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SJ75

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About SJ75

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  1. How many o2 sensors are there. And where are they located? I can find two by the transmission. I just want to make sure there aren’t any I am missing. 2003 2500HD Sierra v8 gas Shane
  2. @Formulabruce. So where is a good place to get these parts from.? Along with a good instruction manual on how to do it. Unless by some miracle I find a shop that listens and wants to help, I am looking at doing this on my own. I am mechanically inclined.
  3. Tires I dont think play a roll here. News ones put on in decemeber with the problem going back a couple years. I never got any letter from GM about an upgrade to solve problems in the 4L80E. Then again the dealers around here dont want to do anything. So finding a reputable place around here is a shot in the dark. Since I am not hearing or feeling anything, I will start with the solenoid. And look at the rest when I have the money. I will do the ground check as well. When All this throttle body code started that cold 10 degree january morning 4 years ago, it went to a place where I think they did more damage then good. That place is gone and nobody knows where the guy went.
  4. The update info ; Now that this project has me doing almost all highway except the last mile two new clues have emerged. two points on the high will most likely trigger the Flashing CEL. going over 60 on shallow long down grades where light power has to be applied to keep speed up. steeper down grades backing off throttle completely doesnt do it. up hill under power nothing. flat runs only if the run is long and it gets over 60. The other clue since it sat for a while because of work stoppage, Iet it sit for two weeks or more and just turning the electrical system on will trip the reduced power. Start it up and it still responds to throttle inputs in park, let it warm up, shut it down and restart and the reduced engine power disappears. the cel stays on for a while. it too clears on the next start. possible suspects? MAF? IAT? Gasket? Crankshaft sensor? Original: I have a 2500HD, 2003, 202000 miles 6 liter gas. So I have been battling the dreaded throttle body code. It comes with 0300, 0600 codes. Replaced the throttlebody, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, coils, and computer. Here is what it is doing right now. At idle it has noticeable misfires. Under power it doesnt misfire. If I run over 60, the check engine flashes for 3-5 seconds. then goes out. It will only do it if I run for at least a minute or more over 60. No sounds, or vibrations, gauge indications, that indicate any issue. if I keep going. It can take a while for it to cycle like that again. Below 60, I can go and nothing shows. No check engine light. Also cold days if I dont let it warm up it can trigger the reduced power mode if I move it above 50. But once warm it is fine. It does restart with no issue. Oil level does not change over the life of the oil, no visible exterior fluid leaks. The mechanics around here just like to check the codes and and say it is the throttlebody when that has been replaced 3 times. (I kept the last one). They dont seam to want to do anything past that. Also, It doesnt like staying in over drive. it shifts out sometimes. Sometimes it stays. Dont think it is the clutch. it shifts smooth and quiet in all gears. Most of the time I only know it shifts by watching the RPM's I am thinking solenoid is going bad. Thoughts? This engine and transmission have never been opened. there has never been a need to get inside either. only the valve covers removed to inspect for a possible issue that might be cause a misfire.
  5. Thank you i saw the box to put the vin on the order pages of the places I was looking at. .
  6. What is the part number for an instrument cluster on a 03 2500HD? GM's part list for some reason doesnt list it.
  7. Since the thread seams to be hijacked, Should I be doing the same thing and run a relearn? Or something different
  8. I dont think they did a balance check at any point. I wil start with running some techron through it first
  9. I have a 2500HD, 2003, 202000 miles 6 liter gas. So I have been battling the dreaded throttle body code. It comes with 0300, 0600 codes. Replaced the throttlebody, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, coils, and computer. Here is what it is doing right now. At idle it has noticeable misfires. Under power it doesnt misfire. If I run over 60, the check engine flashes for 3-5 seconds. then goes out. It will only do it if I run for at least a minute or more over 60. No sounds, or vibrations, gauge indications, that indicate any issue. if I keep going. It can take a while for it to cycle like that again. Below 60, I can go and nothing shows. No check engine light. Also cold days if I dont let it warm up it can trigger the reduced power mode if I move it above 50. But once warm it is fine. It does restart with no issue. Oil level does not change over the life of the oil, no visible exterior fluid leaks. The mechanics around here just like to check the codes and and say it is the throttlebody when that has been replaced 3 times. (I kept the last one). They dont seam to want to do anything past that. Also, It doesnt like staying in over drive. it shifts out sometimes. Sometimes it stays. Dont think it is the clutch. it shifts smooth and quiet in all gears. Most of the time I only know it shifts by watching the RPM's I am thinking solenoid is going bad. Thoughts? This engine and transmission have never been opened. there has never been a need to get inside either. only the valve covers removed to inspect for a possible issue that might be cause a misfire.
