Did you decide one which you were going to do ?? I like the looks of mine with 1”, but for some reason over the last week or two, I’ve found myself wondering if I would like 1.25” better.....
I am running 295/55/20 Toyo Open Country AT 2 Extreme tires. It does not rub anything at all.. I was rubbing inside at full lock before adapters, but not now. I will going with a true 33x12.50 or 305/55/20's next time around on tires. Looking at the space inside now either one should fit fine with no rubbing at all either. I've had my hesitations on adapters as well. I stay nervous with them on even though I've had nothing but good experiences in the past. I had a set of 1.5" adapters on the rear of my 2006 2500HD Diesel, that were not even hub centric. Had them on for about 5 years with no problems at all and I use to tow quit heavy with it. They were still on there when I sold the truck. Had them on because front track width on 2500's use to come from the factory 3" wider than the rear (overall, 1.5" each side), so I wanted the rear to track the same as the front. I'm not going to praise the longevity of these yet since I've only put about 50 miles on them. I'll do days without even driving my truck due to having a company car, but every where me and the family go is in my truck. Then this summer I will be towing a boat with it, and occasionally I will tow my compact tractor with it, so I'll be able to give a good evaluation over the next year with them. Thanks for the compliments too. I'm very pleased with the appearance of the truck now. Final debate is Towing mirrors. Love the look of them. But that will come later.....maybe.
Shot down the front Down the back Wider Angle Front Shot Wider Angle Shot from Rear Quarter My reason for posting this is because I've seen the question asked several times if 1" would work or not and it seems I am the only one (at least that I could find) that was willing to give it a shot and try. So at the very least, if you have the same factory wheels I do, 1" will work without trimming the factory studs. Don't know about other wheels, as you would have to measure the factory stud and pockets on the back side of your wheel to determine that. Thank.
BORA 1" hub centric wheel adapters installed and work, with NO trimming of the factory studs. To make a long story short, I put a 2.5" level on the truck with the larger rear block. Wanted a little more so I added a 2" body lift, for a total of 4.5" of life and couldn't be happier. Then I wanted to get the factory wheels pushed out just a little bit and after a TON of searching on here and other places, all I read was that you would have to trim the studs if you went with less than 1.5" wheel adapters. So I bought 1.5" hub centric adapters and put them on. Did not like quite how far they stuck out for my taste and set up. So I did away with those. I then measured the wheel stud length, and the pocket on the inside of the factory wheels. My 2014 SLT has the factory 20" chrome wheels with pockets on the back side that measure just a hair over 3/4" deep. Wheel studs were 1.5" long. So, I took the chance and bought a set of 1" BORA wheel adapters to see if they would work since I've not seen a single thread or any information stating they would.......WITHOUT having to cut the factory studs. And they DO. So for all of you that have wondered if 1" wheel adapters will work, I can speak from Personal Experience, as I just installed them on my 2014 SLT less than an hour ago and DID NOT have to trim the factory studs at all. So at least if you have the same factory wheels I do, they WILL Work. Pictures below provided. Factory wheel Hub prior to install. Bora 1" Wheel Adapter Adapter measured for Proof of size Installed Installed with tape measure again. And as in picture above, here you can see the factory stud is still completely in-tack with the end nipple still attached. No Trimming. More coming below.....
For sale: 4 brand new 1.5” Hub Centric Wheel adapters. TrailSport4x4 brand. Bolt pattern is 6x5.5. They were for my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. 2 are still unopened and in plastic. I put 2 on the truck and literally drove it no where at all, then decided they stick out a little farther than I liked. Check out their website to see all the specs on them. They sell for $80/pair plus shipping. I’ll do $70 per pair plus shipping, or $130 for all 4 plus shipping. This is is a picture of them straight from their website. Email me at [email protected] if interested.
I’ve got 2 different Level and Body Lift Setups I’ll be posting. First couple of pictures are 2.5” Rough Country Level with Rear blocks, 2” Performance Accessories body lift on 295/55/20 Toyo Open Country AT 2 Extreme tires, factory wheels. Next Couple are same setup, plus 1.5” Hubcentric Wheel Adapters. I personally went with the 2” body lift because I already had a 2.5” Level on it and I was looking to have 4-5” of lift on the truck. The 2” body lift cost me $800 installed vs $2,500 for a 4 or 5” suspension lift to achieve the same look basically. Overall I am very happy with my setup. Sitting at 4.5” total lift over stock, I am right where I wanted to be with it. Still not settled on the 1.5” Wheel Adapters all the way around. I like it, but they may stick out a bit farther than I really want them to and I’m not 100% sure I trust them, especially on the front. I had them on my old 2006 2500HD Diesel on the rear and towed heavy with it, with no problems. Just still undecided. The Wife likes it better without them on. And for the record, with these factory wheels, I am 100% confident 1.25” Wheel Adapters would work......and about 90% sure 1” would work. These wheels have a pocket on the back side that is at or just over 1/2” deep. Studs are 1”. I may attempt 1” Adapters and see what happens.
