Matt_ replied to gearheadesw's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)First reply! Lol But same.... one of these will likely be my next truck.
Not sure who makes the OEM, but AMP Research states specifically to only use silicon spray, NO other lubes or oils. I think less 'stuff' in linkage that could add friction, the better.
I honestly think the 295 RTs will look better than the 305 AT2s. And being slightly shorter will make more of the aggressive tread visible in the wheel well with the 2" lift, and the width difference won't be noticeable. You also forgot to tell everyone you're getting aftermarket wheels (20x9 +18mm?) which changes how they'll fit.
There's not that big of a weight difference. 295 AT2 is 61 lb vs 64 lb for the RT 305 AT2 is 62 lb vs 67 lb for the RT Tread depth is almost the same... 16.3/32 for AT2 and 16.4 for RT. If you're worried about weight and fitment, and gas mileage, but still want a more aggressive look, the 295/55/20 RT's seem like the best bet. I feel like we've had this discussion ;)
Yeah but i'm primarily a mountain guy. I have a gravel grinder with roadie wheelset for hitting the tarmac with friends, but only do that every once in a while.
Will need to get tow mirrors for pulling a travel trailer, but want to keep my powerfold option for fitting in the garage. Any speculation from some of the aftermarket companies if they'll be making them for our trucks? Looks like they make them for the newer model.... I don't see how GMT900's were missed; there has to be a market there
I have both tires, right now. The AT2s are smooth and quiet, whereas the P3s were a pain to balance and much more rough & noisy than the Toyos. I was a Mickey fan and loved the first gen ATZs that I ran on my Sierra. With that said, the Toyo AT2s have crappy wet and winter traction as compared to the original Toyo ATs that I had prior. Currently running both tires and I can tell you neither will be run again. Looking elsewhere for my next set.
Matt_ replied to truckofwinandawesome's topic in Major League Sports, Outdoor Recreation, Firearms, Hunting, OHRVTwist shift on the bars and brakes in the drops.... that's a weird combo. Most hybrid road/adventure setups have brakes & shifters in the drops with a second set of brake levers on the bars for when riding in a more relaxed position.
It's been a few years since I've been active with lifting GM trucks, but I was very well versed when I was. I'm back with a Yukon XL 2500, because although my Commander is a 7 seater and has the 5.7L, it just doesn't have room for my family+cargo, nor the towing capacity for a good sized travel trailer. I did my research and will be ordering my lift very soon (as soon as a friend of mine buys my Jeep). Not looking for a massive lift or a show rig, just some better clearance for 33s, which i'm already running with some carefully done trimming. .... so here's what I've come up with: I want NTBD. For the 2500's, there aren't many options. But that's OK because I want to go with one of the better quality kits for this rig. It seems like the Cognito 4-6" NTBD is the way to go. Yes, I could also use the cognito NTBD adapters with other lifts, but then the price is right there if I would have just ordered the Cognito from the start (that option seems better for those with kits already installed and want to get their bars tucked away). I already have adjustable Fox resi shocks that'll work for the rear. I want adjustable shocks for the front, which means i'm limited to ordering a custom set of Fox's, or going with Rancho 9000XLs. To keep the initial costs down, I think I'm going to put on the Rancho's and keep the stock UCA's for the time being. So the UCA's... I want to get the Cognito boxed UCA's, since I really don't want to snap a stock balljoint (i know they're a weak link on these vehicles) when i'm down at OBX riding on the beach. But due to the travel they allow, they must be paired with the Cognito spec'd Fox shocks which are designed to limit suspension travel (or limiting straps). Since we're not going to OBX this summer, I figure the UCA upgrade with Fox shocks could wait until next year, and I can add the C/D adjuster to the front Fox resi shocks. Well, that's the plan.... anything I may have missed? Are there other options i've overlooked? Thanks
They called me up the day I dropped it off and said they had to wait until the following day to verify if they were covered. So they definitely checked something... The certified bumper to bumper is supposed to cover everything the original bumper to bumper covers (but for only 12 months). After that it's only the powertrain warranty extension
So just a quick update. After a few more conversations my issue was getting elevated to the regional manager, but it would be a few days before a decision would be made. Called them up and said I'll pick my truck up Monday since I don't want it sitting there while this drags out. Got a call back a few hours later saying it's all taken care of, everything's covered and it'll be ready Monday. Maybe the headlights are considered critical for safety so they're covered for liability reasons?
I've been tapering off, especially as my kids are getting beyond the toddler stages and want to do more activities on the weekends. This particular time of year is tough though because I mentor a high school robotics team, and January through March is their core season.
That's the plan now. I have 4 kids and do a lot of volunteering outside of work so my time is limited. It was nice thinking I could have something fixed under warranty, I can't remember ever dropping a vehicle off and picking it up when it's done... wanted to know what it feels like! Lol New headlights are already installed.
Its been a good vehicle so far. Lots of people like swapping vehicles every 5 years Other than the headlights (which they replaced) and the passenger side defrost, it's been solid.
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