jm77

I used rigid d2's but don't see why you couldn't use the XL. I actually thought about that when ordering everything but couldn't justify the price increase vs lumen increase. That's just based on the numbers as I couldn't find many reviews of the xl's. Let me know if you go that route and how you like them. Post some pictures too! And ha the Spod rocks.

Heres some quick shots to get an idea

Got impatient and went ahead with install. Used the door grommet which worked out perfect since I needed the cable to come out by the front drivers assist handle/pilar. Simply fished it through, removed the side cover on the dash and fed the wire up to the pilar. Install was very easy and came out really clean. Used some silicone to add some waterproof protection to the grommet I went through. Mounted the spod onto a bracket I made that mounts on the spare battery tray. Seems to be the best option in these trucks. The spod was a bit pricey but is easy to install and has a bunch of cool features. I have the option to dim or strobe my lights. I also have the ability to add 7 more lights by simply mounting them and plugging them into the spod, no need to fish more wires into the cab or add switches. I also didn't have to drill and holes for the switches which is a plus. Simply replace the rubber door grommet and everything would be as if I never modded the truck. Definitely a plus in my mind. Will post some pictures if people want them.

Just installed the T-Rex hood brackets and a set of Rigid D2 driving lights. Install was easy and fast and the brackets hold the lights securely. Definitely recommend them to anyone wanting to do the same. Question, I have a Spod controller with their new touch screen switch panel. In looking at my truck it seems its not going to be easy fishing a line through the main wire harness grommet in the engine bay. From the inside of the truck there is so much stuff in front of it I can't even get my hand behind to feel it. Any suggestions or help? It should also be noted that I have to fish a headphone style jack with a 90* bend at the end. I also see some people have suggested going in through the rubber grommet in the door jamb. Seems like an easier install and appears it can be done cleanly and without and pinching of the wire. Any reason not to do this?

Thought I'd post this here since I used this thread for research before getting this BDS kit. Thought I'd add some input after getting the BDS 4" w/ Fox shock upgrade. The ride is so much better than my stock Z71 setup with ReadyLIft leveling kit that the two can't be compared. Not sure if it was the leveling kit that made the ride stiffer or just the way the Rancho Z71 is but the BDS kit rides amazingly well. I used to feel every bump in the road with the Rancho setup and now the ride is smooth. Have Method 20" wheels with 33" Toyo AT2/s. I plan on getting a set of the King Shocks OEM coilovers for the front, they can make them in custom lengths. Just have to measure the full extended strut length at full drop. I got the rear blocks in this kit because I didn't know if the rear leafs would be stiffer than stock. Ordered the kit direct from BDS and had it drop shipped for free at a local retailer. It saved me from paying sales tax and came out cheaper than buying locally. I paid about $1200 for install but also got a quote for $800 from a shop a bit further away from me.

I just removed a Readylift Leveling kit front and rear 2.25" kit to install a BDS 4" kit. Any reason I shouldn't sell them on Ebay? Is it safe to sell someone a used leveling kit with less than 5k miles and a year installed?

I was given this same run around by my dealer. Gave them the PI1288a number multiple times and was told it did not exist. I sent an email to GM customer service. While waiting for a reply, I went to pickup my truck and asked to confirm the information I was given over the phone (that the PI1288a didn't exist). Service writer attempted to prove that to me and asked for the number again. It popped up instantly when he looked it up. I had them confirm it needed the new radio and it was ordered and has since arrived. Taking the truck in next week for install. Annoying to be given the run around when you already know what needs/should be done. I complained to the customer service rep that called and was given a case number.

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ with bad HD radio. Have my truck at the dealer for other things and complained about the radio. They said they can't find PI1288a. Is it a TSB? Why wouldn't they be able to find it, looks like others have had success by referencing that number? Can anyone help?

Installed a readylift leveling kit about 2 weeks ago. Went to re-check all bolts and noticed a couple things that I wanted to check with everyone here. 2014 Crew Cab LTZ Z71 4wd. Installed 2.25" Readylift up front and their +1 in the rear. Noticed that the "washer" looking pieces inboard of the bolts on the bottom of the strut seem to be pushing out at the top. Anyone else seeing this on a stock or leveled truck? Also, there seems to be a contact point between the spindle and bottom control arm. Think its just a steering stop but wanted to double check that as well. Spoke with a ready lift tech and he said steering stop seemed normal but the bottom strut issue might be a problem. One of the other techs he had look at the pictures said it was completely normal. Any input is appreciated.