I have installed my Revolver X2, but have a fitment question for you guys. How does it fit over the tailgate? I though you are supposed to be able to close the gate with the cover closed, but my tailgate hits the cover (barely, but enough to stop it from closing), I have to pull up the center of the cover slightly, then I can close the tailgate. It is also difficult to close the cover with the gate up, I suspect for the same reason, there is just slightly too little space. My issue is caused by probably only about 1/6 - 1/8 of an inch where the tailgate hits the cover. I can deal with it, not huge, but would be nice if I could open and close the tailgate without having to pull up the cover slightly before.
Sorry, not clear, my key does not hit, it is the key FOB rocking back and forth that hits. It is pretty much when driving around town and I turn and momentum takes over and FOB turns into a pendulum moving from column to shifter.
That just pisses me off, why skip it on the trucks then, kinda like how we didn't get push-button start... my freaking key fob still annoys the hell of me hitting the column and occasionally the shifter, but that is more understandable, since there would be a much bigger cost involved in the inclusion.
So basically we all get lawyered because some people don't look at the windows when rolling them up? I had auto up on my last to vehicles (both German, also, granted one of them was a coupe, so only 2 "front" windows), never had the issue of anyone/anything getting stuck in them, that just seems like legislating things that do not need it. I did have a dog almost get caught in another car, but it had nothing to do with an auto up, she was standing on the window button on the door (why the current buttons, where you have to "pull" up is a much better design than old buttons where you push down and push up). I didn't consider I could have tried to sue Ford, I just made a note to self to turn on the child window locks when my dog is in the car.
Did anyone try? I was sitting in my truck in my parking garage this morning, holding the up switches, and just thinking, why they hell do I have auto up only on mine, but auto down on them all... Would like to do this as well, if it can be done.
God damn, that is the one thing that really matters, my freaking key fob banging into the column shifter is yet to stop annoying me... I stand by my 29K MSRP Golf TDI had true keyless entry and pushbutton ignition, why they hell is not an option on a 59K MSRP vehicle. I miss it more than anything else about my Golf, and I though I wouldn't really care much for it when I bought that car. I still hop into my remote started truck all the damn time, and get annoyed to have to dig keys out of my pocket before I can get going on my merry way.
I like the split of the Denali grill, but dislike the design. I like the LED Tails, I dont like the C-Shape LED's on the headlights, pretty ugly. All in all, happy I bought mine when I did. LED Tails look like they can be swapped, shape looks the same, but tough to tell.
I was going to ask the same thing, like the Revolver/Roll-x design, not crazy about the logo plate. Have been thinking about the Revolver, is it any different than the Roll-X? It seems like maybe more locking area, but I tried to look it up a while back, and couldnt really find what made it "better".
No Clunks in min, built in January. Only thing I get is odd "hard shifts", but I think they relate to cold transmission and very slow speeds. I.e, When I leave work, and I am in my parking garage, it sometimes feels like the truck cannot decide if it should skip second, and it makes are hard shift, but it only happens at very low speeds (parking lots), when the truck has been parked for a long time (so its cold) - I noted that 30 seconds or so of idle, and this hard shift doesn't happen, so I am not remote starting it when I am getting close, and I don't see this much anymore. It may be gone because I have more miles on the truck, or it may be that the idling heats up the truck just enough, not sure. No audible clucking whatsoever - Just an annoying electronic sounding hum when in Auto. I have had the truck since late Feb, but I am still under 1,500 miles, so pretty new in that respect.
I emailed back and forth with a guy named Manuel at Cavendar in San Antonio, I sent him the link to a tuck optioned exactly the same, and asked him the best they could do, they asked me for a bunch of details about me to see what discounts I would qualify for, and he got to $1,040 off of Laura's listed price. Made the long ass drive/flight not worth it. Their website only listed I think 1 discount at the time that I would have qualified for, but they got much better than that. I would not just review the sites, actually talk to the people, and I think we dealing gets you a better deal, as they all know you can easily negotiate with 5-10 (or however many dealerships you want) at once. It is of note, that I bought at the end of Feb, and I noticed the little sales "chart" behind the counter where I wrote a huge check, and Manuel was well behind the other salesmen on the chart for the month (I think 3 behind the next closest salesman), so that may have helped me out as well. But I was straight up honest. I told him, that I did not want to go all the way to Illinois, if I could avoid it, but if they could not get close I would go there. I said that I think break even would be around 6-700 dollars over the Laura price, and if they could not get to that 700 dollar mark, then I would have to start thinking about the value of my time, and the miles it would put on the truck. This strategy of just being straight up with him about my intentions worked for me. And They are not dumb, they know if they are close it is not worth your time and the other sunk costs to go that far away, if you level set that with them, and tell them what they are really bidding against, I think a local dealer will do right, they all want sales. Maybe the end of the month is a good idea too though. Walk in, see if you can spot a sales chart, and talk to the guy who is doing the worst that month, probably has the most incentive to get you in something - I just dumb lucked into that guy, but if and when I buy my next car, I will see if I can do this on purpose.
I replied to your Laura topic just a bit ago, I would keep negotiating locally (or semi-locally). I got a deal that after taking into account the cost of the flight to Illinois, hotel stay and fuel, cost me about $2-300 more than Laura, but didn't take 2 days of my time, plus a ton of miles on my brand new truck.
Denali's were easy to find when I bought mine. I could have bought the 5.3 with any color/options I would have wanted in Houston. The 6.2 was impossible find. No dealer in Houston had one, in any color with any options, on the lot, I only found 1 new in DFW and 2 in SA. I had to go to SA to get it the way I wanted it (and it was actually in transit when I started negotiating, not actually in stock yet), when I spoke with the dealer there, he said they trade trucks with Houston all the time, but because neither place can keep the 6.2's in stock (he said they all sell within 10 days of landing on the lot, most in 4-5 days), they said it is the only thing that they would not trade with Houston dealers. More Denali's doesn't mean much, unless it means more 6.2's, but honestly, less of them the better... just means mine will be more desirable when it comes time to sell it.
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