Dirtbiker

I just put Fuel Flow 18x9 with +20 offset and 275/70/R18 tires. So that is 33.2 x11 size. I leveled the truck 2 inches and have factory plastic mudflaps. If I had the typical rubber 1/4 in thick mudflaps they would rub. Right now I have zero rubbing and I think even without the torsion bars cranked up it would be ok. But any bigger will rub.

They told me it is 0.8 hours to diagnose then whatever to do the update. So if you are correct ( I am guessing you are ) then it will be $150 to $200 just to update a radio. In less than 2.5 years the rear end leaked, new headlights because of moisture, 2 new O2 sensors, new left front hub, new radiator, fixed air conditioning, leaking onstar antenna and now my seat is moving which won't be warranty either now. Plus this radio thing. I am tired of going to the dealer once a month for repairs. My 2010 cost me $8000 before it hit 185,000 km and then they told me it needed a motor too. I take excellent care of my vehicles and this truck has cost me $2500 already to fix. It seems to that either I get all the bad ones or GM just over charges for their new shittier-every-year trucks. I have never liked Dodge or Ford but I get $22,000 off the price of a new Dodge through work which is $13,000 less than the fleet price on a comparable Gm. For that much money I have to try one. Even if it needs some repairs I should still be ahead in three years. Sadly I am going to switch.

I have the same problem. Screen went blank. No radio control other than steering wheel controls. Took it to the dealer for an update but was informed that because I am at 110,000 km I will have to pay for updating as I am off warranty. If I have to pay for a repair on this truck ( the list is starting to get very long) I am replacing the radio with a Dodge truck. I have had two Gm lemons in a row and I am tired of paying more for shitty quality

My half ton is two years old and the onstar antenna started leaking. I am careful not to hit it with anything. When it is off warranty it is about $520 in Canada to fix it. They are held on by plastic clips " that just fail sometimes" Next time I will fix it for $5 with a tube of silicone. The good news is the water marks came out with some hand cleaning clothes that I get from Acklands.

Thank you. Since these pictures I ended up adding bushwacker fender flares. The smooth style. I prefer the look of the truck without them but because the lift kit pushes each wheel out 1.5 inches and the wheel offset needed by their recommendations pushes the rim out another inch over stock, I got tired of the mud and road grime all over my mirrors and windows. Every time it rained or in the spring and fall with the slush I couldn't see out the mirrors. I also added gatorback mud flaps and the 32 inch tires rub slightly on the left side when backing up and turning. 33's would have rubbed badly. I like the ride of the truck though. I can't seem to post pictures on this site anymore as they are all too big now sorry.

I got in my truck to drive to work yesterday and the driver side pillar and one spot under the onstar antenna were wet. Turns out the onstar antenna is secured by plastic clips from the bottom that can not be adjusted. They "sometimes come loose" breaking the gasket seal. In order to fix the leak it is a new antenna. $130. 1.5 hours to put it in, time to diagnose, all in $530. Now in two years I have paid $2500 to fix stupid shit on this truck. I asked if GM is updating this design to something better. Nope. They only see a few with this issue. And I get to pay for it so why would they? Next time I will be siliconing it. Actually next time I will replace it with a Dodge antenna I think. Two lemons in a row out of five GM trucks is not a good ratio. May as well try something different.

I thought I would share my experience to help anyone trying to decide what to do. I read through many pages in here. I didn't really need new exhuast but after hearing a co workers power wagon with new exhuast, I decide I would. At first the shop put in a Magnaflow 14 inch muffler and cut out the factory muffler and third cat. He also welded the flapper open so I could drive it and see what I wanted to do. I actually couldn't hear much of a difference. A slight drone in 4 cylinder mode but it wasn't really that bad. I wanted a better sound so I decided to have them cut out the resonator ( but still leave the flapper in welded open just in case I needed it). It got much louder after that. Now when you start it, you know it is running. It is actually hard to hear any difference when it switches from v8 to v4 but there is a constant louder noise when driving down the highway. It is louder in the top gear then it is when it shifts to 5th actually. It is very noticable for sure. I think I wanted an exhuast sound somewhere in between these to choices so maybe an 18 inch muffler would have been better. It cost me $500 for this here in Alberta and I have a 2014 ccsb with the 5.3. It does sound very nice when driving in town and putting your foot into it. Just a little loud in the cab when cruising at highway speeds. V8 or v4 sound the same now I find, both loud ha ha. I will live with it now seeing as I paid for it. Just wanted to let everyone know that the resonator in the back makes a huge difference in the volume. My milage is going to get worse I am thinking due to stepping on it a little harder all the time to hear the rumble

They are XD series rockstar 2 rims. Look like 20 x about 10 with a heavy offset . Tires are a mud tire and probably 35's x 12.5 as they don't bulge much past the edge of the rims. I could be wrong but that is what it looks like to me. Looks like a six inch lift too.

