'014SLTguy

Do you have a picture of the wear already? I'm wondering if it really is that cheap. I've got a Volkswagen and the entire steering wheel turned almost white from gray. We bought the car used with 9k miles and I think the previous owner/dealer put some krap on the wheel. I got looking in the forums to see what other people had done. The replys people put said they took it in under warranty and the dealership replaced the entire wheel since it was failing. I was just about to do this as well but wanted to cover my ass and be able to tell them "that I use the approved cleaning solution, I don't know what happened". On VWs website they recommend 3M Leather and vinyl restorer, so I got some off Amazon. I started spraying and cleaning with a basic lint free rag and couldn't believe it when all, and I mean all, of this white krap came off. It looked just like the leather was sun faded and old to begin with. After it was perfectly gray and new looking again. The wheel has been great ever since. I went ahead and used it in my truck too since I had it. Doesn't leave any greasy film behind or bad shine. Looks great too. Mainly, I'd say give some a try, maybe it's just gum or dirt built up. If not, this should be something that falls under manufactureres defect, and the dealer should replace this. Screw a wheel cover this early in the game IMO.

Has anyone put a high number of miles on theirs yet? This is my first GM and being a new model also, I'm just wondering about any major issues encountered. I had a Tundra before and had no real issues (besides their no negotiating higher prices). I love my 14 SLT so far, though I'm only up to about 24k miles so far. I got an extended warranty out to about 75k. I just wanted to see if I may need to plan early on trading in or selling off as I get closer to the end of warranty. I do know highway miles aren't always going to wear down a truck the same way as stop and go city driving (especially on New Orleans high quality roads).

I haven't had any issues with it yet. I used the plug under the floor for the pop and lock when I ran wires last year. As I was doing the wires through the door grommet I noticed the foam under the carpet was damp. I don't imagine it was from the plug under the floor since I avoid all the puddles I can. I guess its just from getting in and out with wet shoes. I'm going to be keeping an eye on things anyway.

I don't remember all the different kits that had a similar issue, but I remember seeing that a lot of people had to hammer fold over part of a weld seam for a clearance issue. It may be those same bolts that you're dealing with. I had a shop lower mine, so I'm not exactly sure if they had to do anything similar. Sorry I can't help more.

I didn't do anything extra to seal it. The bundle of wires had a smooth roundish wrap that was far larger than my hole. I was thinking it would be alright.

The sensors shouldn't freak out right? So long as it's downstream all it will see is a little less backpressure. As far as I knew they were just worried about AFR and bad particulate unburned from the cats. All that should still be the same. Not an emissions expert, just my understanding. I'd be real interested in this if it doesn't affect the sensors anyway. I want mine to sound more better too. My muffler new muffler still has a flapper and almost shouldn't qualify as being more than stock

I'd love to hear how it sounds. Any video clips yet? Also, how far up the line dis you have it put in? I had a new muffler put it with sidelet, but the shop wouldn't cut any cats out. Said they could lose their license if they did, pansies.

I'm currently using the rigid switch it came with. Plan to splice/extend the battery or switch wires about 1-2 feet, it's not quite enough since the battery is on opposite side. I didn't wait for the adapter pigtail to use stock wiring. I also have no tow hooks and thought about trying to fit the factory lights and housing into the hook cutouts and run them back on factory wires, having two sets of fogs.

Ok, so i got looking to find a shorter way into the cab while i was hooking up my new Rigid fog lights. The grommet is nothing more than a plug, no other wires to deal with. It will accommodate a half inch diameter bundle of wires. Right by the top driver side door hinge there's a grommet that leads right by the parking brake. The oval hole in the fender is a close distance away and clear of the door hinge. any path through the driver side fender will lead to the door hinge. Just the standard coat hanger needed. The grommet is easily visible from this clear area by the parking brake. While routing just keep it routed away from the linkage.

I got Llumar ceramic tint all around. Brought the rear down to 15, front to 35 and put on their Air 80 tint on the entire front windshield. It's almost clear and mainly just blocks heat and UV as well. Stuff was pricey but worth it on this truck.

Forgot the pictures. Also plasti dipped the rear bumper as well.

Today I plasti dipped my emblems and part of my bumper.

Everything is great with it so far. Turning radius sucks a little bit. But nothing that can't be lived with. Had it installed because I don't have a driveway, live in a town house. DJM has recommended places that routinely do the installs and get the pinion angle correct. I have zero vibration issues. Just took a small alignment to adjust the toe in on front end. Well worth it and it looks great. No tire rub since it's not a huge drop.

This is my latest. DJM 2/4 lower control arm drop. Installed anti sway bar as well. Firmed up the ride a bit, still close to a stock ride. Handles real nice now too.

22" SEV CK162 6 spoke black, 285/45r22 Dueler H/L. Just the factory black 22s available. Liked these the best.

I'll keep your thread on topic. I just bought mine a couple weeks ago. Removed my running boards and put on my favorite 22's.