hiking_mike

I have had several issues wiht the Transfer Case Encoder. 1. Check the Ground by the drivers side front door cab-frame mount. 2. Try pulling the fuse, the pink fuse for the transfer case, turn truck on, then back off, insert fuse and then do relearn. A. You should hear the encoder motor activate when doing the relearn. I have noticed you have to hold the selector dial for up to 45 seconds. 3. I took my other Duramax to a Dealer and they found some chaffing in some wires to the encoder and repaired them. 4. I haver talked to others and they have said if you ever get a windshiled repalced, sometimes water will leak down and mess up the Transfer Case Control Module.

I just looked in All Data for my 07 SIlverado 2500, the 2 sensors appear to be under the grill towards the left and right hand sides.

I forgot to mention, check the grounds. The main one is under drivers side door at the frame. I have an 07 LMM and ever since we got the windshield replaced, I think water ran down to the transfer case control module. I have a new pne, but cant seem to understand the pics in All Data as to where the transfercase module is. I looked and I cant seem to get in there to be able to see how to remove.

Sort of a common problem. First things I wold try. 1. Pull the fuse for the transfercase, this will be a pink fuse. 2. Do the transfercase reset-relearn: A. Turn key to the first click. B. Put transmission in N C. Set parking brake D. Turn the 4WD Selector all the way to the right and hold for abut 45 seconds. E. Then return switch to 2WD. F. turn key off and start truck and try 4WD and back to 2WD 3. Disconnect the connector to the transfercase and then reconnect.

After some research. I found out the 2.7 does not use the lifter means to disable clyinders like the v-8. Also, the cam shafts have 3 "profiles" and will shift causing the valves to open less. ... To better balance power output with fuel economy, the engine also has an innovative Sliding Cam Valve Lift System (SCS) that modifies camshaft timing under changing engine demand. The Sliding Cam Valve Lift System (SCS) has three distinct operating modes. The SCS system enables the ECM to change the camshaft lift profile of the intake and exhaust camshafts while the engine is running. The SCS has four intake camshaft profile actuators and two exhaust camshaft profile actuators that vary the camshaft lift profile sleeve position axially on the camshaft in response to commands from the ECM. Power Profile: High Lift — Full capacity, conventional lift and duration. In this profile, all four cylinders are active and all valves open to their maximum lift for when the full capability of the engine is needed. Economizer Profile: Low Lift — Reduced capacity (3 mm lift) changes the duration of the valve opening and closes the valve early. In this profile, all four cylinders are still active, but all intake valves open to a lower lift height to help save fuel under medium load conditions, such as highway driving. Ultimate Fuel Economy Profile: AFM — Cylinder deactivation, used for increased fuel economy in light load conditions, such as highway cruising. In Active Fuel Management (AFM) mode, cylinders 2 and 3 are deactivated.

I have worked on a few Dodge Stealth engines, while these are overhead cam engines, there is sort of a lifter. More of a dampener on the Single cam engine. They go upside down and inside the rocker arm. While the dual cam engine also has a larger "lifter" These engines always have "lifter tic" when they start to fail.

I was going off my brother was telling me, as he is in San Deigo. I was just now infomred the dealer repalced 16 rocker arms and what to me sounded like the rocker shaft. Is there what I would call a cam phaser, like ford engines have, the other part sounded to me like either an exhaust cam phaser, or something with the exhaust cam.

Sorry, pc was slow this morning. The dealer is wanting to install parts, But NOT willing to install a new motor., There WAS metal contamination in the oil, as the mechanic listed this in the notes. Just trying to determine what others have experienced with dealers when there is metal contamination in the oil with an engine under warranty. Also , all proper maintenance has been completed at the same dealer where the truck was bought, and currently being serviced.

Looking for info to help my older brother. He has a 2022 Silverado 1500 Custom with the 2.7 L engine. He was driving, parked, and started, got the "reduced power" warning light. He called for a tow truck and had to taken to the dealer where he bought it. Mechanic said it has lifter failure and metal in the oil. Question, The dealer wants to replace lifters and a few other parts but install a new engine. i always thought that metal particles in the oil always called for a rebuild due to bearing damage. Am I wrong, or what should my brother tell the shop.

