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Does anyone know the impedance of the kicker sub? I am having an issue where the amp intermittently shuts off. Sometimes for only a few seconds sometimes for a few minutes. I'm thinking I might just replace the amp but finding the kicker amp that comes with the system has been a lesson in futility. I need to know the ohm load of sub in order to pick the correct amp.

If you have Bose you are limited to the 19417164 kit.

I had an extra that wasn't plugged into anything. When I was looking at it, I believe it is only used when you get the system for the trucks without Bose that has the additional amp and DSP. I just electrical taped over the connector and buried it with the rest of the wires. I can say for the $450 or so I spent on it I'm pleased with it. I actually have to dial it down on some tracks. I'm running a system in my car that has PPI Art series amps Hertz components and JL subs and yeah the kicker is not in the same league but I also dont expect it to transform my truck's stock system into what I have in my car. It's all about managing expectations. If anyone installed the kicker sub and it does not shake your rearview to the point of not being able to see out of it I highly suggest you check your install.

So I received mine today and tossed the box into the truck just to have a place for it right now. I know the instruction say to cut the rubber floor liner but man I really dont want to do that. Has anyone installed without cutting the liner? Any issues? Did you install without cutting only to go back and cut afterwards for any reason?

The JL box, while undoubtedly far superior, is 3 times the cost just for the box. Then you add an amp, and the wiring and your probably at 4 times the cost. In addition to the cost you have to consider the rest of the system. Ince you add 2 12's with decent power what do you do about the highs? Your either going to have to turn the JL way down or start replacing door/dash speakers and adding amps to power them.

Are you sure it's taking its signal from front left? I am going to have to dig up the wiring schematic, I thought sure the yellow/yellow w/ black tracer was the sub wires on the previous gen trucks. If it is truly taping the front left I'm wondering if it would sound any better/different tapping into the Bose subwoofer vs taping into the front left speaker wire??

You lost me on this one. I would think it is speaker level inputs as you are tapping speaker wires for the signal to the amp you have now. No wires should go to the head unit and there is no DSP, it's just a sub amp that you were showing.

Cant be but a handful of wires. Should be pretty easy to figure out.

You'd be better off just buying one of the RF micro mono amps that have the ability to add a gain knob. Wiring might not be exact but the connections you need should be there so it would be just a little cut and connect.

As in adding a sub amp to add a different sub or a amp for the door/dash speakers? If your looking for a way to add a sub amp it would work pretty much the exact way the GM system does. Power, ground, and tap the same wires for a signal. Alot of guys run the signal through an Audio Control Lc2i before the amp. I am on the fence between the GM kicker system and just adding a component sub using an Audio Control ACM 1.300 amp which is a 300x1 amp with the Lc2i built in. If your looking for a way to amp the highs it's going to get alot more complicated if you start off with the Bose system. At that point I would suggest some sort of signal summing to the amps input then you could probably go from the amp to the wires you disconnect from the bose amp to save the trouble of running wires all over through the truck.

@BLACK AT4 Any chance you could toss up a few pics of the 17 sub in your 19. I would much rather keep the sub under the single fold up seat as I use the floor with the larger portion folded up a good bit. Even if it means replacing the amp with something like a RF micro to get more adjustability like the 19 system has. Trying to see what it looks like with seat up and down.

Do you have a part number on that piece?

Not sure how it would work on our trucks with the fob but I know police units used to have a switch they could flip, turn the key to off, pull the key and get out and it would keep the unit running indefinitely. Might call around to some shops that work on emergency vehicles. If your looking for a solution through factory GM hardware I'm sorry but your probably not going to find it. I haven't tried it but I do not think the truck will lock with a fob still inside.

Nice. I did mine too with Carbon fiber. Looks killer when the light hits and makes the silver part of the carbon fiber stand out.

Not really. I have 2 long drives per day ~40 miles each to and from my office. My day starts with me making fairly short drives for the better part of the morning until I head to my office a little before lunch.

Not saying anything one way or the other, this is just my experience. My 17 had 86k on it when I traded it in for my 19 about 2 weeks ago. Never had a single engine issue and it was only at the dealer once about 2 months ago for an AC issue and fixing the chime volume. I changed the oil when the DIC was showing between 10-15%, and checked the dipstic every 2 weeks or so. The dipstic NEVER read below the full mark. Unless I was a rare exception I cant see how I had any oil left between changes listening to what people are supposedly getting out of the can on a weekly basis. If you do the math I'm putting alot more miles per week on my truck than most.

My Sierra SLT has the same wood and chrome trim on the back doors as it does on the front. My rear sills are just like yours though, black plastic with no trim. You could probably try to track down the GMC rear door pull trims, I'd have to imagine LTZ's come with the same rear pull trim as my SLT.

Not on the newer GMC's. I believe we can program keys bit not the RKE fob.

I plan on tapping the puddle light when I do my step lights. It makes the most sense. They will only come on when needed and no other system will turn them on.

Any updates on the measurements?

Can you get a side shot showing how far down from the bottom of the cab they sit? I like them better than just about every step I've seen just wish they would have added some curves to them like ford did for the raptor steps.

Ding...ding...ding.. we have a winner. If the top of both wheel wells are level the truck will look nose high. You have to measure top of hood and top of bedrail then look at how much to lift the front.

Your not going to be able to use the headlight wire for power. You will use the headlight wire to power the relay, power for the fogs should come from the battery. What you will need to do is tap a headlight wire for the turn on lead for the relay, switch will go in line with that wire so you retain the ability to completely shut them down if you want to. So if your working with a standard SPST relay: tap headlight wire run that to one leg of switch, from other leg of switch to relay pin 86. Power from battery + to pin 87 on relay, run the main power from the fogs to pin 30 on the relayear and ground relay pin 85. That's pretty much it, obviously the fogs will need to be grounded and if your switch is illuminated you would have a ground leg on that as well to deal with.