kxdan01

SVT COBRA Wheel/Tire/Brake Upgrades: I’ve always hated the stock Cobra wheels because they’re not so great to look at but mainly because they’re not very wide and the factory offset makes them appear to “tuck” under the Fenderwell and the pitiful little 245/45/17 Tires all around are just too weak looking. So, I got a set of “Black Chrome” Cobra R Wheels which are 9” Wide Up Front & 11” Wide in the Rear. I went with Mickey Thompson ET Street Drag Radials In size 335/35/ZR18 in the back to control this little toy’s bad habit of spinning and breaking loose on me at all speeds plus I like to hit the track on the weekends to Drag Race the LS Powered Guys & the Hemi Crowd Too. These ET Street Drag Radials bite like Gorilla Glue on the street and at the track. I switched to 4.30 Gears a while back and that didn’t help my traction issues to say the least but I knew the wheels & tires would be next and my how they helped! I launch it at 5800-6000 RPM at the track and my 60’ times are now down a few tenths to 1.48-1.56 on average but if I don’t do my part my 60’ times aren’t great at around 1.90-2.10 but that doesn’t happen as long as my air pressure is right and the tires are hot/clean. I went ahead and added drilled/slotted rotors from EBay which were cheap but honestly lookas good as the Brembo/Baer Rotors I used on my Truck and on the front of the 93 Mustang LX Coupe(“Notch”/“Trunk”). These are Zinc Plated/Coated so they never get the rusty look even if they sit for a while. I went ahead and painted the calipers red and the “COBRA” lettering on the calipers white so everything stands out now and it makes the car look much better. Not to mention, it handles 10X Better with the much wider tires which are about 11.5” on the back compared to about 8.5”, the front tires were 245/45/17 which were about 8”-8.5” Wide and now are 275/40/17’s which are about 9.5”-10” Wide on the new 9.5”. It’s like driving a track day car now, to me anyway. I went with Hawk Brake Pads on all 4 Corners and upgraded the stock brake hoses from the main lines to the calipers with stainless steel lines and red line fully synthetic/high temp brake fluid. This was so worth it and I did it on the cheap, the wheels and tires were used, and I picked up all but the caliper paint on eBay for a fraction of their cost elsewhere- so it changed the looks for the better, improved handling dramatically, and improved braking performance some but not so much considering The fact that the car already had the big 13” inch front rotors and 11.65” inch rear rotors, now they’re just slotted and the fluid didn’t make any difference and I can fill of coarse as I didn’t really expect you to but I could tell a slight difference that was actually worth the effort of installing the stainless steel brake lines. I really enjoyed being able to dump the clutch and actually take off and go, it’s so violent at the track if feels like it’s going to rip your guts out and even does that on the street when the tires are hot and the pavement is fairly new or at least not old is hell! I do believe this little and Deavor cost be about 850 bucks but that includes the tires wheels brake lines fluid and drilled/slotted rotors- This would’ve been so much more but I got the tires and wheels barely used and traded my stock cobra wheels with new tires and $500 for the black chrome wheels and the huge m/t 335/35/17 drag radials along with the new front tires Was your Nitto NT555 Extremes. I just got incredibly lucky when I ran across a friend of a friend who needed a little bit of cash and just happened to want a set of stock wheels and I was in the right place at the right time. Now there’s nothing left to do to the car as it had has had damn near everything upgraded that can be upgraded and all performance modifications that can be done without spending really insane money are in place. If I do anything else it will have to be the four comp cams Required as it is a DOHC engine with two camshaft in each cylinder head plus the valve springs and the rest of the valve train which will cost about $2000 minimum. That’s a joke as I just don’t see myself doing that when I coullf just go for the Gold and install a single turbo kit which can be done for around the same price and I’ll get my friend to adjust the tune accordingly and that’ll be it but I’m not too concerned about that right now. Damn gas, you have to forgive me for the links of this post because I am just talking to the phone and letting it type the word for me so it went a little overboard ?