Goinovr

@pgamboa Still looking for a delete. Need that spot for my LC7i.

There's a fuse panel on the drivers side dash. The dome light fuse it there. I put in an add a circuit fuse tap in order to get a new wire lead for the lights. similar to these... https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-NI-FH02-Circuit-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B0742BZXC2 I can't remember what size fuse it is so you'll want to verify before buying. edit* - The led's dim off with the other lights as well. Just make sure you get dimmable leds.

I'm starting to look into doing brakes and rotors and I am trying to decide between the police heavy duty stuff and the slotted/crossed drilled performance stuff. Anyone have any pros/cons between the two? I have a crew cab with more power incoming and have a tendency to take corners and turns sometimes faster than recommended so braking power and fade can be an issue with the stock brakes. I'm not doing any serious track days but it is fun. Potentially looking at the Raybestos Specialty Police or ACDelco Gold rotors with a carbon ceramic pad setup but of course I do like the looks of the slotted/drill stuff. Dynamic Friction or Powerstop. However I prefer function over form so if the performance isn't there then the slotted stuff can stay away.

Thanks guys. Added the 2.5 HMI to the latest parts list.

Hey all, I read through the first couple dozen pages on this. I have a shortage 2016 2.0. From what I am reading all I need is the 2.5 module and have it programmed to the truck. Is that a correct assumption?

'16 with 8" non-Bose. Want to lose the cd player to have room for my lc7i and dont listen to CDs. Unhooked it and entire system dies. Is there some kind of delete cable I can get/make? Internet searches have come up with nothing so far. @pgamboa?

No. I had my shop put moogs into the lowers. The uppers are off size for any of the moog ball joints but had them put in higher quality upper ball joints. The kit is staying on for now until I decide if I go bags or not. My shop said the geometry of the arms is good but those crap ball joints are a liability.

I stuck up for IHC during that time but it was due to misinformation. The arms themselves are well built and my wheels are practically dead center but as @Nasty has stated, the ball joints are literal junk.

I was looking at these last night. I like the captive inner ball joints. I added them to my parts list.

Just FYI for everyone... I can no longer say anything positive about the IHC 4/6 lowering kit. I have broken both lower ball joints due to the extremely cheap Chinese joints used in the kit. This was confirmed by my shop. I have since had both lowers replaced with Moog joints but am stuck using the Chinese upper ball joints because they are smaller than any GM upper ball joint available in Moog. Total cost to fix the joints and associated damage and misc... $1700. While the IHC crew had great customer service I can't in good conscience tell anyone to buy this kit until the various issues they have are adressed. Lack of QC - I had to slightly drill out one of my spindles to accommodate a missized upper ball joint. Lack of grease in ball joints - was told they were pre greased Cheap materials - extremely cheap ball joints which becomes a safety issue. Luckily mine both sheered while reversing into a parking spot.

Where can I get info on this? I have a '16 but don't have carplay or auto. I never received anything from the dealer either about this. edit* For those wondering... ACP/AA Technical Service Bulletin. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10078548-7690.pdf It's funny, I called the dealership where I bought the truck and they had no clue what I was talking about. Called another near my work and apparently they do the updates all the time. $150. My manufacture date is 02/16 so I am dead in the middle of the HMI shortage.

Do you happen to have the part number for the leather hump? edit* Nevermind. Found it. https://www.gmpartscenter.net/oem-parts/gm-cluster-visor-22822023/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9aW5zdHJ1bWVudC1wYW5lbC1jb21wb25lbnRzJmk9R0gxNDUwODUmcj0xJmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89c2lsdmVyYWRvLTE1MDAmeT0yMDE2JnQ9bHQmZT01LTNsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D

I can see these giving people some lift as it will re-arc their leaf springs if they had started sagging or they over tightened them . That's most likely the people who were saying they saw some kind of lift. If installed correctly on newer vehicles their should be no issue. Good job on the vid!

Yep. You can connect both but only 1 will work at a time. You go into the phone menu to swap between them like if you have to take/make a call. I also have a work phone and have to do this.

nice! thanks.

How'd you end up doing your bump stops? I have some puck style stops I was going to bolt into the the frame rail but I think there may be a better way.

To get the upper rear shackle bolt out you need to move/remove the trailer hitch. OR if you look where the bolt is you'll see a hole in the hitch plate. Grab a sawzall and cut straight down from the bottom of the hole so you end up with a notch in that bracket. That will let you get the bolt out and you don't have to take your truck apart and it doesn't really mess with the strength of the hitch.

My front at 5". I'll work on getting hub measurements.

I'm at 5" in the front. I'll grab a pic as well on my way out from work.

Ya 5 is nice. Love driving it when I visit family in Carlsbad.

Not 3rd world country bad but a lot of our roadways are pretty bad and falling apart. Part of my commute feels like I'm back on the Rubicon. LOL

ya we have some of the worst roads. I hit a bump so hard a while back I lost a front shim putting my drivers side at 5" while the pass was still at 4". That was a fun drive. @UofAZCats When those parts come in for your rear end can you try an snag a pic either before or after they go in?

Come drive on CA roads and see if you bottom out or not. That would be a true test. LOL

You should re-torque any kit after 100 miles and check periodically. This will span any suspension mod you do.