  10. Yes. I have seen it listed under a couple of different names.
  11. riverbanks, davester I will take a look at those. I was able to get underneither today and look up. A new update has been added with new details
  12. Ball joints were replaced two years ago.
  13. 2003 Sierra HD 2500 Hydro boost. I am finding that the steering has spots that it feels stiff as the wheel is turned. it is more apparent turning left. Not so much right. On warmer days it is less pronounced than on on cold days. That can very as the temp rises through the day. As the wheel turns it gets stiff in spots and loosens up through other parts of the turn. Drives straight fine. No greater than normal correction needed. Still turns ok. No noises or thumping sensations in the wheel. No drip marks on the ground. I will get a closer look from the under side once the snow melt allows me to get on the ground. No visible leaks from above. Just the steering hoses that do need replacing. Bearing Problem? seal issue? Fluid Problem? If so is it something in the bearing hub that needs checking or filled? Thank you. I do expect questions Shane Update: If i release the wheel in a turn, it does not self correct back to straight. I dont have to fight the wheel either Update #2 I got under neith er and was able to look up. The point where the steering wheel shaft enters the hub, a cap piece has popped off and is dripping. not actively dripping when parked. Now when i let go of the wheel, it immediately steers right and continues to turn. even when I turn left and let go, it immediately reverses right. But I am still not having to fight it when going straight.
  14. It has been a year and a half working on this issue. Getting the P1516, 0300, 0500 , 0600 codes. replaced the throttle body more than once, checked the wire harness to the injectors and ground and replaced the throttle body harness. Replaced the accelerator pedal assembly. MAP was replac ed too. This is on the 2500HD from 2003. Early version. bought it in Oct 2002. Stealer ship does not want to dig into it, just replace the throttle. Time to go back to the beginning. Maybe I keep missing a clue Summer of 2015, the water pump was replaced. January of 2016, a very cold morning about 6 degrees. started fine, and idled fine. Left it to warm up. under power it felt very stiff and pushed. I didn't force it over 20 so it could warm up. Shifted ok. 2.5 miles I had to get on to the highway. It wasn't pushing as bad. On the ramp when it hit 45, reduced engine came on and had an extremely rough idle. got it stopped and it just quit. would not restart. The same guy that did the water pump did the throttle body replacement. As soon as I got it back, the rough idle was going on. fine under power, just at idle. When started cold, it would not rough idle until it got a little warm. Still does that. A month later the, fuel pump quit, and while there. the fuel filter was changed and so where the plugs and plug wires by the same guy that did the water pump. didn't change the idle. It ran with no problem until dec 2016. when it went into reduced engine power and kicked out the codes listed above. since then it has done it a few more times, all the same code. When it does go into reduced engine is usually within 5 miles of the driveway, above 45 and on colder mornings. what has changed iss the engine temp has gone up. The needle was at about 10 to 11 oclock on the dial to high noon now. not sure if that is a symptom or related to the cause. The dealer doesn't want to do anything but change the throttle, and a different shop wnet over the known culprits and found nothing wrong. Somebody said to check the ignition switch to make sure the proper current was going through it. The first guy that worked on the water pump might have done something. I have since found he is not the best at it, more for demolition. Since this has been present since the throttle was changed out the first time. I have lately been wondering if that 0500 code might be the culprit not a symptom. Other than that, I am stumped. can anybody add questions or more clues, or possible solutions please. Thank you. Not sure if this is related, but it does not like staying in overdrive, it shifts smooth. No power issues. Just doesn't stay there.
  15. OK so the MAP sensor with a coating of oil is normal? Considering it was original and the truck has 190300 on it right now. Over the weekend I will disconnect the battery for an extended period. The battery is a year old. Thank you I will look at the wiring and connectors. I am open to other ideas too.
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