You don't "have" to drain tank. The sending unit is on top of the tank. Draining just makes it easier to drop. However, I have two Duramax trucks. One had squirrel damage. It has a 3-inch body lift so while you could get to the fuel lines. The sending line was rusted and could not get it disconnected. So, we dropped the tank, installed new sending unit, and the short feed and return line. The other truck had a major leak in the return line that went into the cooler. Thus, purchased entire Dorman stainless lines, hopefully avoiding rodent damage to my second truck. If you go the Dorman, order online, it was about $1,000 cheaper than the local parts stores. You have to get the 2 short feed and return lines at the sending unit in addition to the single part # for the Dorman Fuel lines. Dorman 819-800 Rear Flexible Stainless Steel Braided Fuel Line Compatible with Select Chevrolet / GMC Models (OE FIX) Dorman 919-874 Front Stainless Steel Fuel Line Kit Compatible with Select Chevrolet / GMC Models (OE FIX)

If you watch your transmission temp guage, I believe about 185 you should begin to hear the fan clutch engage until the temp drops. Forgive me, since I removed the radiator and cleaned, I dont have the issues I used to and forgot the temps it used to kick in. You may hear the fan clutch on a cool damp morning for a few minutes or so. As for the cooling "stack" its nickname is called stack sometimes due to all the cooling devices mounted in succession. It the "radiator looking thing" is your intercooler. This cools the turbo charged airflow before it goes into intake of the engine. . The only way to really clan the radiator is to remove it. You are not going to really blow water from back towards the front very well at all.

from what I have read on other posts, I am leaning towards TCM. I read where someone send his to a rebuild shop due to the TCM's may still be on back order.

Make sure your transmission is in Tow Mode, I noticed in heavy traffic, and one time I forgot to activate and was suprssed how hot the transmission got so quickly. I have had to repalce the little push button that goes on the shift lever, as the wire shorted out. Removing the radiator was not too difficult. kind of a tight fit getting out.

I have a pair 07 2500's. I started noticing the transmissions would get close to the max of what I felt confortable with. We opened up the 'stack" or I mean We removed the radiator. What I first noticed is that the holes in the various devices as air passes through get smaller and smaller. The radiator is last, and has smallest, AC condnsor is largest. So bugs and debris wil pass through condensor, intercooler, then in to the radiator, where they get stuck and block air flow. Removing the radiator on both trucks, i noticed a lot of dead bugs, road grime, and debris. So using a lot degreasor and water hose, it took some effort to clean the raditor. I also u sed a power washer on low pressure making sure not to do a "sweeping action" in order to keep from messing up the fins. Then spraying what was left in the truck, the intercooler and condensor from back to frount, this cleand the intercooler and condensor, and transmission cooler. This made a HUGE difference in transmission and engine temps. I took a 7,000 camper all the way to Key West in July -August time frame. I went from having to slow down to about 60 and lots of stops to allow wverything to cool off to having no issues at all.

While on the topic of TCM's. Can someone confirm or deny or provide insight into using OEM and Non OEM Serpentine belts. I was informed by multiple shops that using a non OEM belt can generate static electricity. Given the proximity of the TCM to the belt, this static electricity can cause damage to the TCM. By using the OEM belt, no static charges will be generated.

I recently got a code from th e dealer in regards to the Air Bag System. It was low voltage. I removed the seat and saw the module was covered in wet sand and the carpet padding was soaked. To may trips to the lake and the beach. I think the rubber floor mats just let any water run under the seat under accelaration. Anyway, I found the same part # at a U Pull Yard. I checked the connections and replaced the module, after disconneting the Neg batterty cables for 30 min. The error is still on the display. I see from All Data, that the "set up SDM via the special functions" via a GM tech-2 scanner needs to be completed. Has anyone replaced the air bag control module before, if so, was the BCM update required. Asking to see if the module is picked up is also bad.

