I had an extra that wasn't plugged into anything. When I was looking at it, I believe it is only used when you get the system for the trucks without Bose that has the additional amp and DSP. I just electrical taped over the connector and buried it with the rest of the wires. I can say for the $450 or so I spent on it I'm pleased with it. I actually have to dial it down on some tracks. I'm running a system in my car that has PPI Art series amps Hertz components and JL subs and yeah the kicker is not in the same league but I also dont expect it to transform my truck's stock system into what I have in my car. It's all about managing expectations. If anyone installed the kicker sub and it does not shake your rearview to the point of not being able to see out of it I highly suggest you check your install.
So I received mine today and tossed the box into the truck just to have a place for it right now. I know the instruction say to cut the rubber floor liner but man I really dont want to do that. Has anyone installed without cutting the liner? Any issues? Did you install without cutting only to go back and cut afterwards for any reason?
The JL box, while undoubtedly far superior, is 3 times the cost just for the box. Then you add an amp, and the wiring and your probably at 4 times the cost. In addition to the cost you have to consider the rest of the system. Ince you add 2 12's with decent power what do you do about the highs? Your either going to have to turn the JL way down or start replacing door/dash speakers and adding amps to power them.
Are you sure it's taking its signal from front left? I am going to have to dig up the wiring schematic, I thought sure the yellow/yellow w/ black tracer was the sub wires on the previous gen trucks. If it is truly taping the front left I'm wondering if it would sound any better/different tapping into the Bose subwoofer vs taping into the front left speaker wire??
You lost me on this one. I would think it is speaker level inputs as you are tapping speaker wires for the signal to the amp you have now. No wires should go to the head unit and there is no DSP, it's just a sub amp that you were showing.
You'd be better off just buying one of the RF micro mono amps that have the ability to add a gain knob. Wiring might not be exact but the connections you need should be there so it would be just a little cut and connect.
As in adding a sub amp to add a different sub or a amp for the door/dash speakers? If your looking for a way to add a sub amp it would work pretty much the exact way the GM system does. Power, ground, and tap the same wires for a signal. Alot of guys run the signal through an Audio Control Lc2i before the amp. I am on the fence between the GM kicker system and just adding a component sub using an Audio Control ACM 1.300 amp which is a 300x1 amp with the Lc2i built in. If your looking for a way to amp the highs it's going to get alot more complicated if you start off with the Bose system. At that point I would suggest some sort of signal summing to the amps input then you could probably go from the amp to the wires you disconnect from the bose amp to save the trouble of running wires all over through the truck.
@BLACK AT4 Any chance you could toss up a few pics of the 17 sub in your 19. I would much rather keep the sub under the single fold up seat as I use the floor with the larger portion folded up a good bit. Even if it means replacing the amp with something like a RF micro to get more adjustability like the 19 system has. Trying to see what it looks like with seat up and down.
Why not just wrap the one that's already on your truck? Any decent shop could knock that out in an hour or so, if you dont like the outcome or if you want to go back to factory just peel it off.
I cant find them in silver either. The worst part is the primed version isnt that much cheaper than the painted ones. By the time you buy primed and pay for paint you'd probably spend a good bit more than the preprinted ones.
Not sure how it would work on our trucks with the fob but I know police units used to have a switch they could flip, turn the key to off, pull the key and get out and it would keep the unit running indefinitely. Might call around to some shops that work on emergency vehicles. If your looking for a solution through factory GM hardware I'm sorry but your probably not going to find it. I haven't tried it but I do not think the truck will lock with a fob still inside.
I believe it's one of the exclusive through certain retailers tire. Similar to how Cooper puts out the RTX to certain retailers only. I agree looks like a duratrac, more than likely at a lower price point.
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