robsieb

I've looked high and low for a part number for the 2022 AT4 console lid with the recess but without success. I can find 2022 Limited armrests but not the refresh. Anyone here have access to GM's internal parts lists?

Just returned from the dealer after having a similar problem on my 2019 AT4. Mine is\was a bit different in that I had noticed it doing a hard misfire (not recorded in ODB) at stop lights. Putting it in gear, holding the brake and running the RPM's up to 1,000 and it started having a very noticeable missing. Five minutes later I got a check engine light. Connected my reader and found code P1005. Took it to the dealer and they cleared the code per PIT5636 (which came out in October of 2018 and there is not yet a fix) and sent me out the door saying if a fix came in they would call. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10147375-9999.pdf Now granted this just started on this truck but no fix since October 2018? I don't know about the rest of you but I'm not going to accept a 65K sticker price AND an engine that has a profound miss. If any of the GM folks who watch this forum have any advise on how I can go about getting this corrected it would be greatly appreciated.

Yep, same issue here. I was beginning to think it was just mine.

Removed the factory steps and added a set of N-Fab Podiums.

I'm on my forth new GMC (plus my wife had a 2015 Yukon) since 2010 and I'm just about sick of GM's cheap tactics. The current 2019 AT4 I have had s sticker price 11K over my 2016 All Terrain and they've removed the adjustable peddles, sun glasses holder, adjustable seatbelts, storage compartment in the front doors, the OH Sh!t handles and turning signals in the mirrors. Granted, they have added a HUD, heated rear seats and rear A/C vents but really? 11K more then nickel and dime me on remote start on an app? What gives GM, are you really hurting that bad that you can't throw this small perk in for more than a month? What a kick in the nuts!!!

I too think the aluminum look looks cheap on my AT4 and prefer the look of the rubberized ones the Silverados have. I pulled out the left side panel which has the headlight and transfer case controls and got the part numbers off to check prices and found one for $38 and the other for $31 online. I have not pulled the center stack yet to get the numbers off of the radio and climate switch so I don't know the costs of those but then again I have no way to cross reference the numbers with the corresponding ones used on the Silverado. Give the prices of the others I can't the center stack controls costing more that a total of $200 so I'm guessing for $200 - $300 you could swap them out if you just had the cross reference info.

These look great and I want a set for my AT4. Where did you find them? I can't find anyone with them in stock and N-Fab has them listed as out of stock until June.

My wife noticed a rattle in the rear of my 2019 (I can't hear crap anymore lol) and I had her get back there and listen closer. Come to find out the rear headrests are rattling slightly. Seems the posts are slightly smaller than the opening in the plastic grommet causing them to rattle a bit at lower speeds and driving over fairly small bumps like driving through a parking lot. Haven't yet figured out how to quiet them but was thinking of wrapping some electrical tape around them to see if that helps.

I've had both a 2014 and 2016 All Terrain in black and really liked the 2019 AT4 in black but after two in a row I needed a change. I really wished they would offer the AT4 in the bright red but it was apparent they were never going to do it (although they do make the Elevation in that color). Haven't had a chance to shoot many more pics but here are a couple more.

Picked it up over the weekend.

I believe I might have figured out a work around on this. I disabled the "Change with Buttons" option on the iPhone under Settings-Sounds & Haptics and tested it and the ringer volume remained where I had set it.

Just picked up an AT4 this weekend and have been working through the learning process on the various "systems" on this new generation. One thing I've noticed and was wondering if anyone had experienced and if so how it might be resolved is when an iPhone is connected via bluetooth it seems the infotainment system changes the ringer volume on the iPhone. At first I though I might have turned it down but I've verified it a couple of times by starting the truck, having bluetooth connect then shut the truck off, get out and check my ringer volume. Sure enough it drops down to the last two or three bars on indicator on the iPhone. The other thing I noticed is that when you have it connected via BT and have the music app open, when you change the volume in the truck the volume indicator on the phone goes up and down. I never had this issue with my 14 or 16 All Terrains and if in-fact I'm not crazy I believe this is going to be a bit problematic for folks who experience the same and end up missing phone calls, texts and emails (at least the ones who rely on an audible indication from their phones). Anyone else seeing the same?

Tried it on my 2016 Sierra and no luck with my iPhone X. Wish I had access to an Android or anything else other than an iPhone. I’m starting to think the module I have may not be working but have no way to back that up.

Same issue here with my 2014 Sierra and our 2015 Yukon. Thanks to the previous posters for the tips. I'll give em a try.

Bre Yes, window molding. Sorry about the confusion. Purchased mine at Genuinegm.com. Shipping from them is usually cheaper than from gmpartsdirect.com. Part numbers below: Black Window Moldings Frt Right 20964063 Frt Left 20964064 Rear Right 20963927 Rear Left 20963928 I found the mirror caps and handles on Ebay from this seller: http://www.ebay.com/usr/ntftakeoffs The 2014 stuff seems to get sold pretty quickly so you have to keep an eye on it daily.

I ordered factory black steps and window mouldings online. Purchased take-off door handles and mirror caps off of Ebay and then sold my chrome parts on Craigslist. Ended up $150.00 out of pocket when all was said and done and have all factory painted or new parts. No plasti-dip here. Mirror caps are almost impossible to remove without breaking the clips that hold them on but obviously some have figured out how to do it since the ones I got off Ebay were perfect. Door handles take about 5 min. each after you do the first one. Tricky part to them is getting the fork inside the door to engage with the handle but it's easy after you do the first one. Some suggest using fishing line but I used a 90 degree pick and it worked just fine. Removal of the handles is simple. One torx screw behind a plastic cap on the jamb part of the door above the latch. Just don't remove the screws on the rear doors all the way. I've heard the nut plate backing them up can fall into the door if you do. Front ones are ok to remove all the way. Door mouldings are very easy to remove and replace as well. Front doors have a torx screw at the rear of the moulding inside the door. With the window down there are four white plastic clips that hold the moulding to the door. All you have to do is pull them slighly towards the inside of the car using a small pick and they wiil release. You can then slide the front mouldings rearward about a 1/4 of an inch so they pull out of the mirror housing. Rear doors are similar in that they have a torx screw but its on the forward part of the door and are hidden behind a piece of the rubber door seal. Releasing the white clips is the same as on the front doors. Hope this makes sense and helps out as I totally suck at write-ups.

Finally had the chance to finish the de-chroming. Mirror caps, steps, door handles, door side and window moldings. Not sure if I will keep the AT emblem or pull it too. Also still haven't decided if I'll get the paint to match door molding and put them back on or not. I was leaning toward leaving it off but then noticed someone didn't like the fact of a new vehicle in the parking garage and just had to break it in with a ding just in front of the front passenger door on the fender. I know the moldings wouldn't have saved it but pisses me off just the same.

Working on de-chroming my A/T and at the same time finding it's hard to shoot good pictures of a black vehicle in bright light. Purchased the factory take-off mirror caps and door handles off of Ebay and put them on yesterday. Factory 6in black steps and window molding should be here next Tuesday. Still not sure if I'm going to just remove the chrome side molding or if I'll bite the bullet and purchase the paintable replacements and have a shop shoot them with Onyx Black.