Looking like the air bag module under the front drivers seat went bad. It got wet and internally shorting out. I have a salvage yard replacment that is NOT from a wrecked truck. So no air bag deployment. Question. Do I have to do any programmingetc after replacement. Also, the batteries have been out for 2 m onths while in short term storage. Thanks,

I have an 07 2500HD, recently had the Service Air Bag light: Dealer said Code b1000 per #pit4872b, after detecting low voltage. Does this sound like a ground or corrosion on the conenctor at the air bag module under the drivers seat. The recall air bag was completed and the code did not go away. FYI, the truck just recently started experiencing a battery drain that I am trying to track down also.

I did an oil change and filter change after running some stiction eliminator for 500 miles. Then another oil test with about 500 miles as a bench mark test. No Potassium at all and the oxidation dropped back to normal. Not sure if I had a contaminated test sample or what. I can post the most recent tet results when I get back home and look at the result sheet.

When talking to the oil analysis people with Hot Shots Secrete. They stated that I should really start to plan to investigate after a second oil test. They also stated that Potassium in oil normally indicates coolant in the oil. The good test was no Glycol was present. As they explained, the leak could be very minimal and possibly only sporadically. My main concern is if anyone is familiar with a reading of about 250 parts per million of potassium, as how actually large or small a possible coolant leak could be. I have another test result that should be received in a week or so. I plan on taking the truck to a dealer that would have better leak down test equipment than I have, in an attempt to see if they can rule out where any coolant leak could be. Glycol in the oil is the main culprit of causing damage to the engine. So if there is a leak, hopefully catching before any real damage is caused.

I have an 07 LMM Duramsx with 180k miles. Always changed the fluids when the wear life indicator shows 50%. I habve been sending in an anual oil analysis for a few years. Recently, I changed from Delvac to Synthetic Delvac 15w-40, with HOT SHots FR-3. Anyway, my last test showed 250 parts per million of Potasium. I have not added collant for almost a year. I did a pressure test and the truck held presure for 15 min. I did a test for exhaust gases in coolant and it was neg. My question, is how bad is 250 PPM. I am not sure if I may have contanimated the funnel, etc or skewed the test results somehow. I have oredered a new test kit, changed oil and put in no additives,.I will do a test every 1000 miles and pay atention to carefully keeping the test sample clean. Any thoughts where most possible leake location. EGR cooler, water pump, head gaskets, intake gasket. I have an appoitment in 2 weeks at my local GM shop to see if they can locate any possible location for any coolant contamination of the oil. Any additional thoughts

Was the wire nut stripping or the actual glow plug. Did you try a 6 point 1/4 socket. I also got in there with ratcheting wrench. man, you do not want to strip. I say keep soaking and try when engine is warm. I have also sceen videos where they use an impact hammer to vibrate-break loose the glow plug and use a wrench or socket to remove.

If Deep Creep isn't helping. Try a mixtgure of 50/50 of acetone and transmission fluid in an old fasion hand pump oil dispensor. I have changed all 8 glow plugs on 2 different LMM's. If you take your time. Remove inner fender liner and the wheel. You can gain access. I bought a specialized set of universal/ Glow Plug sockets and ratcheting box end wrencehes and had no issues.

I have replaced / removed-installed many front CV-shafts on Silverado trucks. 2006 gas, 2007.5 Duramax. The base of the cv shaft always has fit flush against the diff. Now te front drivers side has a little stub shaft between the cv and the diff. however, both left and right sides are interchangeable. I did a 7" BDS Lift on a 2006 1500 and even with the increased "Z" reading, and a plastic spacer, the CV fit flush to the diff. Question, how is the cv "centered", does it "wobble" as not 100 % parallel on the centerline. There is no Circ-Clip on the cv shaft and it just slids into the diff splines. Are left and right the same. I suggest remove CV shaft and compare measurements against a new shaft.

Hooked up scanner. Shutting off Injector # 2 and the noise almost went away completely. Injector 5 seemed to make no engine idle difference with injector on or off. Noise was on the drivers side and at the top of the head, near injector. Used an electronic stethoscope. Next step. Will replace injectors # 2 & 5. Look into the chamber with a scope with the injector removed to see if any damage or signs of something hitting, etc.