2011Chevy started following Leveling kits? If so, let's see them., 2020 Denali 2500 level kit? Dealer says can’t be done., Aftermarket exhaust/intake Options and and 1 other
My 2020 2500 is leveled with a 1.5in block in rear, new bilstein 5100’s all the way around. It rides excellent, better than a stock truck. The kit I installed includes new upper control arms.
The only thing that will change the sound in any way is a resonator delete like the one currently made by Whelri custom fabrication. I had the banks version on my ‘19 duramax and it did eliminate turbo lag on that truck and have an increase in engine/turbo sound. It didn’t make it sound like a deleted truck but there was a noticeable difference in sound from the drivers seat.
I understand, and agree with that concern. Looking at mine on factory offset, my best guess would be that you will trim (or loose) the factory plastic mud flap at the cab side of wheel well, Along with likely bumper and/or plastic valence trimming on the front of wheel opening. A 37 on a -19 offset really puts the tires outside the body. I don’t remember seeing a 37 on that large a negative offset without 5in of lift or more, but there are a few out there with level only on 35’s and a negative 19...looks like minor trimming, with one saying he removed the plastic mud flap... https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/913000/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-fuel-triton-d609-rough-country-leveling-kit https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/1147608/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-hostile-gauntlet-rough-country-leveling-kit https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/984682/2020-chevrolet-silverado-2500-hd-hostile-alpha-2-inch-level-stock
His kit is nothing more than new keys and front shocks spacers, quite different than my set up. The stance on my truck is so different because of both the rear block and taller tires, but keep in mind that my front end is also considerably higher than his-I’m able to go higher because of the fact that I have aftermarket upper control arms. He has adjustment left in his torsion bars to go up higher, but if he does, he’ll be higher in front than rear AND his truck will ride horribly because his factory upper control arms are touching (or close to) the frame stop. To me there is no downside to 37’s (unless touching frame at full lock bothers you). I’ve driven both set ups and there is not a enough of a difference in power loss from 35 to 37 for me to even consider 35’s.....both trucks have all terrain type tires-35in toyo AT and my 37in nitto ridge grappler.
On mine, the bumper side of the felt fender liners on each side were cut off from the bottom up a few inches, But that’s really it. With such a big offset that comes with a -19 wheel, I don’t know what other rubbing issues you might have, but I’d guess there will be some with 37’s......unless someone else here has done it. I know that a 37 on a +18 or +20 offset, the trimming is essentially the same as mine on factory wheels. I’ve seen it up close and driven one with that setup and my lift.
My truck (3” super lift on 37’s) has less than 3k miles on it. So far every tank has averaged 15.5-16.5 mpg hand calculated and numbers taken into account for mileage discrepancy due to the larger tires. The only tank that saw less than that was towing a tandem axle utility (12.5mpg) for about 80% hwy at 70-75 and 20% two lane back roads. I’m pretty happy with these numbers considering the size of the truck and the tires and lift.
The shocks were ordered from summit racing, which was the fastest shipping of anyone I found. They are specific to a GM 2500/3500 for 2020, although they may fit previous years, not sure on that. front part number 24-253161 rear part number 24-196468
The front end height is achieved with new keys that are indexed differently than the factory keys, but doing that alone will give you a stiff ride. That’s why the lift includes new upper control arms-to allow for appropriate travel between the bottom of the arm and the metal frame stop. It also includes front differential drop spacers, which eliminates the bound up feel that these have when you just crank the keys up. Those things, along with the shock spacers, will keep the ride nice. I drove a truck for a day with this same setup on factory rancho shocks and I can say that my upgrading to bilstein 5100’s was well worth it. There is a noticeable difference in ride quality. The rear block, to me, was essential, because these new trucks have a lot less rake than in years prior, so you aren’t raising the front much before you are slightly higher than the rear. I would not want more than the 1.5” block in the rear for me personally. I’m not a tall guy and this truck sits up high by most anyone’s standards like this. 35’s with this setup on factory wheels will certainly work, and if 35’s is all you want, I’d leave the rear block out. I have a close friend who has nothing in the rear with 35’s on factory 20’s. It looks good, looks proportionate to the front just being slightly higher than stock. But it does not have the stance that my truck has, not even close. You could mistake his for being totally stock if you didn’t know better.
