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Pacfanweb

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About Pacfanweb

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  • Birthday 10/09/1965

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  1. So, an update: The bed rust has given me some problems, but I bought a used bed that was "repairable" for parts. Turns out it was just about in better shape than mine. I was so far into mine that I'm still using it for parts and fixing mine. Am well down the road to getting this bed finished now. Been hot here and I've been busy, but I'm determined to get this thing done so I can get to the fun and easy part of getting the mechanical stuff fixed.
  2. Had the bed sand blasted. Been chipping away at the rust repair since the weather finally broke here recently. We've had a record amount of rain the last 6 months or so. Slowly but surely
  3. Sort of what I was thinking. Since the relay energizes when you turn the key, that eliminates everything from the key to the relay. I eliminated the relay by swapping it with one of the other identical ones in the box. So it's from there to the starter, and I didn't think the actual wire itself would just "go bad" without at least a symptom or two first. Got a starter ordered, be here tomorrow. Not looking forward to that job.
  4. It started up the next morning. So no diag is possible yet. I may just take a guess at the starter. The relay clicked when you turn the key, so that tells me everything from the key cylinder to the relay is fine. So unless the wiring suddenly went bad with no warning from the relay to the starter, it's the starter. Not sure I'm willing to risk having her stranded again when that's almost certainly it.
  5. Okay, hoping to shortcut this diag process. 04 Suburban Z71. 6.0 LQ9, but that is irrelevant to this issue. Wife's ride. No crank. Plenty of battery power, that's not the problem. I know of the key cylinder issues. However: The starter relay clicks when you try and start it, but no sound at all from the starter. I think if the relay is being activated, that means the key cylinder and wiring in there is good, right? So if that is correct, I'm down to either the wiring from the relay to the starter, or the starter itself. There isn't much chance the wiring just suddenly died and no amount of tugging on it won't help, so I'm thinking starter. I noticed there are 3 different identical relays in the under hood box, so I swapped them and it made no difference. Am I missing anything?
  6. I can eventually, but it's cold here right now, lol. I can tell you the rims are 15x14. I don't remember the back spacing, would have to remove them to accurately measure. Slicks are 16x33, I believe.
  7. No, I'm not telling you that. Don't know how anyone could read my post and think that. You can monitor it anytime. And if the truck is acting up WHILE they are testing it, they should be able to find it. If it's not, then it's guesswork. All that other stuff about smelling it in their clothes is all well and good, but unless it's doing that while the tech is working on it, he's likely not going to find the problem. You don't know if the truck acts up all the time, or if it's intermittent. Intermittent problems SUCK to find. But the fact is here, you weren't there when they were working on it, and all you know is what your buddy told you. So we're all kind of shooting in the dark if we're going to try and help, because you have no direct knowledge of this issue. I don't know what led the service dept to replace those parts in the first place. No idea what they found or what codes it did or did not have. I would agree that they should probably diagnose it again for no charge...and I'm sure they'd do that. But I seriously doubt that it was running like your friend told you it was and they looked at it and said it was fine. I'm guessing it's intermittent. What he needs to do is go by there when it's acting up. I know it's inconvenient, but intermittent problems don't care about your schedule, and you have to just suck it up and get it seen when it's acting up.
  8. The equipment only monitors what is happening when they drive it. It's not a magic truth serum for the computer. If it doesn't act up when they drive it and there are no codes, there's nothing they can do but guess. Now, they may well know that it's *usually* the coil pack...but here's where the dealer is in a Catch-22 situation: The general public thinks that anything the dealer looks at should be perfect when they get it back. So if they say to the customer "There are no codes and we haven't duplicated your concern so far, but based on your description it's very likely a coil pack"....and then the custom has them replace.....and it turns out to NOT be the coil pack? Then the customer is back, angry, bad-mouthing the service department to all his friends, and wanting them to fix it for no charge now. Despite being told that they had no concrete proof it was the coil pack. No matter how they frame it to the customer, even if they say "now this is no guarantee, it's just what we've seen many