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Waterfowler41

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Everything posted by Waterfowler41

  1. SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR MY FEEDBACK ON THE KIT I purchased the Eibach Pro Truck lift kit the other day so below is a quick how to on the process and some initial feedback I have on the kit. My truck has 75k miles and I knew before purchasing anything I had a blown rear shock. I wanted to lift my truck higher so instead of purchasing OEM equipment and adding more rough country spacers (already had a 2" lower up front), I saw the Eibach kit. It included everything to complete a reasonable 2.5" lift AND included new springs for less than $600. From my tuner days, Eibach was the go-to for lowering springs, I assume they know what they are doing plus they are American made, can't go wrong. The struts are adjustable like Bilsteins so this was the best option for achieving the lift I wanted. With the Eibach springs and the struts at their lowest setting, my truck would be 2.5" higher according to the instructions. Also, the rear shocks in the kit, safely handle a +1" lift in the rear. This is what I wanted! Since I was already touching every other suspension component, I figured I might as well add the 2" rear blocks I've been eyeing so I bought those direct from RC. Truck set up before project: 20" wheels, Falken AT3W 33" tires, RC 2" lower spacer with stock struts and shocks one of which is completely blown. The ride was sloppy, pulling into driveways or other major bumps my truck was rocking and rolling, signs my stock set up was done. I would wince before hitting large bumps on Chicago expressways knowing my cage was about to get rattle. The 20" wheels and heavier tires aren't helping but the dampers needed to be retired. Purchased parts: Eibach Pro Truck Lift kit: E80-23-006-02-22 Includes new springs, new monotube struts, and new monotube rear shocks. Also includes new king nuts for struts and bump stop collars for reusing OEM bump stop. https://eibach.com/us/i-8809-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html Rough Country: 6532 (2" rear blocks) Includes new u-bolts, washers, nuts, and 2" tapered rear blocks No link, this is the rear blocks from their leveling kit, you have to order over the phone. Side note, RC folks are REALLY nice on the phone. If your are uncomfortable working on compressed springs do not attempt the strut disassembly yourself. Take them to a shop. I've done several spring projects in my life and understand how dangerous they can be. Be safe and take the necessary precautions and where the right PPE. If the compressors fail, they should fail in an open area, not in front of you. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. I am not responsible for misuse of the below info. Important tools: Eye protection and hand protection Pneumatic gun Spring compressors pry bar jack and jack stands Sockets 10 mm and 15 mm all the way up to a deep 22 mm Wrenches 15 mm all the way up to 22 mm A friend, loved one, kid, someone to help. I did this work by myself and it took me probably 6 hours in total, would've been half that with a second set of hands. Before you do any suspension work, always take measurement from fender to ground or from fender to top of wheel. This gives you baseline measurements to calculate your final lifts. Rears (blocks and shocks): 1. Jack your car up on both sides. Put on jack stands. You want the rear axle to drop straight down. Only doing one side at a time will be an issue, I learned the hard way. 2. Doing one side of the truck at a time, remove the upper shock bolt (the nut is welded, just remove bolt) and the bottom bolt/nut. Shock should pop right out with some love. 3. Place a car jack under the differential. Remove the (4) 21 MM bolts on the factory u-bolts. Again only on one side at a time. 3. SLOWLY lower the rear differential to allow enough room to remove the stock blocks. Watch your brake lines, you have some play but not too much. 4. Before installing the new block, clean the alignment pin and hole on your truck. Mine had a lot of dirt and salt. A wire brush cleaned it right up. I also sprayed it down with WD40 for good measure. 5. Once the block is installed and lined up, slowly raise your diff back up. If your blocks are tapered make sure the taller side of the block is closer to the rear of the truck. Install the new u-bolts and torque the new 22 mm nuts down in an alternating pattern. Old block next to new blocks below. 6. Install the new rear shocks, start at the top then do the bottom. I had to compress the shocks about 1/2" to get the bottom bolt in. 7. Repeat on other side then your done. I took the truck for a quick test drive to test out everything. No shutter, no issues. Picture below of my old shocks next tot he new, one looks blown... Time for the fun part, the fronts! Fronts (struts and springs): 1. Unbolt the 3 nuts on the top of the strut. Easy access through the engine bay. You can remove these before the car is lifted without issue. Leave the outside nut hand tight to prevent your strut from dropping out. 2. Jack up one side of car and remove wheel. 