They used to be formed to deflect the bugs over the cab instead of hitting the windshield. Now i think they are mainly to protect the hood from rocks damaging the paint. The old ones used to also cause issues with the wipers not working well due to the aerodynamic change. I now just get the clear 3M coating on the hood and fenders( I used to by hood deflectors for all my trucks).
If I could buy an old style 1999 brand new right now rather than the new ones I would for sure! Way less garbage to quit working. A 350 with no engine management systems, no stabilicrap, so much better!
I have been thinking of trading my truck in for a new one. Reading about this issue ( and others like water leaks, etc.) worries me. I don't even like stabilicrap on my truck. Someone asked why wouldn’t you use it all the time. Well as a person that has had their emergency brakes freeze on ( literally freeze after moisture got in during the winter and I had the parking brakes set ) I never set them again when I parked in the winter. It is sad that GM has to have a computer set the brake automatically because people aren't smart enough to set it once in awhile even if they don't need to in order to keep it working. I have been doing this for as long as I can remember. maybe I should just keep my 2016 3/4 ton a few more years
Fuse #3 under the hood. Disables antilock but also disables stabilicrap permanently. Just push the button when you start the truck to turn off traction control. Then learn to brake like we did before all these computers.
I have 275 70 R18 on fuel 18 x 9 with +18mm offset. There are zero issues with fitment. No rubbing at all . Tires line up even with the fenders basically. I do have the factory plastic mudflaps though not thick rubber ones. Most aftermarket wheels will not be close to the factory offset. No issues with wear either. I have gas engine and run Duratrac tires and for some reason the back and front tires wear almost dead even without even rotating them. Diesel trucks are probably different though as the front end would be heavier.
That I do not know. I removed a fuse to disable all of it as it took over from me in a skid on ice once and put my truck in the ditch. I learned to drive long before all this computer garbage and it doesn’t really work in snow and ice all that well.
There are two systems. Traction control detunes the motor when the rear wheels start spinning. Stabilitrac uses the antilock brake system to work the brakes when the vehicle is skidding. Sometimes the stabilitrac system will malfunction and come on when turning and that produces a grinding noise due to the antilock brakes engaging. Pushing the traction control button turns off traction control, holding it down for 5 seconds also turns off stabilicrap. Until 56 km per hour, then it automatically comes back on since 2014.
I have had many sets of these. I like them. They are good in mud ( had set of Nitto all terrains once thet were garbage) not as noisy as a mud tire ( but a little louder than highway tires for sure) and decent in snow. With running them at 60 psi they ride rougher than the factory tires for sure. I got 90,000 km out of my last set and probably could have gone a little longer. That is with pulling a trailer about twice a month ( holiday trailer or skid steer type of thing) for a couple hundred km each trip. They last longer I found than th BFG AT KO. Never tried the KO2's though.
I had a very similar problem with our old dodge minivan. After a year of trying to solve the problem with 5 dealerships it turned out to be the whole ignition piece that the key fit into. Completely different vehicle i realize but it sounds like the exact same symptoms. Like turning the key off. Maybe some where to start looking anyway....
So I just got my truck back. At 134,000 km the nut backed off and my steering got loose. $400.00 to lock tight a bolt seems a little steep..... But steering is back to normal again. Hope it stays tight from now on.
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