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About MNDakota

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  1. I thought these fasteners were part # 11610700, which you can't find anywhere. Hopefully these 11547581 parts work!
  2. Not sure how I feel about these yet, but I wanted to try something so I ordered a set of 71-72 C/10 "8 400" badges. I cut the studs off the back, filled with epoxy and used 3M double sided tape to stick onto the molding. Could have just used the studs but didn't want to drill holes in case I end up not liking these. GM Part #3980000-400. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1972/chevrolet/truck/parts/cm9617.html
  3. From what I can tell, the housings and lenses are identical. Pretty sure the part numbers for the bare moldings we're the same. I'm keeping the old headlights for now in case the refurbished lenses fog up (although good halogen headlights are going for more than I paid for the LED's on eBay). If they do fog up, my plan is to swap the internals to the halogen housings. I just didn't want to mess with them too much yet.
  4. Swapped out the halogen headlight/housings for LEDs I bought wrecked off eBay. JB welded the housings back together, polished the scratches out of the lenses and now, from the outside, they look like new. I also used the Gen5DIY harness to make it simple.
  5. 6.6 Gas I picked up this fall. I was looking real hard at 2019+ Ram 2500's with the 6.4/8speed but wanted to keep Autotrac for when my wife drives it in the winter. So far I'm happy with the towing and braking performance, especially compared to the 2008 1500 5.3/4speed I had.
  6. I swapped a V8 TB onto my V6 Dakota before. Idled high on first start up and ran kind of boggy at first, then after about 200 miles it had "recalibrated" and ran much better. Looks like I'll be doing another TB swap in the future....
  7. That actually bring up another issue I have with this product review. I've never seen a truly unbiased review when the review is conducted by the staff/admin and the product is supplied by a supporting vender. Can't bite the hand that feeds..
  8. 1994 XLT would be the 579cc fugi engine, they were a bit prone to crank failure if you put pipes on them and ran them at high RPM from what I can recall. DO NOT run fuel with ethanol, ever. It was cause all sorts of havoc on a snowmobile, let alone a 2-stroke engine. Secondary clutch; if it can wiggle axially along the jackshaft it is fine, just take a 1/2 wrench (hold the brake down) and make sure the bolt is tight. That little bit of slop is to let the clutch "float" and align itself. "white stuff on plug": white goo on the plugs is usually a sign of a coolant leak into the cylinder. While it's cold, pull the cap off of the coolant bottle. Start the engine, if you see bubbles (or a geyser) you have either a base gasket or head O-ring leak. If you’re looking to do some reading you may find some info here: http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/314-trail-classic-xlt/ If you’re looking to bullshit about sleds while trying to find info, looks here: http://slednutz.com/
  9. You're evaluating this product based on a 30 mile loop? A device claiming to increase fuel mileage by marginally increasing the time that the vehicle stays in V4 mode will most likely show few to no results in 30 miles. What variability in terrain do you have in your 'test course' ? This should not be a short back to back comparison, but instead a long term test. Run the unit for the month of June and without for July, then compare results. June and July fuel blends and ambient condition would be about the same, as long as you are observant of your driving habits you can try to zero yourself out of the equation. I for one, would like to see The Range post actual MPG increases per tested vehicle stats and terrain. The responses posted prior of % increases are not terribly helpful. ie if you're only getting 10MPG to start with, a 10% increase is only 1MPG.
  10. Anyone have pics of the chevy 20's powdercoated black?
  11. 2008 crew cab 5.3 W/AFM 4 speed 3.73 2" lift (front/rear) stock Bridgestone Duellers 275/55/R20 Avg MPG: 16 Highest MPG: 18 Lowest MPG: 13 (E-85)
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