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Rawyzf

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Everything posted by Rawyzf

  1. TSP reported saying it really doesn't matter on these trucks when N/A.
  2. I have them, sound and function the same as the other brands. Only real difference it that TSP uses slip connections for the LT to the Y. Where the others use ball connections to everything I believe. I have a few vids (like posted above) on youtube. Also, there is a long thread on TSP headers somewhere on this forum where I have a lot of pictures. I have some in my build thread also.
  3. I run about 46 up front and 45 in the rear, cold psi. I found this to be a nice sweet spot.
  4. Do you have LT/E Load tires? That would be the blame, especially if the PSI it too high. I went from 275/60/20 to 285/70/17 and thought the ride was softer with the 17s once I had the PSI dialed in.
  5. Not at all. In fact it was a blast. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  6. I did the AFM delete and cam swap on my G8. Just starting the car up put a big smile on my face. I miss that lope. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks! I forgot how much of a handful puppies are. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  8. Couple more pics of Luna. 10 weeks old now. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  9. I have this setup as well, 2" RC Level. No rub at all.
  10. The 305/70/17 is almost a 34" tire, that will rub for sure on just a leveled truck. The 33x12.5 is a good choice. Chances are you'll rub a little though on full lock because of the width.
  11. Our new Puppy, Luna. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  12. Rawyzf

    Method Lugs

    Hey, 17x8.5 +0. You'll sit 6mm out furter than I am. I have lots of pics on my build thread. Should be a link to it in my Sig. Also, I'd do a true 33" if I were you, 285/70/17. Should only need a 2" level to avoid rubbing.
  13. They are replaceable, but I don't want to cut down 100 of them ;) Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  14. Keep an eye out for the 20% deal on Auto Anything. You can get the Methods for a hair over $600. I like the center caps and middle section on methods way better. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  15. What was the beadlock issue? I have a few that are starting to show surface rust. I called to see if they have replacements or offer them in stainless and they said no. I googled and found some old threads on different forums saying they offered replacements. So I am a bit confused. Not a big deal, but would like to replace them if possible. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  16. Remember too, mufflers take a few weeks to break in. It will get a tad louder once that happens.
  17. Reading this makes me want to do an AFM delete cam swap.
  18. Strange, unless you have large tires. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  19. There is a youtube video from a member on here, he had ARH & Volant Catback. Volant is Corsa basically, just lower grade. His video shows Volant before and after headers, it will be exactly what you need to hear. I5ZQ8 is his youtube id. Edit: here you go.
  20. With Corsa, you're definately going to want to get a catted Y pipe if you don't want Rasp or Popping, etc. Tune will be very similar, if not the same between catless Y or catted.
  21. I did the install with my brother, he is a mechanic, so we did it at his shop after hours. I already had Borla Catback, so it didn't get too much louder. However, it became a lot more raspy....which I didn't like, so I added the factory resonator back and that resolved the issue. With Corsa and Catless headers, you're gonna piss off your neighbors and your neighbors neighbors.
  22. All depends on your budget and standards. Kooks, Stainless Works, ARH are your best quality but come at a cost premium. I went with Texas Speed. Less than half the cost of the above, and the quality is good. Had a few little fitment issues, but they were easy to resolve. I have seen similar issues with Kooks and ARH, but have no first hand experience. I like that Kooks and ARH have non slip connection pieces for the LT to the Y. I don't have leaks, but I like knowing that when you bolt something you have it in the right spot. With slip connection, you have margin for error. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
  23. All you need is the Headers, then a Muffler. Tip is optional, but I do like the look. Just get the OEM Chrome tip, it looks good in my opinion and you can get one ebay for a decent price. Your stock exhaust has the resonator in place, right after the rear axle. If you do end up splitting (dual rear), they will most likely remove your resonator. However, since you are getting catted Y pipe, you might not have as much noise and can live with it.
  24. This is well said. I bet you would be happy with my setup. It has the best of both worlds as well, but just not as "tiny" as you get with the stock muffler. If you want to explore or throw $100 more into your setup, cut out that OEM muffler and throw the Borla I have on in there and leave the resonator in place.
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