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2011Chevy

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  1. Does anyone own a CC long bed HD that can share photos? Would love to see one leveled. I am debating on ordering a lwb. I’ve had short bed 3/4 Ton trucks and currently a 1 ton srw short bed now. It’s been 8-9 years since I had a long bed, but I recall that it rode better unloaded.
  2. I would agree with points made in rdwngr’s post above-specifically on fuel mileage. The last two 6.0 trucks I owned would regularly get (hand calculated) an avg of 11-11.5mpg per tank. This is a leveled crew cab 4wd on 35’s. My current ‘19 duramax set up identically averages 15.5-16.5 per tank....same conditions/commute/driving style. I have no idea if the 6.6 gas would do better on fuel than the 6.0’s I referenced above, set up the same way. So far, no one has provided evidence that I’ve seen to say it would be any better. Without yet driving a 6.6 gas, it is hard for me to believe that (With a 3.73 rear/6sp) it is night and day different than my previous 6.0 with 4.10/6sp. My preference for drivability Goes to the duramax.
  3. This post is spot on. Based on my experiences with 6.0 in the past, I wouldn’t have second thoughts about it (or the 6.6 gas) in terms of keeping it long term with little to no issues. I traded a 6.0 in on my current 19 Duramax about a year ago. Absolutely love the truck. But at that time, I knew it would be a truck I’d drive for 2-3yrs tops before moving on to something else. Reason being, as samuse said above, they aren’t proven as long term reliable vehicles, mainly due to the ridiculous DPF/emissions nonsense that they are now required to have. They are very expensive to repair outside of warranty. They are more expensive to own/maintain while under warranty, mainly for people like me who don’t do their own oil and fuel filter changes. But the real added expense that you see weekly is in fuel. $20-$25 more per fill up on the dmax due to fuel price differences, but I can go an additional 100-150 miles on a tank than on the same truck I had prior with a 6.0, so you have to consider that as well. As was stated before, it is very difficult to financial justify the added upfront cost and fuel/maintenance costs in the diesel compared to gas, unless you tow heavy on a frequent basis. The justification for most doesn’t work in terms of dollars, but it does for a lot people in terms of driving experience.
  4. Good points-I agree. I’m paying 50% more per gallon for diesel here where I live. For me and the majority of people I know who own a duramax, it came down to a “want” more than a need for towing purposes. Some put a higher value on the options (LT or higher) at the lowest possible cost upfront and over the long term (maintenance of gas vs diesel)....if so then a 6.6 gas is the way to go, no question. Others place a higher value on the daily driving feel/experience of a 6.6 duramax, and are willing to sacrifice options if necessary to get it, if trying to fall within a certain budget. I will never hook anything to my truck that would be at or over capacity for the same truck with a gas powered engine. It is however more enjoyable to drive and tow (my opinion only) with the diesel. The gas will do the job just fine, it will just be doing it (at times) at a much higher RPM.
  5. Good question-I can’t offer any insight into the 6.6 gas because they are hard to find around me. Dealers don’t order many and the ones they do seem to be gone fast. I haven’t yet driven one. I am very interested in trying one out and have read all I can find on here about peoples experiences with them so far. But, a WT with the duramax can be had for essentially the same price as a custom with the gas engine. Personally I’d opt for the less optioned truck with the diesel regardless of how much I tow, but especially if I were towing 9000 lbs into the mountains. I’ve got a 19 duramax now, so admittedly I’m biased towards the effortless torque and towing ability that comes with it, but I have had two 6.0’s in the past......in terms of towing experience and all around daily driving, there is no comparison (just my opinion), duramax wins hands down. Some don’t like the exterior looks of the WT, but I like the black grille on them, especially with white and red-I think the contrast looks good but looks are subjective.
  6. Agreed. I’ve owned 6.0’s in the past, so I’m familiar with the consequences in that engine. Would still like to get feedback from anyone who has gone with larger than stock tire sizes on one of the gas burners
  7. Thanks for the info. Your truck looks awesome
  8. That’s good to hear. Your truck (LT) and this setup is what I’m looking to do when I get my 2021. do you have any idea how bad your buddy’s mpg is on his 6.6 gas with the 295s?
  9. Bryant87-your truck looks fantastic on the 37’s! First one I’ve seen with factory 18’s and a larger than stock tire. I assumed the 11.50 would rub less than a 12.50 on factory wheels but I haven’t seen either setup up close to verify. Either way, well done. How does it ride and drive compared to stock?
  10. Thanks. Yea I’ve looked at a lot of mpg threads and have yet to see anyone mention the 6.6 gas is at relates to larger than stock tires. But being that my current duramax and every other truck I’ve ever owned had larger tires (usually 35’s in tread patterns from mild to full on mud tires), I am most certainly aware that it has an impact to a degree. Just wanted to see if anyone had first hand experience with the new engine.
  11. I can confirm that the bolt pattern is the same and that the 275/65-20 does fit the 15-19 HD’s. My friend put a set of high country 20” wheels And factory tires off of a 2020 HD on his 2019 with zero issues.
  12. Is anyone running larger than stock tires on a new 6.6 gas 2500 or 3500? Interested in learning about what kind of hit your mpg took if so, and would love to hear any feedback on your setup.
  13. Turning up stock keys vs installing new ones: 1. available stock key adjustment left from factory varies by truck, depending on how much more height you want out of the front end. The dealer leveled mine from day one with new keys and shock spacers 2. This work by the dealer resulted in an unpleasant ride over any bumps, road imperfections, etc due to the fact that the upper Control arms had far less clearance now over the frame stops. Raising the front also put my front diff, and as a result, cv’s at a bad or “bound up” angle. I fixed the issues above with aftermarket upper control arms (CCM motorsports) and a front diff drop spacers (CCM motorsports). The addition of the aftermarket UCA’s and diff spacers dramatically improved the ride, no question. If I were going to keep my truck much longer I’d go ahead and add some Bilstein shocks on all 4 corners as well to additionally improve the ride. Leveling with keys (or factory keys), shock spacers, adding the new UCA’s and diff drop are to me the bare minimum items needed to level it with minimal to no impact on the stock ride quality. All info above was done on a 2017 crew 4wd, FYI. Only thing I’d do different is get some tubular UCA’s instead of the boxed ones that CCM/cognito/kryptonite sell.....so that my 295/70-18’s on factory wheels wouldn’t rub on the upper control arms as bad as they do now. It’s become pretty annoying.
  14. Wow, not good. Not the first post I’ve read regarding the same sort of vibration on the new 1500 with DFM. Is this issue only in relation to the 8sp and 5.3 DFM combo? The reason I ask is because you stated the 6.2 with 10sp is a huge difference, although I know the 6.2 has DFM also.
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