There are alot of people out there telling how to do something, everyone has their own ideas and this is just how I did it. To do the basic LED switch, and I'm just talking about my 15, because it's the only one I have done. I think in 16 they changed sockets, maybe not until 17? , and I haven't really looked at the GMC, but I think the basics should be similar. I have a 2015 Silverado SCLB LT, two turn signal bulbs on each side, front and back. Someone on this forum said you need a resistor for each bulb, and I found that to be true. I thought to myself "this is gonna suck" because I didn't want to splice into each bulb with a resistor. Wiring in these resistors is just a work around to "fool" the BCM, so it doesn't think there is a bulb out and turn on a warning telling you so. You would think there would be some computer guy out there that could make a software program and you could plug your laptop into your truck and change the settings that control the lights. My DiabloSport hand held tuner can change my PCM & TCM, so what gives? What ever happened to the ole' flasher? Anyway, So here's what I did. One end of the resistor has to go to power, the other end goes to ground. It does not matter which end goes where... On the front, I ran two resistors in parallel, two wires down to one and spliced into the 6 pin connectors on each side of the shroud. One wire spliced into the turn signal power wire. The other ends of the 2 resistors, I did the same way, 2 wires into 1, and ran that wire to the body ground located on the firewall. Works great. Mounted my resistors on the inner fender, easy to get to. Two resistors for each side, just ran a wire to the right side and spliced into the 6 pin connector over there. Run the other end of the resistors to the stud. Note: These resistors get hot, so you should mount them to metal and not let them touch things that will melt. I tried to use just one resistor, no go, still hyperflash, you have to use two. I didn't try to wire them in series, since I found wiring in parallel works. I found that you really only need one wire going to the connector, the hot side of the turn signal, and the other end of the resistor can be grounded anywhere that is ground, even if you have to make the wire longer to get there. You don't have to wire the ground to the ground wire at the 6 pin connector going to the bulb is what I'm saying. You can, but you don't have to, make it easy on yourself. Many years ago when I was young 1977, I was in school for automotive technology, a fancy way to say grease monkey. The first class I had was automotive electric, where we were going to learn about starters, alternators, points and condenser etc., and the first words out of the teacher's mouth was very loud... "Ground is ground is ground, until it isn't ground, then it isn't ground ! and never forget that". My classmates all looked at each other and said WTF? This old guy is talking crazy. But all it really means is that all ground wires end up in the same place, the negative side of the battery, and I have never forgotten that. In my years of experience, I have found that probably 75% of all light problems are caused by a bad ground. The rest have a loose "bad" connection, or something that isn't ground. So don't use scotch locks to make your connections. Yes they are quick and easy, but they will only cause problems later. Make good solder connections, and use quality, adhesive lined, shrink tube to seal out moisture. So, back to the subject. One splice for each corner instead of four. On my 2015 Front left turn 6 pin connector X110 wire was BU/WH Front right turn 6 pin connector X120 wire was GN/VT ---Check the wiring diagram for your truck ! The right side connector is a pain, you have to remove the air filter box to get to it, and also to replace the bulbs. On both sides you can get to the bulbs through a small opening on the inner fender. The same thing can be done for the rear turn signals with two bulbs on each side...there is a junction block just to the left of the spare tire, one wire one splice, then just find a good ground. Both wires for rear turn lights were D-GN but in different connectors. Rear left turn junction block X63A connector X2 Rear right turn junction block X63A connector X3 ---Check the wiring diagram for your truck ! Rear resistors mounted to reese hitch, single wire to junction box plug. Other end going to ground. I made my own ground with other LED going to it with no ill effects. To get to the rear turn signal bulbs and back up light, you must remove the tail light housing. With the tail gate down you will see 2 screws to remove, then carefully pull the housing straight back. There are clips on the very end that fit into holes in the bed, that I broke when removing the housing, that are replaceable... GM part # 22876572, good luck. TEST ALL THE BULBS BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM BACK IN THE HOUSING. If they do not work take them out of the socket and turn 180 degrees and push back in to the socket and try again. Most LED's are polar. I had no trouble replacing the rest with LED, I also did the center cargo light and center brake light, same bulbs as backup lights in the tail lights. I like to try and find the best deals on stuff, and for my money eBay is the place to go. So here is a list of the stuff I used. You can copy and paste the description into search on eBay and they should come up. Many different sellers, so shop around. Resistors - you'll need 8, they come as a pack of 10. $11.99 - Free Shipping 10pcs 50W 6 ohm Load Resistor Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal w/ T-Tap ( I haven't looked, but someone may make a 100W 12 ohm resistor to flash 2 bulbs? ) Turn signals front and rear, on my truck, use the same bulb, they come as a pack of 10. These bulbs are all white, you need 8. My lenses are solid amber in front and solid red in rear...no clear at all. $18.99 - Free Shipping 10x White 7443 7440 T20 33-SMD RV Camper Turn Signal Stop Light Bulbs 12V-24V Back up lights, center cargo and brake, you'll need 5. They come as a pack of 2. Wish I coulda found a better deal on these. $11.39 - Free Shipping - Total $34.17 AUXITO 912 921 LED Backup Light Bulbs 1000 Lumens High Power 2835 15-SMD Chipset License plate lights come as a pack of 10, don't know what I'm going to do with the other 8. $8.54 - Free Shipping AUXITO 10x T10 20 SMD LED White Super Bright Car Lights Bulb - 194,168,2825,W5W Auxiliary Back up lights pack of 10. These are bright. Put them in the step. $9.99 - Free Shipping 10x23mm Eagle Eye 12SMD 4014 LED White Back Up Reverse Daytime Running Light Marker lights pack of 30, 10 red, 10 amber, 10 white. ( I used a couple of the white ones on the inside kick panels to light up the floor boards) $19.95 - Free Shipping 30X Red Amber White 12V 3/4" Round Marker Light Clearance 3 LED Bullet US Ship These bulbs are cross referenced part numbers I got from my OWNERS Manual. Yours may be different. Hopefully these lights are all of good quality and will last a long time. These lights look better in real life than my crappy photography shows...... Hope this helps, and good luck to those who try this.
