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sonerick

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About sonerick

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Nick
  • Location
    NH
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2017 Silverado 1500

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  1. How does the color and brightness compare to stock?
  2. If it was remote started, there's a good chance the auto-defrost was turned on. Check your remote start settings on the truck and see if the box next to "defrost on startup" or whatever it says is checked.
  3. I've seen this issue over on the Toyota forums too, there were a few guys with 4Runners that had exploding rear windshields. I think in all cases it was the defroster shorting out somehow.
  4. Those are pricey tires, but I think the prices I'm seeing on TireRack are a little inflated. A local shop should be able to do much better. $1,300 for Duratracs, mounted and balanced $100 for an alignment 2 hours of labor @ $120/hr for the level install (and that's a conservative hourly rate) That's $1,640. Still a conservative estimate, so I'd say the shop is expensive. Edit: And based on the above poster's labor charge for the level install and alignment, it would be only $1,550.
  5. I'd say that price is a little bit high. $1,000 for Duratracs, mounted and balanced $100 for an alignment 2 hours of labor @ $120/hr for the level install (and that's a conservative hourly rate) That would be $1,340. Add in some contingency and you'd be at about $1,500.
  6. At the time I purchased it, I confirmed with Range that they were sending me a unit with the latest and greatest firmware that was supposed to have fixed all of the bugs for 2017 model vehicles. I was particularly concerned about this since it was going to be used on my brand new (at the time) truck. You are right that they have released a new firmware since then, I misspoke there. But my point remains that I had the latest and greatest from Range at one point, it worked fine for a while, then it almost left me stranded. I won’t be making that mistake again. Unplugging the unit when the truck is off is cheap insurance against potential issues. FWIW, I think the Range is great otherwise, it does what it’s supposed to do. It definitely helped improve the driveability of the truck, now if only I could fix the fish bite issue! Here’s a link from Range that point towards my theory of the Range causing the issues I described in my previous post, and your theory that I do not have the latest firmware: https://rangetechnology.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204980535-Check-Engine-Lights Edit: I double checked the firmware version, and it looks like I have V7.8. I'll be sending it in for an update.
  7. I bought a Range unit in Jan. 2017 and had it plugged into my truck for about 10 months. I had no issues, including when leaving the vehicle at the airport for a week with it plugged in. However, this fall I used my truck to drive down to CT to pick up a large upright freezer from Craigslist. I met the seller at a remote garage, about a half mile into the woods down a pretty rough logging road. We arrived at night, and it was dark and cold. I left the engine off but the keys in the accessory position while we loaded the freezer, so I could use the headlights to illuminate the garage and the bed light to illuminate the bed. After loading, I started the truck but it struggled to turn over and the check engine light came on, along with Service Stabilitrack, etc. Finally got it started, but it must have been in limp mode because no matter how much gas I gave it, it just inched along. After shutting it down and restarting a few times it went back to normal and all warning lights cleared with only the check engine light remaining. After I got out to a main road, I pulled over, unplugged the Range device, and used my ScanGauge to check the codes and clear the check engine light. The codes were U0100 and P0700, pretty generic ones that weren't too helpful at identifying the problem. My theory is that the combination of having the Range unit plugged in and using the vehicle accessories with the engine off while we loaded the freezer drained the battery enough to cause some weird communication loss between the ECM & TCM, which put it into limp mode. Since then I have been careful about leaving the Range unit plugged in, and have run the vehicle accessories numerous times with the engine off and the issue has not repeated. This makes me fairly confident that my theory is correct. I have also noticed that when I leave the Range unit plugged in and the truck off for an extended period (over a weekend, for example), that it is a little bit slow to start. So long story short, don't leave yourself stranded. Just wanted to share my experience. BTW I confirmed that it has the most up-to-date firmware.
  8. I've got a bit of a whine too, most noticeable at lower speeds (parking lots, etc.). It's done it since day 1 really, and it hasn't gotten any better/worse in the year+ that I've owned the truck. I've read that it might be the two-stage oil pump GM is using in the 1500's now.
  9. It seems like luxury vehicles are moving this direction with the screen. I think it allows for a more elegant dash design since the dash doesn't have to wrap around it. My wife's A4 has a very similar looking dash with the floating screen.
  10. I agree with you guys, 285's look good on our trucks. My issue is that I want to keep the 18" wheel size (I like the taller sidewalls) and stock height. So for those of you in a similar situation, that leaves us with a few options besides the stock 265/65/18: 1. 255/70/18 (32.1" tire, tall and narrow, ran these on my 4Runner and liked them) 2. 265/70/18 (32.6" tire, npossible rubbing?) 3. 275/65/18 (32.1" tire, +1 over stock, should be no rubbing) 4. 285/60/18 (31.5" tire, probably would fit but smaller diameter than stock) 5. 285/65/18 (32.6" tire, probable rubbing) Another consideration is going with a P tire instead of an LT tire. Adding heavy LT tires increases unsprung weight and will impact MPG's, acceleration, etc. For me, I haul firewood, landscaping and construction materials, etc. pretty frequently, but usually don't overload the bed and don't travel very far loaded up. I also don't tow much, just a small utility trailer on occasion. So I don't really want to take the hit on MPG's going with a heavy LT tire that I don't really need. Unfortunately, however, most of the 285's I've seen only come in an LT tire. So that, combined with wanting to keep the 18" wheels and stock height, has me leaning towards the 275/65/18's. There are a few good P-metric AT's available in this size, and there would be no issues with rubbing.
  11. From all I've read during my research over the past couple of weeks, you can generally +1 over stock tire sizes without issue. So for you 20" wheel guys, that means you can go up to a 285/55/20, which is a 32.3" tire. Stock is 275/55/20, which is a 31.9" tire. Edit: I just read he has +20 offset wheels. I think the offset for the stock 20" wheels is +27, so unsure if putting on stock wheels would impact potential for rubbing.
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