time".....nope, the customer sees a giant monolith that just took his money and didn't fix his truck. If an independent shop goes through the same process, customers tend to be more patient with the "process of elimination" method of repair. So you can understand the dealer's reluctance to just guess at a part, even if they have seen it before, without being 100% sure. It's something I've always found interesting in my career. Other "repair" professions don't get held to the same standards. But lots of people think they know a little something about cars, or know someone who does, so mechanics are second-guess more than politicians. You go to the doctor and he looks at you, does whatever tests, and writes you a prescription and says "take these, if you're not better in a week, come back". And if you're not, you come back, pay your co-pay again, he bills your insurance again, over and over until they find whatever is wrong with you. The doctor gets paid every visit. Not so with mechanics, and particularly not so with dealership service departments. No, they are expected to get it right the first time, every time (very unrealistic) and then fix it for free the next time if they don't. Okay, sorry for the rant, just 35 years of the car business from all sides bubbling to the top there, lol.
  9. Not under a powertrain warranty, they wouldn't. Worked at a Ford dealer for 16 years, powertrain doesn't cover injectors. Internal engine, trans, rear end, transfer case, etc. only. Typically only the manufacturer's top ESP (extended service program), such as Ford's ESP Premium, will cover things like injectors and sensors. The lower plans will not. That said, under a certain mileage sometimes you can get your selling dealer (if you're the original owner) to help you with an AWA (After Warranty Adjustment). They do have the option to offer this up to a certain mileage/years in service. I don't know what that point is for GM dealers, but I do know they have it, and then you can appeal to GM for some assistance as well. Your mileage may vary, of course.
  10. I'd estimate the average short bed Square to weigh in between 4000-4500lbs, with a big block. I can tell you that my 79 short bed drag truck that is a factory big block weighed 3920 lbs before I had it tubbed. It was missing the power steering, A/C compressor and manifolds. Probably a few other small things. But it also had a Dana 60 in it, and ladder bars, so that offset some of the losses. So I'd say it was probably a bit over 4000 in street trim. 4500 max, I'd say. No power windows or locks.
  11. Yep, it wrecked me. He was only 5 and died in our living room with all 4 of us around him. Went from walking around the yard just fine on Friday to gone just after noon on Sunday. I've had a lot of old and sick dogs down and been there holding them every time, but this one was awfully tough. Anyway, I now have the bed on my trailer. When I get a minute, will set up with the blaster dude to take it over. Yeah, I've been kind of slacking on this, but it's HOT here. I work outside (I'm a dealership vendor, fix water leaks, wind noises and sunroofs) and when I get home, the last thing I want to do it work outside some more, lol. But it's going to get done, especially when it cools a bit. I will get it inside my garage when it's blasted where it's not so hot and get it knocked out. Side note: I've been researching the sheet metal parts I need and all the bottom corners are available, no prob. But I need the front part of the bed floor and nobody seems to make it for a short bed. They make it for a long bed. They make the back floor section for a short bed, but not the front, which has the spots for the fuel filler neck. They do make a generic patch piece I could use, but it's just the floor ribs, doesn't have that place for the filler neck. I could fab it, but didn't really want to. Would love to find a junk short bed that I could cut out the front section of floor, but that's kind of unlikely...they're all as old as mine with probably some of the same issues.
  12. Got it from Autozone. Don't know if it's beefed up. Didn't much care. I needed it and they had it. It does have a lifetime warranty, although I hope not to use it. Was just over $140 with a coupon. https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-condenser/spectra-premium-a-c-condenser/375475_0_0
  13. Put the condenser in Friday evening. Wasn't too bad. Skimmed through a couple of videos and went to it. Took me a couple of hours, maybe slightly more because it was DAMN hot in the driveway. Had it evacuated and charged today. Cools like a champ. Hope this aftermarket one lasts....it has a lifetime warranty, but I'm not interested in making use of it, lol.
  14. Happened to my 2015 Sierra today. 43k miles, less than 3 years old. My dealer told me he could probably get me some assistance, but I don't want to wait until next week. Too damn hot and I need my truck. Bought one from the parts store a few minutes ago. Letting it cool off a bit now, going to throw it in there and take it to get evacuated and recharged later.
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