Just adding on. I am a bit surprised these trucks weren't part of the 17336 recall.
2016 ~75k mil and condenser cracked.
I've read there's a class action pending. There's a few other links as well.
https://www.lieffcabraser.com/defect/gm-air-conditioning/
Stock height won't rub. Lowered, I'm on a 5/6-7, the rear will rub a tiny bit on the outer fender when compressed. The fronts, depending on amount of drop will rub on the inside of the fender well when compressed. I ended up going to a 285/35/22.
Is there another 12v constant or switched at the back of the truck other than the trailer harness? Was going to tap the harness but there is no 12v and there is a 30a fuse in the #2 slot and there is no loomed harnesses I could find under the drivers side dash but hate to assume it's wired when I could be missing something.
I cut up my interior...
Skar to replace the RF. 3D printed a spacer for the tweeter to clear the mirror bolt. turned out pretty decent imo. Last picture you can see they're some deep bois.
Peel and stick.
Pulled the rear view mirror trim piece, a pillar trim and fuse panel trim and ran the usb power wire to the usb port in the glove box for switched power. Installed the app and connected up.
Made a quick vid if you want to check it out.
Took the back insulation panel out of the truck to work on stereo wiring and one of my dogs decided it would make a nice chew toy and shredded it including the sticker on it with the part number. Does anyone know what the part number is? I'm having a hell of a time finding the thing. The entire back wall is KillMatted so not really about sound deadening, I just prefer to have all the parts where they need to go.
There are several factors currently happening. The Texas freeze had a major impact on prices with many production sites shutting down. Now with businesses reopening there is also more demand which affects prices. Couple all that with President Biden killing the US/Canada pipeline project which was helping drive oil prices down. These have a direct impact on oil prices which affects everything, especially products made from petroleum, like tires.
The boot is a 2 piece system where it meets the cab. There's the boot which is wrapped around a plastic retainer with a clip at the top. If you pull the boot back a little you can use a flat head screw driver to push down on that clip and the boot will pop off. No need to access anything from the inside. You can then access the pink lever clip that pulls down and unclips the harness. Then just pull the door side of the boot out, run your guide wire through the boot, attach to speaker wire and pull through. I run my speaker wire down the bottom of the boot because there is just enough room to go through the cab between the clip finger and the harness. If you run it through the top it makes the upper clip hard to get back in (or out).
Let me see if I can get a quick vid.
Here we go...
Ran 14guage to my door speakers and mocked up an amp rack with some old amps. Going to be carpet matched mdf or acrylic once I get the template done. Haven't decided yet.
Hey all...I know this is an old one but I am doing this right now so I made a quick video of what I am doing to run the wire. Hopefully it helps. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought. Getting the boots back on is the hardest part. At least for me. I did my back doors the same way and doing my passenger side once this side is back together.
Video format. DVD's are multiple files that get put together in sequence and decoded by firmware. Typically this is done at the OS level on a PC with USB dvd player or locally in a home based dvd player. The videos you can play from a usb stick are already encoded to the correct format and put together. Which is why you can't just download a single file from a BR/DVD to make a "backup". You need to use software to rip all of the separate components and stitch them together to make a single playable file. Typically MP4, AVI, or MKV.