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Everything posted by Waterfowler41

  1. Friday Funny

    Picked up my new goose mount Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  2. Friday Funny

    This made me laugh! Found this on Facebook. Happy Friday! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  3. SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR MY FEEDBACK ON THE KIT I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck lift kit the other day so below is a quick how to on the process and some initial feedback I have on the kit. My truck has 75k miles and I knew before purchasing anything I had a blown rear shock. I wanted to lift my truck higher so instead of purchasing OEM equipment and adding more rough country spacers (already had a 2" lower up front), I saw the Eibach kit. It included everything to complete a reasonable 2.5" lift AND included new springs for less than $600. From my tuner days, Eibach was the go-to for lowering springs, I assume they know what they are doing plus they are American made, can't go wrong. The struts are adjustable like Bilsteins so this was the best option for achieving the lift I wanted. With the Eibach springs and the struts at their lowest setting, my truck would be 2.5" higher according to the instructions. Also, the rear shocks in the kit, safely handle a +1" lift in the rear. This is what I wanted! Since I was already touching every other suspension component, I figured I might as well add the 2" rear blocks I've been eyeing so I bought those direct from RC. Truck set up before project: 20" wheels, Falken AT3W 33" tires, RC 2" lower spacer with stock struts and shocks one of which is completely blown. The ride was sloppy, pulling into driveways or other major bumps my truck was rocking and rolling, signs my stock set up was done. I would wince before hitting large bumps on Chicago expressways knowing my cage was about to get rattle. The 20" wheels and heavier tires aren't helping but the dampers needed to be retired. Purchased parts: Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit: E80-23-006-02-22 Includes new springs, new monotube struts, and new monotube rear shocks. Also includes new king nuts for struts and bump stop collars for reusing OEM bump stop. https://eibach.com/us/i-8809-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html Rough Country: 6532 (2" rear blocks) Includes new u-bolts, washers, nuts, and 2" tapered rear blocks No link, this is the rear blocks from their leveling kit, you have to order over the phone. Side note, RC folks are REALLY nice on the phone. If your are uncomfortable working on compressed springs do not attempt the strut disassembly yourself. Take them to a shop. I've done several spring projects in my life and understand how dangerous they can be. Be safe and take the necessary precautions and where the right PPE. If the compressors fail, they should fail in an open area, not in front of you. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I am not responsible for misuse of the below info. Important tools: Eye protection and hand protection Pneumatic gun Spring compressors pry bar jack and jack stands Sockets 10 mm and 15 mm all the way up to a deep 22 mm Wrenches 15 mm all the way up to 22 mm A friend, loved one, kid, someone to help. I did this work by myself and it took me probably 6 hours in total, would've been half that with a second set of hands. Before you do any suspension work, always take measurement from fender to ground or from fender to top of wheel. This gives you baseline measurements to calculate your final lifts. Rears (blocks and shocks): 1. Jack your car up on both sides. Put on jack stands. You want the rear axle to drop straight down. Only doing one side at a time will be an issue, I learned the hard way. 2. Doing one side of the truck at a time, remove the upper shock bolt (the nut is welded, just remove bolt) and the bottom bolt/nut. Shock should pop right out with some love. 3. Place a car jack under the differential. Remove the (4) 21 MM bolts on the factory u-bolts. Again only on one side at a time. 3. SLOWLY lower the rear differential to allow enough room to remove the stock blocks. Watch your brake lines, you have some play but not too much. 4. Before installing the new block, clean the alignment pin and hole on your truck. Mine had a lot of dirt and salt. A wire brush cleaned it right up. I also sprayed it down with WD40 for good measure. 5. Once the block is installed and lined up, slowly raise your diff back up. If your blocks are tapered make sure the taller side of the block is closer to the rear of the truck. Install the new u-bolts and torque the new 22 mm nuts down in an alternating pattern. Old block next to new blocks below. 6. Install the new rear shocks, start at the top then do the bottom. I had to compress the shocks about 1/2" to get the bottom bolt in. 7. Repeat on other side then your done. I took the truck for a quick test drive to test out everything. No shutter, no issues. Picture below of my old shocks next tot he new, one looks blown... Time for the fun part, the fronts! Fronts (struts and springs): 1. Unbolt the 3 nuts on the top of the strut. Easy access through the engine bay. You can remove these before the car is lifted without issue. Leave the outside nut hand tight to prevent your strut from dropping out. 2. Jack up one side of car and remove wheel. 