. I've had countless "glad i have skid plates" moments. For example: last year I was driving around in 2' of snow while hunting and got high centered on a hidden mound of dirt. It took a couple of hours of shoveling and towing to get unstuck. I'm scared when I look under my new silverado. I'm pretty sure the transfer case would be knocked off if I ended up in the same situation. I know you can get plastic z71 skid plates, but I have my doubts on their durability. Plastic works great on my quad, but on something that weighs almost 10x as much? I've searched a few times, but cannot find any place that sells metal skid plates for these trucks. Has anyone seen them?

I realized the same as the op; LT trucks come with ghetto WT mirrors. My $35k F150 came with auto dim, and this $48k Chev doesn't? Dealer is trying to get the order changed, but it might be too late. manual dim that us lazy people dislike has two options for night driving: blind me with headlights, or don't see anything. Auto dim mirrors dim to block out headlights, but not so dark that you cant see behind you. That is how my F150 works anyway. The 150 also has a dimming driver's side mirror. I don't think any GM/Chev has that. Its not about wanting ridiculous bells and whistles, its about getting what has become the norm on comparable vehicles.

I read a review where they mentioned that the slot is for parking cards. Some parking lots dispense a card when you enter, and you uses that card to pay and exit the lot. This slot would be perfect as it would prevent the card from being lost in the console, cup holders, pockets, wallet, wherever you might have put it to not lose it. The RV storage i go to requires a plastic card to enter and exit, this would be another place this slot could be used. I was a little disappointed to read in this thread that it is not there on the 4x4 models, but then I thought "no! it was on the truck i test drove". Just realized that i tested the 1wt with manual 4x4.

The 4.3 puts out 285hp and 305ft/lbs My current truck (f150 w/4.6L) puts out 292 hp and 320ft/lbs. The difference in performance between these motors isn't much, and i think the f150 weighs more. I pull a 5000lb (about, loaded) utility trailer with my 150. It struggles a bit on big hills now that i put 33s on it, but can still hold highway speed. This 4.3 motor would be a great choice if you are not going to tow more than 5000. some math: it has 50% more power, and 22% more torque than the old s-10 4.3L