sonerick

I've had this issue since day one with my truck (2017 5.3L 6 speed). I had one TSB performed that slightly improved the issue (forget the TSB #, but it was software reprogramming, not the new fluid/fluid exchange TSB that's out for the 8-speeds). Otherwise have used a Range device on and off for a couple of years to help deal with the issue. No tune, although I have considered it. Just after I turned 100k miles this past January, I had one day where the transmission really acted up and a check engine light came on (I think it was P0741, TCC clutch performance or stuck off). I cleared the code with a ScanGauge, but the poor shifting continued and the CEL came back on. The dealer diagnosed the issue as the torque converter. They replaced it and the check engine light has been off since. Shifting returned to "normal" along with the fish bite issue. No different than the first 100k miles. This leads me to believe the engine/transmission tuning is the issue, and it eventually causes the torque converter to fail. Not the other way around. Based on this anecdotal evidence, getting a tune early on in ownership may avoid torque converter issues down the road. Hope this helps.

Wheel bearing?

You could bump up to a 275/70/17 size without a lift/level. Any larger and you might have some rubbing. I'd stick with p-rated tires unless you do a lot of towing, they are lighter and less stiff so you will not compromise mpg and ride quality as much. I've had 275/65/18 Goodyear Duratracs and just made the switch to Falken Wildpeak AT3W's in the same size, no rubbing with either set and they fill out the wheel well better than stock size. Duratracs had great traction in all conditions (esp. snow) and seemed to have great tread life, but were very difficult to balance, always had a slight vibration, and got extremely noisy over time. So far so good with the Wildpeaks, they are nice and quiet, minimal weights required to balance, and no vibrations. Hope this helps.

Were the lift blocks you installed tapered, and if so is the taper facing the right direction?

Check your battery connections and ground connections. IIRC, there was a TSB about an issue with one of the ground connections somewhere in the dash.

Did you use the Bilstein-supplied nut, or did you re-use the stock one? Just curious, as I have set and will be installing soon.

Was in an accident and dropped my truck off at the body shop on Sept. 16th. They did what they could with non-oem parts, but still waiting on a rear bumper assy. The customer service rep. at the body shop mentioned he had a nearly new Tahoe in a few days before me with extensive front-end damage (~$18k worth), and estimated it would likely be 6 months+ before they got it back on the road due to the many oem-only parts required for the repair. What would you do in that situation? Insurance usually only covers 30 days for a rental. Do you pony up the cash for a long-term rental? Do you buy another car in the meantime, and sell one of them when the repair is completed? Or...?

https://www.autoanything.com/tonneau-covers/60A5770A0A0.aspx I've been using this one for the last few years. Sturdy, simple design, doesn't leak, and I can take it off/put it on by myself in less than 5 minutes. Also, it's the same as the GM one, just lacking the GM logo and much cheaper.

Seems like my pump has quit also. OP, did a new pump solve your issue?

I have the Advantage Hard Hat tri-fold tonneau cover, which is essentially the same as the GM-branded one but a lot less expensive. The only difference is that there is no GM logo on it. http://www.advantagetruckaccessories.com/hard-hat.html I have had it for about 2 years and it has held up great. Like the OP, I wanted something that would sit on top of the frame rails, was easy to put on/take off myself, did not require any brackets, frames, drainage tubing, etc., and was relatively water tight. This thing fits the bill. IMO it looks great, its easy to use, durable, and I can take the entire thing off/put it back on in about 2 minutes.

I like the Rough Country rear bumper the most so far, it retains the corner steps, integrates the stock backup sensors, and works with the factory tow hitch. Plus it adds a couple of lights. https://www.cjponyparts.com/rough-country-rear-led-bumper-chevrolet-silverado-1500-2016-2018/p/10773/?year=2018&gclid=CjwKCAiAwJTjBRBhEiwA56V7qxDhUodpI42VkGOiFhS98nOh8XizssiDU6PhQYJ4QfJo98BYSKjo0xoC9WIQAvD_BwE

It's easy enough to search for pictures, but it would be nice to hear about people's experiences with customer service, shipping, actual in-person quality, installation, fit and finish, etc.

I'm in the same boat, interested in what is out there.

I've had two sets of Duratracs. The first was on my 4Runner (LT255/75/17) and the second is on my Silverado (275/65/18). Both sets were difficult for the shop to balance, required a ton of weights, and still vibrated on the highway at 65+ mph. On the Silverado, I had the shop replace one defective tire and it helped a bit, but I still have some vibrations. I have a 300' long, extremely steep driveway that is challenging during the winter. I bought the Duratracs due to their reputation for good snow performance. They have decent traction, but nothing really that amazing. Next go around, I will probably try out a different tire.

I visited 6-7 Chevy dealerships between MA and NH when looking for my Silverado, and ended up buying from Quirk Chevrolet in Manchester, NH. I was close at a couple of dealerships, but ended up walking away for various reasons. In the end I think I got about 18% off MSRP before trade, which was about the best I had been able to do. Nothing near the 20%+ that I was hoping for based on these forums, but it was better than some of the prices TrueCar and other sources said were typical of the area. Next time I might seriously consider flying out to Laura GMC. I like the negotiating part of the process too, it's a little stressful but fun. Everyone has a different strategy, but try to negotiate the deal without the trade-in at first. Get their best offer then negotiate the trade-in.