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Fantastic idea for those of you with 2016+ trucks with those sockets, very clean. Are the rear sockets like the front? Did you mount the resistor somewhere? They get hot and you don't want them touching plastic or other wiring or just flopping around. I found that you really only need one wire going to the socket, the hot side, and the other end of the resistor can be grounded anywhere that is ground, even if you have to make the wire longer to get there. You don't have to wire the ground to the ground wire going to the bulb is what I'm saying. I have a 2015, two turn signal bulbs on each side. Someone on this forum said you need a resistor for each bulb, and I found that to be true, I tried just one for two bulbs, didn't work, hyperflash still. So I ran two resistors in parallel, two wires down to one and spliced into the 6 pin connector. One wire spliced into the turn signal power wire, the other end of the resistors, did the same and ran that wire to the body ground located on the firewall. Works great. Mounted my resistors on the inner fender, easy to get to. You could probably do the same for your set up and only have to drill one hole in your socket. Two resistors for each side, just ran a wire to the right side and spliced into the 6 pin connector over there. Good solid solder joint. I wouldn't use the scotch locks they send with the resistors. Run the other end of the resistors to the stud. The same thing can be done for the rear turn signals with two bulbs on each side...there is a junction block just to the left of the spare tire, one wire one splice, then just find a good ground. Rear resistors mounted to reese hitch, single wire to junction box plug. Other end going to ground. Made my own ground, I have some other led's grounded to the same stud with no ill effects.
I noticed the same on my 2015...mine is taped, yes I said taped, to the white thing that is zip tied to the wiring harness. You would think they could find a better place for it and secure it a little more professionally.
Yes, it could very well be in the drive train, especially if you have a carrier bearing. Crawl under and push up and down on the drive shaft near the u-joints look for movement, and at carrier bearing if you have one. And of course look for damage to the drive shaft tube. Hope this helps
Yea, old fashioned pick-up. Did some light work to it over the weekend. Put on some marker lights and I too was about to cry when I was drilling holes in my truck Front Markers Put some led back up lights in the step, worked out well. I usually back into my garage, the regular bulb back ups just weren't bright enough. Did the back-up light / cargo light mod and put led's in, now I can light up the neighborhood. Of course I needed rear markers. And I thought what the hell, might as well put some on the inside too. I don't know why Chevy doesn't put some lights on the floor board ? Now inside lights up nice. These aren't the bright ones like I put on the rear step, I think these are 3watt and the ones on the step are 15 watt. At least that's what the package said.... Now I'm waiting on some resistors to arrive so I can put led's in the parking and turn signals.
Here's what I did. I wanted mine to work in both positions, come on in reverse and with the switch the back up lights would light. So all I needed was a wire that would fit and not fall out. It's a paper clip with a piece of shrink tube on it bent in a "U" so you can push it in there. Guys were having trouble with the diode because the wire is too thin, you only need about a half an inch of wire exposed. As far as it being dark out for them to come on with the fob...that's true...or you could just cover the light sensor in the middle of the dash. I put some bright led's in the step too.
RED TRUCK CLUB I like it. Nice rides guys/gals. Wow the old 86 brings back memories. Before computers took completely over. Had a 2008 short bed like Grumpy's, yes it was red, traded for this 2015, with a few more bells and whistles.
Your dipstick has 2 marks on it. The lower one is the "add" mark and the top one is the "full" mark, and the space in between is the operating range. If your oil level is in the operating range you are OK. I would think it would almost be impossible to get it exactly on the full mark, and keep it there for 5000 miles. If after checking it later on, say 1000 miles, the oil level is not in the operating range, either high or low, then you may have a problem. IMO the brand of oil used is what ever brand makes you feel good. I think is like the gasoline we use...it's all made in the same place and just has different labels put on it.
Old School Mechanic replied to No Coast Rider's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsI got catbacks from MBRP for my 2015 for less than $600.00. Delivered to my house in 4 days. Looked around and compared to the thousand dollar ones, didn't see too much difference. Real easy to install, fit perfect, and I think they sound really good when you get on it. Not too loud puttin' around town or in the neighborhood. Stainless, pretty sure lifetime warranty. Got them from Summit Racing. Search for: MBRP XP Series Exhaust System S5084409 This P/N goes straight out the back. I think they make them to come out behind rear tires also? I'm satisfied with my purchase.
It's embedded in the mp3 file itself. The easiest way I've found to do it is by using iTunes. Open the file in iTunes and you can add pictures to your mp3 file, any picture you want. If you want to put an album cover in it, google the band, select images, find the picture you want, save it to a computer file. Open the mp3 in iTunes and where it says "add artwork", click it and find the picture on your computer. iTunes will go back to the same folder where you saved the picture, so when you are ready to do another one, put all your album covers in the same folder. The best pictures are 500 x 500 pixels or better. Try to get a square picture, or crop one to make the top bottom and sides equal. You can also edit the band, album, year etc. It's a little work, but it's better than looking at the music note all the time. Like I said you can even put pictures of your family and friends on an mp3 song. Just crop the pic down to about a 500 x 500 and it will look great. You can download iTunes for free. Import all your songs to it and arrange everything.
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