boazEarl8

People have tried the fuse, some report it works other reports say no difference Shows you how each vehicle is truly a different set of circumstances Are you getting the SLT? If it rode well, you should grab it quick.

I'm still trying I test drove around 10 before getting mine, same thing found the one where booming was the least I've now been in about 30-40 between the 6 variants, and I have felt the boom in every single one

Since you mentioned the roof bow "fix" Think 2 people here had it done only to have the bows come undone shortly thereafter More recent posters have reported that dealers now say they are waiting for a solution from GM, so seems like GM "pulled" the roof bow repair and (hopefully) are trying to find a permanent solution

John the booming is there even with windows open i.e. no pressure difference between inside and outside cabin If you're bored, start at page one. EVERYTHING has been attempted. So far the best results by far have been to get 20" wheels and road force to 15lbs or lower. This assumes your vehicle only booms (think flicking a subwoofer). If you're vehicle vibrates, that's a different story.

The vibration fix is up to the dealer, there's no set steps it is just trial n error to see what could be causing it in the rear end But there's been a recent post where someone had the entire rear end rebuilt/new parts and vibration is still there For the buffeting (roof), there is a TSB for a fix, but it has been reported to come undone so maybe GM is back to the drawing board on that one The vibration fix is up to the dealer, there's no set steps it is just trial n error to see what could be causing it in the rear end But there's been a recent post where someone had the entire rear end rebuilt/new parts and vibration is still there For the buffeting (roof), there is a TSB for a fix, but it has been reported to come undone so maybe GM is back to the drawing board on that one

Same advice as we gave then Test drive it first and see what issues, if any, are present Keep test driving until you find a good one Any vibrations stay far away

Dealers are rarely upfront, but you could talk to the GM or sales manager who sold it to you and see what they are willing to do, be prepared for nothing Other recourse would be start keeping service notes and attempt to have your issues repaired and see if you trigger the lemon law

If you're happy with it, that's all that matters, but if you follow thru the thread history, the vibration (vs the "open window effect") is the much much harder problem to fix, IIRC only seen 1 person get it fixed and went thru 2-3 major rear end parts being replaced (struts, drive shaft, etc)

Test drive some more, definitely shouldn't feel dizzy No way to get around 22s being a tough ride especially on crap NE roads Dropping pressure to 33 definitely will help but 20s at 33 will be even better

CL Houn right? You've been on the thread almost as long I me, the TSBs are here, but I think you need to redo your approach. If you test drive one that "feels" bad, why negotiate to have it fixed? Just move on and find another until you find a good one. They are out there, just takes some time. That's what I did rather than have the dealer rip open my headliner to reapply glue - which now we're seen 2 people report have come undone anyway.

I dropped my unsprung weight big time and noticed a very large improvement in booms/buffets, went from OEM 90lbs to 60lbs; I actually have lifted the front of my truck 1.5" to fit larger tires

Free2b I agree with Jason, but I guess we have different methods .. luckily no GM buybacks, but in other situations, I was always very polite, professional but firm with my dealer, and made sure to keep my dealer on my side, I always thought having them on my side helped rather than hurt

I know you're a (proud) vendor but statements like this can highlight your objectivity I live in SF, not valid that a dropped SUV on 26s can make it *safely* to Tahoe during real snow unless you're creeping along at 10mph A light dusting at lower elevations maybe but that usually means there is 4-12 inches on the roads closer to Tahoe, which would be havoc on a vehicle with no road clearance, and we're not even mentioning you'll have almost no grip on non-winter tires plus no room for chains when required If the CHP doesn't turn you around, you'll get turned around on your own

Just remember If it vibrates, you must migrate (to another one)

Except someone here a few/lot pages back saw no difference with them on or off, and I found the same as I had them removed at delivery ... I did not try them in the other positions

Was this one at the stubborn dealer? If so glad you found one and they came around

Someone replied to you earlier It still exists on the 16s I felt booms and buffets on every one I test drove (>10 all 2016s) and vibrations on maybe half of them Booms and buffets to different degrees

Doesn't this show us why there's no fix almost 2 years later? Shouldn't opening the tailgate eliminate any issues since the cabin pressure is now equal to the outside? Or, at the very least, the issues should be greatly reduced?

I have to go revisit, but I could swear that I felt very minimal booming on my test drive (with cross bars attached) and seemed worse after I had them removed prior to delivery since I assumed more turbulent air (driven by cross bars) would make the issue worse Thank you for driving with the rear open, mine is at the dealer for an unrelated issue

I used their 1.5 on my magnetic ride Cadillac ESV, I can't imagine the Denali pickup setup is much different? I've had no issues or complaints, and when I ordered, they were very specific to make sure I ordered the setup made for MRC

What happens if you drive around with the rear glass open? Open should also alleviate any drumming between the glass and seal, right?

Thinking outloud If the rear hatch was the true source of the issue, don't you think GM would have fixed that by now almost 1.5 years after the initial reports It would not be expensive for new bushings, tighter couplings, new lock, etc The roof, OTOH, is a major repair expense and even more so if you want to redesign it mid production

Right, only right after the GM "fix" is applied. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

Frank I posted this before, don't think anyone replied but trust your opinion What would be the downside of using something like fiber fix to actually lash the roof bow to its attachment point so that when the glue eventually comes undone, the lashes will still keep them together

Ozzii make sure the tech is driving, that's the best (worst) place to be to feel the issues