lawnboy-5247

Thanks for the info, I'm replacing the pump only.

Hi everyone, my water pump is starting to leak and I was going to replace it but I have heard varying numbers for the torque spec from 7-22ftlb. I was wondering if anyone here has the torque spec for the bolts?

Also slightly off topic but My transmission cooler lines are starting to leak in the flexible hose portion and I know that the lines include the thermostat but I am unsure which part number GM is using with the hose set. Does anyone know if the new part number thermostat is being included with the transmission cooler line sets?

Figured I could add some updated pics of my truck Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk

Another Kansan here, I'm from the KC area.

It sounds like the ground wire connection in the cab is still not completely connected or the ground for the hood latch is not connected to the frame well enough I would check both of those along with the hood latch connector and then try to clear the codes.

I installed remote start on my truck, I believe that as long a you have remote locks already the remote start kit will work. Be aware though you will have to have the bcm and fobs programmed by the dealership. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

Have done several things to my truck in the past several months and have not had a chance to post them untill now Airaid MIT Tow hooks Lightbar behind grill Washed clayed and waxed Camlocker tool box I will get more pics this weekend, I spent a lot of time trying to make the light bar wiring look professional. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

Well I got the fobs and bcm programmed today for $100 and everything works great, I even got an added bonus. My truck did not originally come with the theft deterrent system equipped but now it is activated and functioning (it was obviously already installed but just needed to be turned on in the computer). I am unsure if this is the way the reprogram is supposed to be or if its an accident on the dealers part but either way i'm not complaining.

Yep that's it other than having the dealer program the fobs.

Now you route the green wire to the black plug on the bcm and plug it into pin 24, pin 24 may or may not have a green and brown striped wire already in it that you will need to remove and tape back. The green arrow is pointing to the wire I removed and the red arrows point to the wire from the harness I connected in its place. After this you are done accept for dealer programming and applying some automotive silicone sealer to the point where the harness enters the cab through the grommet to seal the cut you made. I hope this helps some of you guys, If you have any other questions I will try to answer them

here you can see where the wire comes through into the cab. this is also where I stuck my tubing through in order to push the wire through the grommet

now you must remove the black box to get to the other side of the grommet, the other side of the grommet is located around where the green arrow is. The three red arrows are the 3 bolts that hold the junction box on.

Now you zip tie the harness to the main body harness, making sure there is a low spot to act as a drip loop and then cut a slit in the small upper protrusion on the grommet to prepare to run the wire through. the red arrow is where you cut the slit and the green arrow points to the remote start harness the zip tie is just below the green arrow. Normally there would be nothing else going in in the same place but I have also installed tow mirrors on my truck and those also go in through the same part of the grommet

next the harness runs along still following the hood release cable. The factory instructions say to only put the harness through 2 of the 3 clips on the side of the engine bay but I put it through all three, I then zip-tied between the clips Green arrows are clips Red are where I zip tied