Civerus

The 'official' GM fix for moisture in headlamp capsules is to perform a 'test' by leaving the headlamps on for -four- hours, if it dries out, no more repairs are necessary. If it does not dry out, they are to drill 'vent' holes in the housings, which 99% of the time works. If this does not solve the issue, then, and only then, are they to replace the housings.

Alright I'll chime in here, speaker packages go by RPO not by trim, I'm sure different trims come with different RPO's though. My 2014 Sierra Reg cab/short WT2 came with UQ5 which is .. one tier higher than the UQ3 package (which is a base radio/door speaker setup I believe), UQ5 is 4-speaker with two door and two rear. Yes the rear are extremely quiet and unruly, quite useless. The UQA is the Bose package. With this out of the way, the door panels have like 3 or 4 screws total behind hidden trim caps, all are 10mm, and the corner triangle piece, which prys out CAREFULLY or you will break the clips. From there, all you need to do is pry the door panel off with a plastic trim-removal stick or something plastic and non-scarring on the door paint. It'll be loud but the panel will pop off. Stock sizes for doors are 6x9, but can be adapted to 6 1/4 all the way to 6 3/4 with brackets. Crutchfield would be my supplier for this. The rear speakers are far more difficult, you do not need to pull the seats to do it, but it may be easier. Both pillars have an airbag, make sure you disconnect the battery and wait at least two minutes for the capacitors to discharge before taking the trim loose (I must say this). The trim is very difficult to get out, once again grab your plastic trim stick and start going to town from the bottom up, lots of clips and near the top is also two 7mm? screws. The rear speakers are 4x6, but can be adapted to 3 1/2 or 4". The dash speakers are 2" tweeters I believe, my truck does not have them and I haven't torn into the dash of a 14 or 15 yet that has them, I do know that to get to them, all you do is pull the A pillar trim off, which either prys off or has an 8mm screw behind the airbag logo if it has a removable one. Then you just pry the dash gently up with your trusty plastic trim removal tool, start near the speakers or center of that piece and work your way out/in. Be VERY gentle, this piece is not cheap. Round speaker cones will inherently sound better than any oval shape, so try to adapt if you can. A good pair with replacing the front and rear speakers would be to pickup an Alpine Power Pack 4-ch in-dash amp. It wires in-line with your existing radio/speaker channels and fits up in the dash, it is the perfect wattage for 95% of aftermarket component systems. The rear speakers are probably intentionally quiet due to the nature of a 4x6 being a small form speaker. Pair that with the fact they are right next to your head. Either way, swapping it all out and amplifying it will solve this problem. Keep in mind not to hack your factory speaker harness apart at the speaker mounting locations due to it all being part of one large harness and not independent, run new wires.

Alright, I've installed hundreds of these on the trucks (yay PDI's). I'm not going to read through all 13 pages to see if this has been solved so here it is. The kit comes with the harness, two lights, the push-square deals and the screws. Should take about 20-30 minutes to do this. 1. - First lower your gate and take the tail-lights off by loosening the two screws on each one and pull them out (may take a little effort due to retaining clips) 2. - Next go under your bed, under the truck. Look at your spare tire. LOOK AT IT. Now look above it, to the driver side of the truck, about mid-way down the spare tire (no need to remove it), you should see a wiring BUS system, likely with quite a few things plugged into it. Look for a white dummy plug on the very driver-side of the BUS system. Remove this dummy-plug, this is where your harness will connect to. 3. - Goto the harness. Pick it up. Observe it, and its plastic...ey? goodness. It will be labeled DRIVER and PASSENGER side on the ends. Make sure you get this right. Go under the truck again, and plug this into the spot that you removed the dummy-plug from. 4. - Now take the wiring, and run the DRIVER side, as high as possible against the bottom of the bed, through all the little holes and areas to keep it held up, and run it up to a little hole that is located below the driver side tail-light. Fish this wire out of the hole and then do the PASSENGER side, the same way, above the spare tire, the crank bar, all of it, to the hole, and fish it out. 5. - Alright, you are done down there until the end. Now go up top and take the wire (either side) that you fished up through the tail-light hole, and now (small hands help) fish it even higher through the side of the top of the bed. This can be hard, but do-able. Do this for both sides. 6. - You will see some square open holes on the bed side near the side rail right below it, about a foot or two in from the back. Push the metal tabs into those two squares on each side. 7. - Get the LED light and place it up to the squares, facing so they would shine down preferably. Now -start- the screws through the LED light and begin screwing them in. About 4 turns in, take the wire on the driver side only, and run it ABOVE the light, BEFORE you tighten it down all the way. Finish tightening. The PASSENGER side does not have this issue. 8. - Once done with mounting and plugging in the LED lights, test them with the bed light switch on the dash. Works? yay +1 and get a beer. Now take the push-tabs that came on the harness and find the closest spot they push into, and do this, especially in the tail-light area. 9. - Reinstall tail-lights.