With 18 inch rims ( my preference as I like a little more sidewall and cheaper tires) I had to have zero offset with the BDS lift. 33's would probably fit but will be very close to rubbing on the mudflaps I may test fit them for the next set of tires but I will probably stay with 32's to be sure. I absolutely hate any rubbing.

As far as size wise, I have a BDS 4 inch lift and 32 inch duratracs which are very close to stock diameter. I absolutely hate rubbing so that is why I picked this size. I would like to go bigger but I actually go offroad and don't want rubbing when turning in rough areas. Here is a picture so you can compare size. Rims aren't stock though.

They are bushwacker. Painted to match. They add 1 1/4 inches

Pics in here a long time ago but added fender flares and new mud flaps while the body shop replaced the front end.

I lost 4.5 mpg when I put a 4 inch lift on with 32 inch tires

Posted pictures of my truck before but just put new fender flares on as I am tired of mud on the mirrors, hood and windows. This truck has a 4 inch BDS lift.

The lift pushes the front wheels out 1.5 inches

4 inch BDS lift

Just go on the BDS website they tell you what offset you need.

They are Moto Metals. Forget the model number though. I like the dunes but they only come in twenty inch. I really like the look of these rims the only thing is the valve stem is located in the middle of the wheel meaning special air chucks and tire gauges .

18 x 9 rims with zero offset. BDS 4 inch lift. 275 65 R18 durotrac tires. No rubbing and lots of room actually. I think 33's wouldn't rub either.

I get about 16 l/100 km average with 32 inch tires. That is only over 12,000. Km so far with lots of warm up time in the winter. Getting about 14 l/100 km on highway.

The ride is ok. Like I said, I haven't driven a stock truck so I can't compare. I also run 41 psi in my tires so that I don't ever worry about potholes or rocks wrecking the rims and That makes it slightly rougher. I didn't get the better shocks, just the BDS ones that come in the basic kit. With all the questions on ride, I may have to go drive a stock one to see ha ha ha.

You bet. I researched things for two months and got a lot of help from this site before buying my truck and lift kit. Like I said the guys at BDS were great on the phone when I called with questions.

I suggest calling them and asking. I have never had a lift kit before so I don't know what the options are. I just bought rims that were what they suggested.

I should also note that I phoned BDS a few times to ask questions when making my decision and they were awesome to deal with and their warranty is the best in the industry. It is one sentence: you break it, we replace it. That is all not six pages fine print crap. I have a friend that has used this warranty after his customer jumped his truck and broke a part. They didn't care, they just sent a new one and I believe he said they beefed up the new ones. I bought this kit because it lowers everything properly. I looked into Fabtech but it is a glorified level kit and may be ok but with the amount of miles I put on in a year I don't want to be replacing worn out parts due to increased angles. No one could tell me on these new trucks how that kit would work out as everything is new. But I was told a proper lift kit like BDS would be better for me.

You can not run stock rims. BDS suggests 4.5 inches of backspacing with 18 inch rims which is 0 offset factory rims are +30 offset I believe. They suggest something different for 20's I believe. The lift kit also pushes the front tires out an additional 1.5 inches so they do stick out quite a bit. I am still debating fender flares. I don't want them but mud in the door handles gets annoying. For now I have a rag in each door to wipe my hands ha ha. The tires are 275 65 r18 not sure what stock was but they are slightly bigger than stock I believe. They are basically 32 x 10.8 and there is a ton of room anywhere. I would think 33 x 12.5 shouldnt be a problem. As for the ride, I have never driven a stock 2014. I drove the dealership's owner's truck which had a fabtech lift and then I drove mine only after it was done. So I don't know how it compares. I do know it rides as good or better than my 2010 with a readylift level kit. I don't know if it is the new design or the lift kit but I have noticed that it doesn't really lean in corners. It stays almost flat. I don't have a part number. The dealership ordered it. But it was the basic 4 inch lift kit for a crew cab with aluminum control arms. The only choices are steel or aluminum arms and if you want the upgraded struts and shocks. Hope this all helps. Here is another angle