3. Unbolt the sway bar end link, tie rod end, two bolts on bottom strut mount, and the upper control arm ball joint. The UCA will need a BFH (code for hammer) to help it out. Leave the nut finger tight so the UCA doesn't shoot out of knuckle right away. Some people say you can do this without removing the UCA but I just couldn't see how that could be done in my application. 4. If you're by yourself place a car jack under the knuckle, remove UCA ball joint nut and slowly lower front hub assembly, there should be plenty of room to remove the strut now. I used a jack stand to hold the hub assembly while I unscrewed the top nut on the strut and carefully remove it. Once the strut is out, loosely reattach the UCA to the hub so you can leave it for a while. 5. With a permanent marker, draw a line down the strut assembling marking everything. The line should be on the outside face of the strut assembly. This is your index line, when you transplant these pieces to your new strut they should all line up. If they don't you messed something up. 6. Now the dangerous stuff, install your McPherson spring compressors on the stock spring, try to grab coils that are far from each other as the spring will be easier to compress. Compressors should be 180 degrees from each other to ensure even loading. 7. Put on all your PPE, say a pray, and start tightening the spring compressors until you see a gap between spring and strut per mounts. Treat loaded springs like a gun, never point it at anyone and try not to drop it, jostle it, anything that could affect the compressors grip. Personal note, when I am doing dangerous stuff in my garage I either text someone letting them know what I am doing and text them after I am done or tell my wife if shes inside to check on me occasionally. 8. After you remove the king nut, open up the compressors, you can toss the springs. You will need to remove the upper assembly of the strut (top mount, bracket, spring boot, and bump stop). You will also need to remove the lower spring perch. Do this by gently tapping the perch towards the top of the strut to release it. PB blaster helps speed this up. 9. Prepare the Eibach struts. These are adjustable to dial in your final ride hide. In my application, when used with Eibach springs, the bottom level (lowest setting) will achieve a 2.5" lift up front. Snap ring was moved into the bottom grove and collar installed. The lower perch from OEM strut was installed. 10. There is a metal collar inside the yellow bump stop, pull this metal piece out and replace with the one supplied by Eibach. The shaft is bigger on Eibach struts so the collar needs to be upsized. 11. Dangerous part 2, install the compressors on your Eibach spring. Again try to grab coils that are far apart to ease the compression process. I believe the springs needed to be compressed 1/2" to fit on the strut. This was the most nerve wrecking part of this project. The compressors have seen better days. Those bends are pretty ugly. 12. Once compressed start lining up the strut, inside rubber boot, bracket, and top mount. Your line you drew earlier should all line up with the outside face of the strut. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fully seated on the perch plate. 13. Install top metal spacer/washer from OEM strut and new king nut provided by Eibach. Tighten down nut then your good to unload the springs. Once the springs compressors are removed the scary part for that strut is over. 14. Remove the nut on the UCA and reinstall your strut. Have at least one bottom strut mount bolt available so once you get the strut lined up, you can throw a bolt on the hole to keep things in place. 15. Reverse the beginning steps with the reassembly of the hub parts. You'll will need a pry bar braced on the spring to hold the UCA down firmly into the top of the hub so you can tighten the nut without the ball joint spinning. 16. Repeat on other side. 17. Take your truck for a quick test drive, if no noises or issues, take in for an alignment. 18. Take final measurements to confirm relatively even lift. Drivers side may be lower due to gas tank. Final thoughts on the upgrade: I am absolutely in love with the kit. I've been putting off replacing shocks for a while, so glad I finally did this project. Dare I say, Eibach MDFA? (Made Driving Fun Again...) Like I mentioned above, I was beginning to notice I was wincing before hitting big bumps because of how loosey-goosey my suspension had become since I bought it. The Eibach kit firmed up the ride noticeably. At slow speeds I do feel small bumps which is a given with monotubes, 20" wheels, and aggressive tires. At speed, the dampers turned those crazy earth shattering/dash destroying bumps on Chicago expressways into muffled bumps on the road. Also the dampers recover quickly. Driving into parking lots or steep driveways, my truck you to rock back and forth, now the truck rocks and correct quickly. No over correction. I would highly recommended this kit as an alternative to the Bilstein kit. If your looking to lift your truck, its hard to beat this package. Overall very happy with the kit and how it turned out. Excited to get some off road time this hunting season! I filmed the install and will be posting the video when its edited. Thanks! WF41
  4. Construction hazard lights

