sourdough44

I’d be a little suspect of other issues contributing to the stabilitrac message & codes. I posted my results on a nearby thread about a ‘electronic brake control module’. There has been recalls on various models over recent years. The ‘wheel spin sensors’ at times are mentioned. The issue with my EBCM was traced to a weak vacuum pump, another frequent problem that could eventually give stabilitrac codes. My main braking problem was low speed, low engine rpm. In my experience, a ‘stabilitrac’ message or code is just an indication of erroneous input, not the stabilitrac itself.

I thought most were under the dash, driver’s seat area. Like most it can vary over the years & with models.

Back earlier from the dealership, very satisfied. The issue was a weak output from the vacuum pump, they put in a new pump & corresponding belt. This is an issue that has come up among many with a search. It took a full 1.5 hours, parts in stock. I haven’t had time for a code check yet, the brakes work perfectly at the slow speeds, engine at idle. That vacuum pump looks a bit hard to get at. There was no cost to me. It’s kinda like an ‘on demand’ recall, with no open recalls on this truck currently.

I do think is a controller for the regular brakes, not a trailer brake controller. I took a few scans, don’t know what ones had engine off with just ignition to run. The only other code was also under the same title of ‘EBCM’. That code is, U0073-00, says ‘control module communication bus A off’. I’ll put an update in once back from the dealership.

My brakes have been acting up at slow speeds, 2017 Silverado, 71k miles, 5.3 engine. I have a good code-reader, shows ‘Electronic Brake Control Module’, C0800-5A . I see the history with vacuum pumps, braking issues & brake controllers. I’m taking it to the dealer tomorrow afternoon for evaluation. I don’t want it to become more of a safety issue. I’m a mid-grade wrencher, maybe slightly below that. I’m looking for advice before I take it in. There may of been a recall already on this, none open now. There seems to be history with these braking issues, had similar on an older truck. Anything I should print off & take with me? Thanks.

Sorry just a bit dated on this thread, but like related. I have a 2017 Silverado, 71k miles, well cared for. My brakes have been acting up at low speeds, last 4+ weeks or so. I have a good code reader, shows ‘Electronic Brake Control Module’, code C0800-5A. This truck doesn’t currently have any recalls active. I have an appointment tomorrow afternoon, I don’t plan to throw the checkbook at the issue. I think it should of been taken care of.

I'm usually a Stihl guy, but when it comes to trimmers I go with Echo. I have a modest level commercial type, like it much better than my last Stihl. I don't know much about the other type you mention.

I plan to look into this today, locking the flapper open. Thanks for the tips.

Thanks, maybe I'll just put the book quantity in and not worry about it much. The oil stick does seem flimsy though.

No matter what the dipstick reads 'over filled' when I do a complete drain then put in the required amount of oil listed in the manual. The dipstick is flimsy too. I had looked earlier, never saw any good replacements for the factory dipstick. That was a few years ago, any ideas of a better dipstick that works? I would prefer thicker metal, flat, easy to read. Does anyone else see this as an issue? Thanks. OBTW, This is a 2017 Silverado, 5.3 liter engine.

I'm sure this recall includes my 2014. I think it's also what I had a problem with a few months ago.

I'll keep that in mind. I haven't had the problem recur in the 2+ weeks since I 1st became aware. I'm hoping the problem is gone.

The detailed diagnostics showed an abnormal 'short term fuel trim', to the tune of a positive 25+ on the reading. It always happened when coasting with the foot off the gas, which is the same as when it stalled out. It was a fair amount hotter out that day too. The net seems to point to a 'vacuum leak' as a possible cause. Anyway, just starting down this road now. The above seems to be more of a dead end, not much of an issue after a second look. Since it hasn't happened again I'll just leave things be for further evaluation.

My Son is coming home with a better code reader tomorrow, it can also monitor a good number of parameters while driving. No check engine light yet. I put in a new air filter, needed one, cleaned the MAF sensor, then checked that P218 ground on the dash. The ground looked very tight without interfering insulation as posted on the video. I checked it and it should be fine as is. I did see other grounds can be in question, the negative off the battery mentioned. I went for a shorter ride today, trying to duplicate conditions when it happened. So far there is no recurrence, though it was a relatively short ride.

Thanks. No idea about the fuel pressure. Yes, the steering wheel does try to buck a little bit. This is a very new problem, but seems to be something that won't go away on it's own. I did hear about grounding issues. I will look into that ground issue. If one is 'bad' can you just tighten it up or is a new cable/wire required? I'll look for the thread. The above is a good video on the P218 grounding wire. I think my truck NEEDS this check.

This just started two days ago, happened 3 times so far. The truck has 45k miles, pretty much babied. It stalls out when idling into a tight turn, like a parking lot or space. It hasn't always cut totally off. Usually the 'Stability Trac' light comes on with the failure. I see mention of a ground possibly loose? How hard to find besides the one from the battery? Is the MAF sensor possibly contributing? Any other ideas? I'd like to try a few things before running to the dealer. Thanks.

Bad is all I can say, 10 or a bit less towing a high profile, enclosed trailer with an ATV inside. This is with a 'double-cab' 1500 with a 5.3 liter.

Great pictures Desert, thanks.

It may depend on particulars, length if grade, trailer weight, temp, driving technique and the rest. Did you turn the A/C off before the grade? I'd also take it easy on the gas pedal. There may be add-ons you could get to help with cooling. In general, a more heavy weight truck can handle adverse conditions better, 2500 HD as an example.

Why the picture of the shift panel? I'm sure I missed whatever it's about.

I got a horrendous load of bear bait today with my 1500 and a trailer. It was 12 barrels, 4 cherries and 8 chocolate candy barrels. The cherries were very heavy, the chocolate moderately heavy. I just drove about 10 miles home and will reduce the load before I drive North. It's hard to set up a time with the candy factory, so I just wanted to get them home for later. In the past I got as much as 16 barrels in one load with my previous 2500 HD, trailer included. The truck handled the load pretty good, but I wouldn't want to stress the trailer on a longer tow. Of course I had to make sure the 'bait' was fit for bruin consumption, tasted great.

Mya is only 5 months old, but she takes her duties very seriously.

I plan on letting the factory protection go a while(year or 2), then doing something myself. I may just use some black POR-15, or other preventative. I think you are better giving it a touch up every few years than thinking there is one best type of long term protection. The factory rubbery stuff is at least a step in the right direction.

I switched from a 2003 6.0 gas 2500 to the 2014 5.3. Rough numbers with just a 5 mpg improvement show a $1,000 annual fuel savings with 15,000 miles a year. I will most likely have less miles though as we drive our other cars more.