Shu

How is this done?

Might check the upper control arm frame bolts. They loosen those to do the alignment. If those are not torqued down properly, they can move and clunk when taking off or stopping, etc. Since this is the last thing done just before you started experiencing this clunk, then I'd start there.

Mine was exactly the same. Pulled them off and the passenger side was bad; no resistance in the first few inches and then again at the bottom of the stroke and limited/inconsistent in the normal stroke range. No leaks either. Appears not properly manufactured. I swapped out with aftermarket one; no sense in putting the same poor quality shocks back on the truck.

I will give this a try.

The vibrations on mine are not steady. It may shake hard for a half mile and then be steady for 2 miles, then back to shaking. It does not mater if in V4 or V8 mode, tow mode, downhill decent disabled, traction control disabled, etc. I would think if it were a wheel, tire, driveshaft imbalance or torque converter issue then the vibration would be steady and not intermittent. It is like there is a harmonic issue. I have heard that the factory wheels are not very true. Wonder if you had two of those on the same axle if they would rotate to the same position and would vibrate until one wheel rotated out of synch with the other to cancel the vibrations? Do two wheel drives have this same issue? Anyone replace the full exhaust still have the issue? Anyone changed the shocks?

I believe they are 21mm headed bolts, a tight 13/16" will work.

There are two styles, mine was the first style with 4" long bolts and it is 140 ft lbs. Found this in another post on here: The NEW design bolt (a) is slotted, does NOT have a removable adjust cam, and measures 102 mm (4 in). The OLD design bolt (b) is flat down the entire length of one side, has a removable adjust cam, and measures 110 mm (4.3 in). Two design bolts. If its the first design bolt, where both cams are separate from the bolt, the nut spec is 140 ft.lbs. The second design bolt has one cam attached to the bolt at the bolt head. That nut is 77 ft.lbs.

Old thread but wanted to post what I found that was causing my LF suspension clunk. The upper control arm to frame caster/camber adjustment bolts were not properly torqued. This was allowing the upper A to rock forward and backward in the mounts and clunk. I have a video of the issue, but it doesn't capture just how much the upper A is really moving when it rocked and clunked. If you suspect this, have someone back up slowly a few inches at a time and apply the brakes and hold the wheel while they do this. You will feel the whole wheel move when it clunks. I went ahead and checked the torque of the upper and lower A mounts on both sides. Only the Drivers upper was loose. Prior to finding this, I had loosened and retorqued the front cross member under the engine. It was not torqued to spec either. Between these two things, I feel I have possibly nearly eliminated most of the vibrations again.

While that was my knee jerk reaction as well, I don't think it is the real reason. People who do their own maintenance simply are not going to stop doing it because a new tool is needed; they will buy the tool. Also, I doubt the majority of new car buyers buy replacement tires, have tires repaired, or rotated at the dealerships; by far tire stores outsell the dealers in this area.

What would be the purpose of GM and others not allowing the air pressure increase or drop method?

Had an interesting surprise the other day. When I bought my truck I installed a leveling kit within the first month. I took it to the dealer to have it aligned after leveling. For the last 30000 miles the truck has had with a 'heavy' steering feel. It tracked straight without any steady pull in either direction. The steering wheel was centered. Even though it tracked straight, it required steady back and forth with any road imperfection or wind, etc. You always felt like you had to keep a little steering input one direction or the other and back and forth sort of tacking down the highway. I too have dealt with a slight vibration as long as I recall with this truck. Now for the surprise. I had it aligned and while they messed up the center line of the steering wheel (which they are correcting tomorrow), they found the front wheels had a toe and camber split that fought the other wheel. The amazing part was that my tire wear has been pretty dang good on these stock GoodYears. they have all worn very evenly. And the vibration is GONE. I have no vibration in my truck at all now. I sure hope they don't mess it up re centering the steering wheel.

bed crooked by 1/4" from cab, or not square or on the frame? wheel base might be from caster setting on front or rear end slightly out of alignment. I'm not sure if these locating pins/leaf springs have a little play in them for alignment or not. If so, that could be an easy fix. Tires tops to bed wheel well lip is 1/2" off side to side? level ground? Drivers side lower? fuel weight?

295 is only the section width of the tire, what is the aspect ratio and wheel diameter?

Are you sure on this size? It's 36.25" tall. Some are already saying a 34" tire will rub at full turn.

I found this statement entertaining