    Here’s another option: They have a strobe mode, you can get them in amber too. My brother in law uses them for warning lights on his jobsites. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  5. I called rough country and they told me those forged control arms won’t with 2.5” lift. Sounds like you are having good success with them? This could be a game changer. They are decently priced. Can you share some pictures of your upper control arm angles? I’m curious how the upper ball joint looks into your wheel hub. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  6. Hope the write up is helping out with swapping shocks! Has anyone removed the struts themselves and taken them somewhere to have a shop install the springs on the new struts? Curious what the going rate for that work is. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  7. Yup had some rusty rim bolts on my methods, 8 months and replaced them twice. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  8. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Shouldn’t really come as a surprise for most of you, filmed the install of those Oznium lights. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  9. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Installed my Oznium led “raptor” lights. Also removed my front amazon special light bars. Very happy with how the front end is shaping up. Just need to color match that grill surround. Roughed in before wiring Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  10. What have you done to your K2 today?

    That why i was going to use a step bit, not a huge edge to catch the grill, I have a dremel but thought the step would give me a nice hole. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  11. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Joining the cool kids club soon. Picked up 3 Oznium flush mount LEDs for raptor style grill lights. Should look pretty slick in the Grill craft grill. I was planning to use a step bit to slowly drill out each hole in the mesh. Anyone have a better recommendation to drill a nice clean hole in metal mesh? Close up view of the mesh. Need to drill 3 11mm holes. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  12. 2014-2015 GMC Sierra Black Mesh Grill

    $215 shipped Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  13. $240-shipped or trade for OEM grill Mesh grill and bezel for 2014-2015 GMC Sierra 1500. The mesh grill is GrillCraft’s MX series black mesh. This is a direct fit piece. Remove your old grill/bezel and install this assembly in its place. Mesh is attached to chrome surround. If trading, we’d swap the bezel and the center grill (mesh in my case) with yours. You will remove the backing piece (part with x on it in diagram) Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  14. 2014-2015 GMC Sierra Black Mesh Grill

    Bump Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  15. Moore Racing Technology???

    I’m noticing a lot of these fly by night stores lately. I get the sense they are just operating out of a house and drop ship everything from their suppliers. Looking at MRT and Battle Born Instagrams, there are just too many similarities for them to not be the same company. Floors, locations, etc. Buyer beware, stick with the big trusted names. Most will match prices too. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  16. 2014-2015 GMC Sierra Black Mesh Grill

    Bump Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  17. Rigid Industries Approved GROUP BUY

    Great find. I’m noticing a lot of these fly by night companies lately. FCKLIGHTBARS is another one. Very active on Instagram but if you google them, their BBB grade is egregious. Conclusion...BUYER BEWARE!!!! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  18. Alright, currently have Eibach Pro Truck kit set at 2.5" up front and +1" rear blocks in the rear on my 2014 Sierra SLE using stock UCAs. Over the last week or so a knock has developed in the front driver side wheel well. I hear the knock inside my cab when I am driving at slow speeds and seems to correlate with road vibrations. Sounds like a thud every time I hit bumps no matter the size. Sound is clearly coming from the drivers side front wheel area. I hear it at high speeds as well but road noise makes it hard to hear. Truck has to be moving down the road to hear the noise. Work to date: Replaced sway bar end links and bushings. Inspected sway bar for bar to frame impacts. No dice. Re-torqued wheels. Visual inspection of everything under the truck. Everything checks out, no obvious issues. Removed wheels and pushed at 6/12 o clock and 3/9 o clock positions to see if I can feel play. No play noticed. Is there another way I can verify if my ball joints (upper and lower) are shot before going gung-ho on replacing everything. Anything else I should be looking at in the wheel area? The Eibach struts use a lot of the OEM strut parts, could something on there have failed? Would a wheel bearing cause this issue? Thanks folks!
  19. Front Suspension Clunking...help!

    Ugh....it’s back but on the passenger side now so warranty time.... Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  20. 2014-2015 GMC Sierra Black Mesh Grill

    Bump Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  21. What have you done to your K2 today?

    They were the wrong bolts for my LCA to lower strut mount connection when moving to the Eibach kit. Don't know if they are wrong for all applications. I ended up buying grade 8 - 7/16 bolts that were 2.5" long. Also used flange nuts to hold things tight along with a generous amount of loctite.
  22. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Found my knocking in the front suspension this weekend!!!! The bolts I used for the bottom strut were the wrong diameter, these are bolts I replaced when i upgraded from the RC kit to the Eibachs. I brought the bolts from the RC kit to the store and matched diameter not knowing that were wrong. Lesson learned, verify your bolt lengths & diameters!!! I’m pretty sure the diameter change issue is related to the fact that I haven’t used those bottom strut mount clips since before my RC level... anyways knocking found and fixed. Old bolts slid into old struts to show that the wear marks line up with the LCA mount. Like a new truck!! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  23. Rigid Industries Approved GROUP BUY

    Somethings not adding up with their posts. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  24. Front Suspension Clunking...help!

    Morale was very low in the garage.... Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  25. Front Suspension Clunking...help!

    Welp I think i found the culprit!!!! If you watch my eibach install video I mentioned that I previously had a rough country kit. When i upgraded to the eibach kit I replaced the lower bolts with grade 8 bolts of the same diameter. While swapping struts today I noticed a lot of slop in the lower bolts once loosened. Before reinstalling the bolts I ran to the hardware store and grabbed new grade 8 bolts a diameter size larger (7/16”). Turns out those fit PERFECTLY through the lower strut mount and the lower control arm. Even looking at the original bolts I had (3/8” I’m guessing, you can see the zinc coating was worn off right where they passed through the lower control arm. So in short, my lower bolt diameter was too small because I wasn’t using those stock nut clips! Pictures below showing the wear marks. Crossing my fingers this was the issue!!! I slipped them into my old struts to illustrate my point. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

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