punk007

That looks great. I'd like to know more details about it also.

Yep, I have a dual liner in the bed, and a low profile aluminum tool box, and inside the box is probably close to 100 pounds of tools/stuff. (And a full tank of gas when I measured! lol) So there is some added weight that is probably dropping my rear end a bit. It does seem like every truck sits at a different height though.

I installed my 2" RC level kit yesterday, it took me and a helper about 1.5 hours. I removed the wheels (and the lower strut bolts of course) and loosened the sway bar bolts only leaving about 2 threads holding it on. Those the only bolts I touched, I didn't loosen anything else. Managed to get the blocks in place by prying, tapping with a plastic hammer, and using a tapered punch to get all three holes lined up. My front wheel well height was 36 1/2" before, and now it is 38 5/8". Front is now 1/8" lower than the rear, so it worked out well. Getting some 33" tires put on later this week!

Stupid question, I got my RC 2 inch level kit in the mail yesterday, Instructions say one of the first steps is to remove the front skid plate and unplug 3 wire harnesses for the electric steering. Couldn't I make it easier and just skip those steps and disconnect the battery instead?

Early this morning before in started raining I managed to finish my foot-well lighting and install the drivers side A pillar grab handle.

Attempted to tint my front windows today. It was a miserable failure! I'm normally pretty handy, I'm blaming the cheap tint I bought. I need 50% tint to be legal and the only tint I could find for sale was some cheap no-name ebay crap. Three attempts and my last one still had several winkles, so I pulled it off. Tried to tint myself becasue Im in a pretty rural area and there is no pro tinting within at least 30 mile radius, have to go look further away I guess lol! But the day was not all lost, I added under hood LEDs with a contact switch today, here are some crappy cell phone pics. The engine bay would be a total black hole without the lights, looks better in real life than in the pics, plenty of light to have a "look see", or check fluids. Cost of this project was under 20 bucks, the two LEDS were $13, the switch was $5 for two, but you only need one. Some wire (10 feet maybe) and couple of crimp connectors I already had on hand. Switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251426403955?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 LED's: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281118567994?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Contact switch is mounted in the tab with the hole on the inner lip of the fender above the battery. The switch fit that location like it was made to. So no drilling needed, just sand a small amount of paint off around the hole to make a good ground contact.

Yes mine is 4x4. Silverado crew cab, standard bed 6'8", Z71, LT, 5.3L, 3.42 ratio, All Star pkg, no other options. It does sound like it's random.

pics please if you do this.

Steel on my crew cab Z71 standard bed also. Aluminum is part of the Z60 pkg as elcamino pointed out above.

I agree with MotoMedic, the video playback is really not worth it. The video is pixelated, the audio is out of sync, and as far as I can tell, you can't fast forward, rewind or pause. But I did get it work and I'll share what I know. I used a Transcend 32 GB class 10 SDHC flash memory card I got from Amazon, about 20 bucks. I used a program called "Handbrake" that you can download for free from Source Forge to convert and compress video files. For instance I ripped a DVD of "Battle: Los Angeles" with a program called Nero (not free, but you can find free DVD rippers with no trouble) Then I used Handbrake to convert those DVD files to it's "iPad" preset, this converts it to an MP4 file and shrinks it to less than one Gig.