Jimmah

No oil consumption issues here either, but I did order a PCV valve just for the halibut. Should have it early next week.

Altho I dont see -40 we do get down to -20, -25 often enough and have had no issues with the Moroso can I installed at 800 miles in 2016. I installed off of the brake booster. I cant imagine not ever having one with all the gunk that has been captured. I saved all the drainings just in case I had a dealer issue with warranty, (no problems to date). Each bottle represents 10, 000 miles, I've filled 4 but lost one when I moved a few years ago. In the winter I generally drain every 300 to 500 miles, summer 1000 miles or so. They make for good conversation when I have company out in the garage.

Quick question, I'm curious, can our trucks not be boosted from another vehicle or use a lithium jump starter if the battery dies?

OK, thanks for info. Will doing it this way also empty/pull all the fluid from the rad as well?

Yeah, I'm not big on amsoil either. What I was refering to was the dis-connect of the drivers side trans line and if the same procedure works with t-stat flipped for flushing. Yes to CamGTP, I will be draining the pan initially with a pump before removing, also changing filter.

I did the rims on my 09 back in 2012 or 13 and had pretty good luck I feel. Best pic I can find right now is from the day I traded it in on my 16. I picked a nice sunny day and started in the morning as I had quite a bit of taping to do with all the spoke centers. Prep wasnt too bad, just make sure the entire rim was completely clean, I'm sure a can of brake clean was involved. Just as in everything else, dont try and rush it or you'd be wasting your time and not be happy with the result. They turned out pretty well and I was happy with the results, the finish was still there at trade-in, no gouges or peeling that I recall. I didnt do a clear coat as I was more or less experimenting. I 'think' I put 3 coats on but might of been 2. You'll know when you've found your coverage. I will say I never got too close with a pressure washer, generally just used a mitt for washing.

I havent seen this mentioned as yet, but it concerns doing a flush with the t-stat already flipped. I assume a few people have done so as many of us have done the mod. Is there anything different done? Meaning, such as in this video of removing the lower drivers side line. Will the transmission still flush the same way with the t-stat flipped? Or should I be taking another route?

I recently ordered the 4600 rears. If I can soon find my spring compressors I'll order the matching fronts as well. I'm still running originals on front right now, installed a pair of Ranchos on the rear 3 years ago. They were an improvement but ready to upgrade them. I did install 3/4" levelling brackets when it was new which give me 1 1/2" if I remember correctly.

After contemplating this mod for a coupla years now, finally did it this morning. It went pretty smooth, no corrosion to deal with but getting the circlip out gave me a bit of a challenge, 5 different sets of circlip pliers and none of them would grab worth a darn, maybe the holes are metric sized...Didnt have an issue putting it back in place tho. I have the plate style holding the trans lines. Beware the two o-rings on each line, one stayed in the block when I removed it, just watch you dont lose either. 10 and 13mm ratchet wrenches to remove, added a 10mm stubby ratchet wrench when installing due to exhaust pipe. I did some test runs afterwards with "4 stop and look for leaks", quite happy with the results.