3. Unbolt the sway bar end link, tie rod end, two bolts on bottom strut mount, and the upper control arm ball joint. The UCA will need a BFH (code for hammer) to help it out. Leave the nut finger tight so the UCA doesn't shoot out of knuckle right away. Some people say you can do this without removing the UCA but I just couldn't see how that could be done in my application. 4. If you're by yourself place a car jack under the knuckle, remove UCA ball joint nut and slowly lower front hub assembly, there should be plenty of room to remove the strut now. I used a jack stand to hold the hub assembly while I unscrewed the top nut on the strut and carefully remove it. Once the strut is out, loosely reattach the UCA to the hub so you can leave it for a while. 5. With a permanent marker, draw a line down the strut assembling marking everything. The line should be on the outside face of the strut assembly. This is your index line, when you transplant these pieces to your new strut they should all line up. If they don't you messed something up. 6. Now the dangerous stuff, install your McPherson spring compressors on the stock spring, try to grab coils that are far from each other as the spring will be easier to compress. Compressors should be 180 degrees from each other to ensure even loading. 7. Put on all your PPE, say a pray, and start tightening the spring compressors until you see a gap between spring and strut per mounts. Treat loaded springs like a gun, never point it at anyone and try not to drop it, jostle it, anything that could affect the compressors grip. Personal note, when I am doing dangerous stuff in my garage I either text someone letting them know what I am doing and text them after I am done or tell my wife if shes inside to check on me occasionally. 8. After you remove the king nut, open up the compressors, you can toss the springs. You will need to remove the upper assembly of the strut (top mount, bracket, spring boot, and bump stop). You will also need to remove the lower spring perch. Do this by gently tapping the perch towards the top of the strut to release it. PB blaster helps speed this up. 9. Prepare the Eibach struts. These are adjustable to dial in your final ride hide. In my application, when used with Eibach springs, the bottom level (lowest setting) will achieve a 2.5" lift up front. Snap ring was moved into the bottom grove and collar installed. The lower perch from OEM strut was installed. 10. There is a metal collar inside the yellow bump stop, pull this metal piece out and replace with the one supplied by Eibach. The shaft is bigger on Eibach struts so the collar needs to be upsized. 11. Dangerous part 2, install the compressors on your Eibach spring. Again try to grab coils that are far apart to ease the compression process. I believe the springs needed to be compressed 1/2" to fit on the strut. This was the most nerve wrecking part of this project. The compressors have seen better days. Those bends are pretty ugly. 12. Once compressed start lining up the strut, inside rubber boot, bracket, and top mount. Your line you drew earlier should all line up with the outside face of the strut. Make sure the bottom of the spring is fully seated on the perch plate. 13. Install top metal spacer/washer from OEM strut and new king nut provided by Eibach. Tighten down nut then your good to unload the springs. Once the springs compressors are removed the scary part for that strut is over. 14. Remove the nut on the UCA and reinstall your strut. Have at least one bottom strut mount bolt available so once you get the strut lined up, you can throw a bolt on the hole to keep things in place. 15. Reverse the beginning steps with the reassembly of the hub parts. You'll will need a pry bar braced on the spring to hold the UCA down firmly into the top of the hub so you can tighten the nut without the ball joint spinning. 16. Repeat on other side. 17. Take your truck for a quick test drive, if no noises or issues, take in for an alignment. 18. Take final measurements to confirm relatively even lift. Drivers side may be lower due to gas tank. Final thoughts on the upgrade: I am absolutely in love with the kit. I've been putting off replacing shocks for a while, so glad I finally did this project. Dare I say, Eibach MDFA? (Made Driving Fun Again...) Like I mentioned above, I was beginning to notice I was wincing before hitting big bumps because of how loosey-goosey my suspension had become since I bought it. The Eibach kit firmed up the ride noticeably. At slow speeds I do feel small bumps which is a given with monotubes, 20" wheels, and aggressive tires. At speed, the dampers turned those crazy earth shattering/dash destroying bumps on Chicago expressways into muffled bumps on the road. Also the dampers recover quickly. Driving into parking lots or steep driveways, my truck you to rock back and forth, now the truck rocks and correct quickly. No over correction. I would highly recommended this kit as an alternative to the Bilstein kit. If your looking to lift your truck, its hard to beat this package. Overall very happy with the kit and how it turned out. Excited to get some off road time this hunting season! I filmed the install and will be posting the video when its edited. Thanks! WF41
  2. Friday Funny

