Yep, the difference is this: This job pays 1.9 hrs by the TSB. A tech who's never done one, he's going to struggle to beat that time, which is the name of the game. So your mileage may vary, with regards to quality. Also, while the TSB suggests the Kent sealer, it also says that's basically just a suggestion and there are other products.....which essentially means "use whatever you want". Now it so happens I always carry the Kent and IMO it's the best choice....but other places might well use whatever silicone they have on hand. However, if they call in an outside vendor like me, or a glass company: That's what we DO. So we're naturally going to do it faster and better than any tech does, because we do this all the time. I'm a trained tech...went to community college back in the day, trained on engines, transmissions, etc. I can rebuild your transmission for you....eventually. And it might work. But a tranny guy will run rings around me doing the same thing, and the quality will be much better. That's what he does. Same concept with this.
By far, the main issue with Explorer sunroofs as far as operationally, is the sunroof motor going bad. And it goes bad because of a water leak. Drains get stopped up, motor is in the left front, water spills over into the motor and kills it. The tracks themselves, I've only replaced a few. They really don't come in for the track itself being broke. But the motors, that's almost every other one with a leak.
Not bad. You take the 2 coat hooks loose. Remove the C pillars. Pop the headliner down, you have to kind of get your hands up over the headliner and "help" the clips break free for the overhead light. Then you just kind of bend it down and you can get at the bolts/nuts. The TSB says replace the nuts, because the new nuts have new sealer on them...I guess they don't trust random techs all over the country to put new sealer on the old nuts, lol. But if you have enough sense to reseal the nuts, you don't need the new ones. Plus, I seal the holes from the outside while I have it off. Just makes sense to me. To seal the nuts on the inside, (which I still do even though I also seal it on the outside) I use 3M Windo Weld Ribbon Sealer, 08612. Just clip off a small piece and kind of wrap it around the stud, then run the nuts down and it's sealed forever. To prep the "channel" at the top of the window for sealer, I take a folded up blue (can get them anywhere) shop paper towel soaked in brake cleaner. Push it down in the gap and use a screwdriver or plastic interior tool to run it back and forth to get all the dirt. Note: No matter what you use for solvent, do NOT get it on the outside of the plastic trim over the sliding glass. The shiny part. It will dull it and it won't ever be shiny again. So don't let your paper towel touch that. Otherwise, it won't hurt the paint or the glass.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/rear-window-loose-leaking-431738/ https://www.f150forum.com/f118/2015-f150-fx4-supercrew-rear-window-leaking-326564/ Multiple other links for window leaks in that thread https://www.f150forum.com/f2/2015-lariat-rear-sliding-window-leak-310443/ https://www.f150forum.com/f12/rear-power-sliding-window-top-track-loose-418676/ https://www.f150forum.com/f118/sliding-window-gap-453048/ I could keep going, but trust me when I tell you, "it's a thing". Might not be as bad as the GM truck windows, but it's significant.
It IS kind of a bandaid.....HOWEVER: If you take the time and do it with with the Kent Hi Tech Clear sealer, it should last a LONG time. Kent is great stuff. But you have to either be familiar with it as I am, or take a little extra time to "get it right" ....take a window tool (or even your little finger in a latex glove) and "work it around" to make sure it covers all the potential leak spots. IF you do that, they don't come back. I've not had a single one come back from leaking at the top of the glass where that plastic piece cracked beneath it. The TSB does say that they only "suggested" the Kent and other products might work. I think that's where you might get into trouble, if someone tries to use silicone or something else inappropriate. They might work, but they sure as hell won't look as good, as the awful pics a few posts behind this one indicate. That is TURRIBLE workmanship right there. I can't believe anyone let that go back to the customer like that. I highly recommend the Kent sealer for this. Once you put it in there, it "flows out" a bit and has a nice, shiny finish to it. Looks far better for those eagle eye folks who want to get up next to the gap and see what was done. The other thing is, the TSB only pays 1.9 hrs. I can beat that time, but you have to be humping to do it, and this is what I do. I can beat the time and you can't tell I've been there, other than your truck doesn't leak anymore...or if you stick your eye up to the gap between the window and spoiler and see the sealer. A tech in the shop who only does one here and there, he's probably not going to be able to beat the time, and not going to be happy about it, and that can affect workmanship. YMMV, as always, but it varies more with many different techs doing the same repair than if you use a specialist or glass company. But that's just my opinion.
Maybe the new GM's leak worse now. They've only had this window setup for 2 years now. (3 model years, I guess) But I am a water leak/wind noise/sunroof repair specialist, and 2 Ford dealers locally are my biggest customers, and I can tell you without hesitation that OVERALL...not just talking the back glass only, but OVERALL LEAKS, it's not even close. F150's leak like it's a contest to see how many they can have. And I love them for it. The only consistent leaks I see in GM trucks are the shark fins (pre-2019) and back glasses (now), which are turning out to be a pretty big issue. Other than that, on the GM's you only see the odd sunroof drain, or body seam, etc...same random stuff you see on anything else, but not much of it at all. F150's leak from: Sunroofs. A/C drains (these FLOOD the interior). Rear window. Rear cab vents. Roof seams. Body plugs. Combine that with the fact that their big panoramic sunroofs also break like someone gets paid for it. And that's just the things from MY area of the repair field. So yeah, the newer GM back glasses might be worse than the Fords...but overall leaks? They aren't. And I can tell you this: Since Ford went to the aluminum body and the current style back window in 2015, I've diagnosed easily over 100 of them leaking that had to be replaced. That's me, just one person, at 2 dealerships. (they are big dealerships, in fairness) You know how many F-150's there are, so if I'm seeing that many, there are a LOT. Details: On the 2015-up 150's, the sliding glass upper and lower "tracks" are GLUED to the window. Not part of the frame like they used to be. So the glue comes loose, water gets between the window and the track. Only possible repair is replace the glass. That's why they leak. I will also say, I've seen a TON of them that leak a little....but maybe that particular truck had a bigger leak from the cabin vent, so I fixed that and told them to keep an eye on the glass. But many, many of them at least "seep", and the customers don't even know it. So that's where I'm coming from when I say the GM's don't leak as much. Yeah, their back glasses might be worse, but overall, they are not.
Ford rear windows crack and leak, too. They also leak in at the sliding window and the way it's made, you can't do anything but replace it. I've diagnosed a bunch of those. They all have problems. You just have to pick the one you want to deal with. IMO a leaking back glass pales to having to look at that arse-ugly Ram front end, or an F-150 that you can't make a turn in a 10 acre field, AND they leak terribly and their sunroofs break a lot. So all in all, I'll stick with a GM for now. I will say, my 15 Sierra at about 94k is using some oil. Too much, IMO. Gotta find a way to deal with that, or it's going to be someone else's. But the rest of it is solid.
My 15 has a sunroof. It doesn't do that, but if you open one of side windows, it does. I have no slider, either. Didn't order it that way, I bought it with just under 5k on it and that's how it was built. My visibility is WAY better than one with a slider. However, any window that causes that, be it a door, slider or sunroof window, you can just crack any other window in the truck and it goes away.
I don't use silicone. You're not supposed to, although I suppose you can. I've done quite a few, and only one has returned so far. It was leaking way over on passenger side...not up top at the corner, but down a bit. Where I didn't seal it and you really can't seal it, so it got a new glass.
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