I know the wheel Adapters topic has been beat to death. I currently have a 2.5” RC Level on my 2014 Sierra Z71, with the rear block installed. Also have 295/55/20 Toyo AT2 Extreme’s on stock 20” chrome SLT wheels. Having 2” body lift installed on December 1 for a total of 4.5” lift basically. I am am going to purchase hub centric wheel Adapters and according to my measurements, 1.25” Adapters will work without trimming any of the factory studs. I think 1” would actually work but I’m going to go 1.25” to be safe. Yes I took a wheel off, measured my factory studs and then measured the pockets on the back side of the wheel. My question is this.....does anyone have any experience with WheeladaptersUSA . Com ? I know Bora is a go to, trusted manufacturer. But at like $215 for 4 Bora’s vs $125 for 4 from wheeladaptersusa ..... if they are both Hub Centric and made the same, why wouldn’t I save basically $100 for the same thing ? So does anyone have any experience with this company ? Thanks.
Sorry to tell y'all, but I have yet to order the adapters. Had way too much going on and a few extra expenses that has prevented me from doing much extra. But Yes, I ran 1.5" on the rear of my 2006 2500 HD Diesel for years with no problems at all. And if I remember correctly I ordered them off Ebay. I just made sure they were hubcentric and quality made (from same material as BORA and others). I even pulled roughly 12,000 - 14,000 pounds several times per year with it and had no issues. That being said, my brother in law bought the exact same ones and pulled with it daily (farm 2500HD truck) and after about 4 or 5 years he had to replace a stud or 2 in the adapter. Other than that, no issues.
No responses needed asking why I want them or anything like that. I ran hub centric 1.5" adapters on the rear of my previous 2500HD. Towed heavy all the time with no problems. I now have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT, with the factory 20" SLT wheels. Running 295/55 Open Country tires. I've researched the heck out of it and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking. I'd like to run 1.25" adapters all the way around but I have found mixed answers on whether or not I would have to cut the factory studs if I run anything less than 1.5". I took a wheel off today and measured some things. The factory studs are 1 - 3/4" long. There is a recessed pocket on the factory wheels between all the stud holes that is 3/4" deep. Am I correct in my thinking that with the way adapters bolt up to the factory studs, then the adapters to the wheels, that the factor studs that are left sticking out of the adapters will line up with these pockets on the wheels ? Therefore, if the adapters are 1.25" thick, there would be 1/2" of factory stud sticking out or protruding from the adapter, which would sit inside the recessed pocket of the factory wheel........ which is 3/4" deep..... which means that there would still be 1/4" of space left. In other words, 1.25" adapters would work without me having to cut any of the factory studs. Can someone clarify if that us accurate thinking ? I saw a post from 2016 on gmfullsize where a guy with a 2014 SLT Sierra had 1.25" on the rear of his lifted truck, with factory wheels, but it was not said if he had to cut studs or not. Thanks.....and my aplogies for the redundancy of the question.
I like 35's. I was just going to stick with 305's for #1, reduce power loss a little bit but still get that wider tire look I like. #2... $$$ Cost $$$. I'll probably end up with 305's before the lift anyway. Looks like stock tires have probably 5-6k miles left on them and me and the family just bought 20 acres of land and getting ready to build a new house....so the lift will have to wait unfortunately. So, I'll probably still have the 305's when I get the 4", so I'll probably have a few miles to assess if I like that or want to step up to 35's. I would have thought 35's would kill the power in these things. And yes I have 5.3 with 3.42's. Thanks for your response. Your truck definitely set my 4" lift desire in stone.
Truck Looks Great man ! I definitely want a 4", but I only want to run 305's. And I actually like the look of the factory wheels on there. I'm thinking of running my factory wheels with 305's when I finally get it lifted. That's why I asked it the lift kicked the front wheels out some because I would actually prefer it to do that and then run spacers on the rear if I kept factory wheels. If I got aftermarket wheels then I would rather the lift maintain the same track width as factory. But your truck looks great. Good job on it. Do you have it tuned? How bad of a power loss feel did you get with the 35's ?
If you don't mind me asking..... what did that 4" BDS run you installed ? I want a 4" on mine bad! Looks Good. Does the BDS kick the front track width out wider than the rear? You got any pictures of it from the front looking down one side ??? Thanks.
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