    This made me laugh! Found this on Facebook. Happy Friday! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  3. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Thanks for the comment on the video. I just sent an email this morning to them on this exact item. I would love a way to fix the lights into 1 mode (dim). The workaround for now is turn the lights on on your way to the truck so you can confirm settings. Not ideal but all things considered, we have cab lights and didn't drill huge holes in my brother in laws truck.. Hoping some of my electrical friends have some ideas how to modify the remotes to accomplish this!
  4. What have you done to your K2 today?

    I’m with you in the looks played a roll. I upgraded to the PML cover a few months back. The drain plug is nice and will be helpful with my “drive it into the ground 300k mile” plan for this truck. Mine doesn’t peak out too much with only a 1” lift in the rear Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  5. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Couldn’t be happier with how well the wireless cab lights went on! They match the Boost Auto switchbacks real well. Here's the link to the install, honestly really impressed with how well these guys installed. Pulled our the SLR for a better night show. iPhone night shot Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  6. What have you done to your K2 today?

    https://caboveramerica.com/ Yup, their is a tiny PV panel inside the lens. I haven't pulled them apart yet but will tonight when we install. The sharkfin will dictate the layout which is nice, this way there is only a few ways the lights can layout, better than have infinite options. We;ll get into analysis paralysis. Bingo! Guys, I'll follow up with the video on this one pretty quick. Lots of inquiries about it. These are going on the maroon Silverado on my channel. We just installed the BAP mirrors, these cab lights are to compliment his white DRL side marker lights.
  7. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Cab Over America wireless cab lights going on my brother in laws silverado tomorrow night. I was messing around with these after charging them today. Pretty sweet lights. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  8. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Lovebugs!!!! Hate’em! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  9. What have you done to your K2 today?

    In the final stretch of my a-pillar pod install. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  10. What have you done to your K2 today?

    They dragged their feet so long on getting the 6112’s out you think they’d be a little more cost competitive to the Eibach kit, is basically the same set up. Unless the Bils kit is made of unobtanium or gold... Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  11. What have you done to your K2 today?

    The one website i saw with them had them listed for $590 for just the front struts (no rear shocks). The whole Eibach kit which includes rear shocks is $586 at autoanything. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  12. What have you done to your K2 today?

    I agree 100%, it would be really nice to have a way to hook up a wired relay in your car to trigger the bluetooth ON function (or even better, plug into your obd). My BIL and I are looking into options.
  13. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Flooded with car parts this week, pretty pumped to install these on my brother in laws silverado to compliment his BAP tow mirrors. Wireless cab lights from Cab Over America. https://caboveramerica.com Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  14. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Soon I will, 2 parter, sdhq brackets in 1, how i wired everything in part 2. I agree I’m pretty pumped to see them all set up. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  15. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100

    Better that link than something else from your search history. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  16. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100

    More height adjustability up front, I can’t comment on performance of one over the other. Never had bils and won’t pretend I know everything about them. My experience with eibach pro truck kit was it was well worth the upgrade. Got a tasteful lift without spacers and have solid monotube shocks/struts. Regardless of brand get 1 price from Autoanything then shop it at realtruck. Might get some $$ knocked off. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  17. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100

    That’s a procomp kit not eibach. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  18. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100

    If you buy the kit without the springs you start at OEM heigh I’m lowest setting and I believe each of the steps in a .5-.75” increments up to 2”. With the springs in the lowest setting you start at 2.5”. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  19. Rancho RS9000XL vs Bilstein 5100

    Ranchos are out of the game. You have so many better options these days. Why not the Eibach sport truck kit? Similar to the bils but they come with new springs too. Adjustable just like the bils. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  20. What have you done to your K2 today?

    I have the amber drl’s tied into my parking lamps with a relay so when my lights come on at night the ambers will light up. Then a second relay for the actual spot LEDs which is tied into my brights. I’ve been eyeballing Amber drl/spot pods for a while. Had good luck with oz’s normal pods so figured I’d give these a go. I wish I could find a 32” light bar with the same back lighting as these pods. The amber color is an almost perfect match for the amber corners on my headlights. Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  21. What have you done to your K2 today?

    And we have light!!!! SDHQ brackets show up Tuesday, can’t wait to get it all pulled together! Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  22. This reminds my of circuits class (and the smell of burnt resistors).... Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  23. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Just locks and unlocks, no popping Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  24. What have you done to your K2 today?

    Too old or not drunk enough! http://www.popandlock.net/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=38&product_id=141 Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
  25. What have you done to your K2 today?

    A dance move... just kidding it’s an actuator that allows our tailgates to kick with our keyless system. Something that should be standard on every truck... Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork
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