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Any resolution to this problem? My 2014 just started doing the same thing on a road trip over the weekend. The errors show up while driving, but when I turn off the truck and start it up they are gone.

FYI After driving about 10 to 15 miles the light reset itself.

What was the consensus here? I just replaced my headlights and have the same MAF sensor error Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I ran them in with my impact gun. And then tightened with socket wrench. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Good to know thanks for sharing the info. Learn something new everyday. Is this why these bolts were harder to crank down than I expected? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

What is a self tapping bolt? When I hear that I think of a bolt with a sharp point designed to penetrate an area that did not already have a hole. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I didn't have to do anything special to get them to fit. Just unbolted the plastic ones and bolted up the aluminum ones. Try this link https://goo.gl/photos/ApfsWXDBinoRAAJz6 Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

https://goo.gl/photos/ApfsWXDBinoRAAJz6/URL] Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Search amazon for Baofeng Uv5R. I would recommend upgrading the antenna to a whip style that can be found on Amazon, that will set you back another $15 but worth it fit the extended range. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I am new to the game myself. I got started on these handheld Baofeng radios that you can find on amazon. The UI is not great but they are super inexpensive and a great way to try before you drop $200+ on a name brand. I like these raidos because they are a full 5w of power, compared to gmrs which are far less. Plus you can program in repeaters and really start to talk some distances, 40+ miles. I think the Baofeng run about $30 now. I'll see if I can find a link to post. Currently I have a yaseu FT-8800r in my truck. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I vote for adding a ham radio, its a useful tool and entertainment. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I have a 2014 and last year I purchased the metal skid plates that from GM that were listed as a 2015 part. The dealership said GM didn't have a metal skid plate option for 2014. I bought it any way and it all mounted up just fine. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I just had these installed at Costco by my buddy, they have a program that converts the psi to ensure the same load limits. He said run them at 55psi. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Yes the axles still spin when in 4WD or 2WD, but the point the dealership is making is that the angle of the drive shaft from the transfer case to the front differential is not perfect, which is causing the vibration when I go itnto the 4WD modes. What I don't understand is why I get the vibration in "Auto" Can anyone explain the difference between 2H and Auto or 4H and Auto? My assumption is that the front hubs are locked and the axle is engaged, but I could be completely wrong.

I got my truck back from the dealership, after they had it for 13 days for a vibration issue. It turned out the vibration I was experiencing was related to an improper TSB update to my transfer case. Basically, they discovered that the update was applied incorrectly, and that my transfer case has been stuck in four-wheel-high for the past two months. They re-applied the update and now when I run in two-wheel drive there is no vibration. The vibration comes back when I shift to Auto or 4H and cruise at freeway speeds. I was told by the dealership that you shouldn't be driving around in "auto" mode, and just keep in 2H. Interestingly enough they attributed part of the vibration in Auto and 4H to my "aftermarket shim kit" (aka leveling kit) that has put the front drive axles at a less than optimal angle. We'll see what the result is going to be in the long term. Hopefully it will be all good. I have attached the full write up that I received from the dealership, hopefully this will help some of you.

I just got another call from GM and the dealership stating that they are STILL waiting for this darn PICO scope to measure the vibration. A quick search on the internet and I did find this article on the GM Techlink site. While I don't think this would address my exact issue, I thought it was interesting. Sorry if this is a duplicate post. http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=3820 And here is some information about how they do or SHOULD be doing a diagnosis on the vibration issue http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?s=Silverado&search=Search

I too started having vibration issues, and my truck has been in the shop for a week while the dealership waiting on a diagnostic tool. I just got off the phone with GM's Customer Action Team, and she acknowledged to me that the Silverado is having a couple different vibration issues. She mentioned the two fixes that she has heard that are working are to switch to 18" wheels and to "have the entire drive train replaced". When I asked her what does that mean? She said I'm not a mechanic. On my silverado the vibration is not a speed issue, it's an engine RPM issue as I can replicate the vibration at 30 mph and 60 mph. And like other postings have mentioned when the vibration is at its worst, the engine has a drop in power and feel like it is being held back (or that the cylinders aren't firing at the right time). It is very strange.

I just ordered the Pro Comp 2.25" leveling kit from 4wheelparts today. The sales guys said that this would make the truck sit level. But I'm reading conflicting info that the front is now going to be 0.5" higher? Anyone with first hand experience with this leveling kit that can help? I've got a couple weeks until my appointment if I need to make some changes. I'm running a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 4x4 w/ max towing package. All help is much appreciated. Thank you.