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Jdkno

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About Jdkno

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  1. So Tbarn, would you care to share the part numbers or were you just putting that up there as a kind of "look what I can do"
  2. So I guess I need to find somone with GM account access to get the part numbers for the pieces in the image above.
  3. I looked it up on GM parts direct but when I go to 19 sierra the picture that comes up looks like the front off my 17 and the part #5 shows 2016-2019. So I'm taking it that is for the 19 limited, not the 19 NBS trucks. Unless I'm looking in the wrong place it us coming up under the body/aero category. The picture that Tbarn posted is exactly it. This part is the same on all trims with towhooks. If you could post up the number you found so
  4. That's exactly it. There's one on each side. Can you give the PN for both.
  5. On the 19-20 Sierras that come WITHOUT front tow hooks there is a solid black plastic block off plate that covers the hole. On the trucks that come WITH tow hooks this block off plate has a hole cut into it that the tow hooks go through. I am trying to find the part number for the filler piece WITH the holes cut into it for the tow hooks to go through. I thought I tracked it down but the part I ordered is like a large cup that the hooks go through but it did NOT include the filler plate with the cutout in it. The filler plate attaches directly to the back of the bumper then the cup shaped piece I ordered goes behind that. I need the part that attaches to the backside of the bumper. Mine came without hooks but I added them I had to remove the solid filler plate and it leaves a huge gap around the hooks without that piece installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. If you have Bose you are limited to the 19417164 kit.
  7. I had an extra that wasn't plugged into anything. When I was looking at it, I believe it is only used when you get the system for the trucks without Bose that has the additional amp and DSP. I just electrical taped over the connector and buried it with the rest of the wires. I can say for the $450 or so I spent on it I'm pleased with it. I actually have to dial it down on some tracks. I'm running a system in my car that has PPI Art series amps Hertz components and JL subs and yeah the kicker is not in the same league but I also dont expect it to transform my truck's stock system into what I have in my car. It's all about managing expectations. If anyone installed the kicker sub and it does not shake your rearview to the point of not being able to see out of it I highly suggest you check your install.
  8. So I received mine today and tossed the box into the truck just to have a place for it right now. I know the instruction say to cut the rubber floor liner but man I really dont want to do that. Has anyone installed without cutting the liner? Any issues? Did you install without cutting only to go back and cut afterwards for any reason?
  9. The JL box, while undoubtedly far superior, is 3 times the cost just for the box. Then you add an amp, and the wiring and your probably at 4 times the cost. In addition to the cost you have to consider the rest of the system. Ince you add 2 12's with decent power what do you do about the highs? Your either going to have to turn the JL way down or start replacing door/dash speakers and adding amps to power them.
  10. Are you sure it's taking its signal from front left? I am going to have to dig up the wiring schematic, I thought sure the yellow/yellow w/ black tracer was the sub wires on the previous gen trucks. If it is truly taping the front left I'm wondering if it would sound any better/different tapping into the Bose subwoofer vs taping into the front left speaker wire??
  11. You lost me on this one. I would think it is speaker level inputs as you are tapping speaker wires for the signal to the amp you have now. No wires should go to the head unit and there is no DSP, it's just a sub amp that you were showing.
  12. Cant be but a handful of wires. Should be pretty easy to figure out.
  13. You'd be better off just buying one of the RF micro mono amps that have the ability to add a gain knob. Wiring might not be exact but the connections you need should be there so it would be just a little cut and connect.
  14. As in adding a sub amp to add a different sub or a amp for the door/dash speakers? If your looking for a way to add a sub amp it would work pretty much the exact way the GM system does. Power, ground, and tap the same wires for a signal. Alot of guys run the signal through an Audio Control Lc2i before the amp. I am on the fence between the GM kicker system and just adding a component sub using an Audio Control ACM 1.300 amp which is a 300x1 amp with the Lc2i built in. If your looking for a way to amp the highs it's going to get alot more complicated if you start off with the Bose system. At that point I would suggest some sort of signal summing to the amps input then you could probably go from the amp to the wires you disconnect from the bose amp to save the trouble of running wires all over through the truck.
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