I have a superlift 3” on my new 2020 2500hd. Kit includes new upper control arms, keys, front diff drop, rear 1.5” blocks and shock spacers for all four corners. I switched out the factory Rancho shocks with bilstein 5100’s. Running 37in ridge grapplers on factory 18” wheels. It rides better than stock, tires rub only on frame (towards the cab) at absolute full lock. I did cut the felt fender liner slightly on the front bumper side of the fender well.
redwngr's info is exactly what I've seen online also, but it is correct that different options/trim levels will cause the numbers posted above to vary on each configuration. I don't own a 5th wheel, but I would at least consider a long bed if so, if for nothing else than the added stability that a LWB gives when towing or not. I have owned a long bed crew cab and the ride is better and more stable than the exact same model SWB. It's tough for many truck buyers today to justify a long bed due to the perceived parking/turning difficulties that come with it over a short bed. It did not take me long to get used to the difference, but that is just my experience. Around my area, you will certainly see more short bed HD trucks.
Does anyone own a CC long bed HD that can share photos? Would love to see one leveled. I am debating on ordering a lwb. I’ve had short bed 3/4 Ton trucks and currently a 1 ton srw short bed now. It’s been 8-9 years since I had a long bed, but I recall that it rode better unloaded.
I would agree with points made in rdwngr’s post above-specifically on fuel mileage. The last two 6.0 trucks I owned would regularly get (hand calculated) an avg of 11-11.5mpg per tank. This is a leveled crew cab 4wd on 35’s. My current ‘19 duramax set up identically averages 15.5-16.5 per tank....same conditions/commute/driving style. I have no idea if the 6.6 gas would do better on fuel than the 6.0’s I referenced above, set up the same way. So far, no one has provided evidence that I’ve seen to say it would be any better. Without yet driving a 6.6 gas, it is hard for me to believe that (With a 3.73 rear/6sp) it is night and day different than my previous 6.0 with 4.10/6sp. My preference for drivability Goes to the duramax.
This post is spot on. Based on my experiences with 6.0 in the past, I wouldn’t have second thoughts about it (or the 6.6 gas) in terms of keeping it long term with little to no issues. I traded a 6.0 in on my current 19 Duramax about a year ago. Absolutely love the truck. But at that time, I knew it would be a truck I’d drive for 2-3yrs tops before moving on to something else. Reason being, as samuse said above, they aren’t proven as long term reliable vehicles, mainly due to the ridiculous DPF/emissions nonsense that they are now required to have. They are very expensive to repair outside of warranty. They are more expensive to own/maintain while under warranty, mainly for people like me who don’t do their own oil and fuel filter changes. But the real added expense that you see weekly is in fuel. $20-$25 more per fill up on the dmax due to fuel price differences, but I can go an additional 100-150 miles on a tank than on the same truck I had prior with a 6.0, so you have to consider that as well. As was stated before, it is very difficult to financial justify the added upfront cost and fuel/maintenance costs in the diesel compared to gas, unless you tow heavy on a frequent basis. The justification for most doesn’t work in terms of dollars, but it does for a lot people in terms of driving experience.
Good points-I agree. I’m paying 50% more per gallon for diesel here where I live. For me and the majority of people I know who own a duramax, it came down to a “want” more than a need for towing purposes. Some put a higher value on the options (LT or higher) at the lowest possible cost upfront and over the long term (maintenance of gas vs diesel)....if so then a 6.6 gas is the way to go, no question. Others place a higher value on the daily driving feel/experience of a 6.6 duramax, and are willing to sacrifice options if necessary to get it, if trying to fall within a certain budget. I will never hook anything to my truck that would be at or over capacity for the same truck with a gas powered engine. It is however more enjoyable to drive and tow (my opinion only) with the diesel. The gas will do the job just fine, it will just be doing it (at times) at a much higher RPM.
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