JoJoSilverado

When you say no rubbing, are you talking about with the wheels set perfectly straight? Because if you're never turning anywhere then I suppose it's possible to not have rub, but you probably can't get very far without ever turning... haha

Thanks. I have similar opinions. I was worried how far it may have possibly stuck out. I'd rather have more width in the tire, but if it meant the tire was going to stick out obnoxiously then I would be willing to sacrifice tire width if it meant not having my tires way out.

Did you by chance have a picture down the side (from the rear) of your truck after the bilstein/305/55/20 G2s? I was curious roughly how far they might stick out. I feel like my stock 275/55/20 are fairly flush. Curious what to expect when I go up to the 305 g2's

I would recommend 285/50/22 as a safe/"beefy" tire. That would put you around 33.3" tall tire. Or if you want to go a little wider, you could try the 305/45/22, which is like 32.9h and 11.93w, but it could be snug (possibly even requiring you to zip tie the liners).

Was it just rubbing the liner, or did it look like it was going to hit UCA/Swaybar? Like, do you think zip tying the liner would have fixed it, or was it hitting something physically mechanical?

Awesome setup, pretty much exactly where I've been debating on going with mine level/tire size wise. Just to clarify on your wheel offset, that's +18, correct? It didn't appear deep enough in the photos to be -18, but I just wanted to verify. Mine are 20x9 +15.

What height of level did you have (sorry if you've mentioned it before), and also what was your wheel offset? And did they actually toss up a 305/55/20 during the test fit?? I was thinking the 305/55/20 would be tight, but still clearable. My wheels are 20x9 +15 offset on a '14 double cab with a 2" motofab level. (this is all stuff that has gone through my head, I'm not making claims that it successfully fit, just thoughts that it could)

Regarding the 275/70/18, Cooper's website puts it at a 33.39in height. Awhile back I'd seen somebody mention running a 33.21in tall tire without a level. Not sure how close they were with that, but my guess would be that the extra .18 in height shouldn't be detrimental. That was what somebody said, but who knows how closely they were monitoring for rub and such. Some people pay more attention than others when listening/feeling for small variations in their vehicles. Your best bet would be to ask your tire dealer if they can do a test fit.

Based on his above post, he has 20in wheels, not 18s. He had stated his tire size was 275/60/r20. With that tire size, my assumption would be a common 20x9 wheel, but I don't know for sure. Generally a 275mm tire would fit a 9in wide wheel, but all tires are different. I had just checked the Nitto G2 sizes and they don't recommend putting that size of G2 onto anything wider than 8.5. I believe I've seen a couple people here mention having 275/70/18s though.

Thanks for the information.

I honestly haven't yet. I don't intend to purchase tires until late summer/early fall, but I'd like to have a concrete decision before then. It's definitely not urgent at all, but I'd rather do the "research" early. I assume you have the 5.3? How much (if any) would you say the drive train has to work to get the 12 ply f-rated tire to get moving??

Yeah, I'd looked at the G2s, but I was referring specifically to the bfg ko2 in the earlier post, I didn't specify so that's definitely my bad

Did you special order that tire size?? I haven't seen anybody else with 285/60/20 ko2's, nor do I see it in their spreadsheet. Curious how you got those because I'd been wanting them to have a 285/60/20 for awhile.....

I make the drive 3-4 times a year, my whole family is up there. Good thing I consider driving "therapeutic" haha. My girlfriend hates the drive. Before we got together, the furthest she'd ever gone was southern KS (3 hours) as opposed to the 10.5-11hr drive lol. My dad used to live down here with me, but he actually recently moved back up to be with his parents/siblings. He and I both enjoy it up there ten-fold compared to down here in OK. It's a night and day difference socially, as well as the scenery.

If only y'all had something setup prior to Christmas! I was just up in Rochester, visiting family for the week. I would have definitely been willing to haul them back down to him (it'd be nice if the excess gas from Rochester/Blaine and OKC/Texas was covered though, as I would have done the Rochester/OKC part with/without wheels as I gotta get home somehow) lol

I'm torn between the Toyo RT and the Nitto Ridge Grappler as of late. Like, the design of the Toyo really catches my eye, but the siping of the Nitto gives me the impression that it'd probably be a slightly "safer" tire in wet conditions. Trying to shop by price really hasn't helped me much, as there is only a $10-20 difference for a set. I know there aren't many people running the Ridge Grapplers yet but what would y'all's take on my "dilemma"?

Did you put in the taller rear block as well, or just do the front with the 2.5? Also, do you happen to have post install measurements?? I have the 2.5 kit as well, but I'm unsure exactly what final measurements I want to shoot for. I haven't been able to get much info on DC's from other members as most seem to have the CC. I feel like the DC has a little bit different "dynamic" (not exactly the word I was looking for but it'll suffice haha) in regards to getting it to appear level than the CC's.

So, you surpassed the usual 100% driving that most people do, and drove 110% on your trip??

So, you surpassed the usual 100% driving that most people do, and drove 110% on your trip??

Cool, thanks for the education guys. (Serious, not sarcastic) So, with my current rake being 36/39 on a DC/StB, I shouldn't be worried about ending up nose high with a 2.5 front only kit? Also, has anybody noticed a trend with perhaps double cabs generally having more rake than the crew cabs? Could that be why most crew cabs tend to be fine with the 2" level and a lot of people using the 2.5" tend to be double cab truck owners? Perhaps the added weight closer to the axle by "removing" the light/empty bedspace for a heavier cab extension with seats and excess components??

The weight transference makes sense to me, but it confuses me at the same time. Why do some people report that their rear is at the exact same measurements before/after front-only level kits, and then there are a select few that report slight drops in the rear end. Why are some peoples' rears coming down slightly, while others' are staying identical to the pre-level height?

Did you do the rear block as well, or front only? And do you by chance know what your measurements were pre-install?

So if I am at 36/39.25 F/R with tires all at an even 35psi (measured at full tank before leaving gas station), I should be safe to do a 2.5 front only level and still retain some rake, correct? Or would I need to account for the rear dropping slightly? Also, it seems like most people have only 2-2.5in of rake, so I feel like my 3.25 is odd. Could it be due to the front tires being bulged from the weight of all the front end components? Do I need to offset the front psi from the rear psi for a more accurate measurement?

I've always been under the impression that with the front/back suspension being independent that if you measure through the center of the wheel to the wheel well and got measurements of, for instance, 36f and 38b, that came out to "2 inches of rake therefore a 2 inch kit would level it out to 38f and 38b. But with asalinasz results, it's showing the back ended up going down a while inch with just a 2.5 front only without doing anything with the rear blocks. Why did his rear end come down when it seems like everybody else's rear end stays the same height after their front-only levels?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So you didn't do anything to the back end? When they added the 2.5 FRONT level, the back went down? Or was the tank filled up before you did the "after" measurements?