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Mozzer

Member
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    170
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About Mozzer

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Maurice
  • Location
    Bc, Canada
  • Drives
    2014 Silverado WT2

Recent Profile Visitors

1,226 profile views
  1. FREE. I found a use for the crappy front shocks I removed for new 5100s. Didn't have a helper to bleed some brake fluid so an old front shock compressed between pedal & piece of plywood against the seat worked to push the pedal down for me. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  2. My 2014 doesn't have a LSD & the traction control is actually about the right mix of allowing a little slip without getting out of shape, that's probably just because it will spin the inside wheel very easily so might kick in earlier than a truck with a LSD in the back. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  3. So it's slipping / unlocked most of the time? I am not an expert in auto boxes by any means but wouldn't that wear the torque converter out quicker? Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  4. Have you absolutely, definitely got all the positives back on to the connection block, I had one tucked down out of sight when I installed new battery, had power to most stuff but got similar errors to your description. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  5. Just to follow on the mention of 'if you drive on gravel roads then tuff shit'. I had three different rally cars in the UK, all driven on gravel stages & salted roads & I never saw chunks coming out of brake pads, there has to be some design or material problem to cause the premature wear. I'm just watching the end of the Chile WRC [emoji469] which reminded me of this thread. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  6. People calling BS on each other seems a bit unnecessary, as mentioned above if you drive lots of level highway miles you are going to get several times the lifespan of someone who drives hilly, country roads with tight corners. I'm about to change the fronts for the second time, I'm at 60,000 miles. No abnormal wear, just worn out. Don't ever come to a complete stop with brakes hard on as that will bake pad material onto the rotors. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  7. Steering column rusted

    There was a thread a few months ago about the same issue, seems quite common. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  8. Stabilitrack??'s

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/215830-stabilitrak/&share_tid=215830&share_fid=33003&share_type=t Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  9. Death maybe, injuries would be a $$ calculation by those lawyers for warranty vs injury payout costs in my opinion. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  10. Is that following a hard pedal issue or are they doing anyway? Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  11. I'm not a big fan of letting a vehicle idle for minutes before driving off but I live in a quiet area at the top of a hill so I can start, drive off slowly & cruise at almost no throttle for about 3 minutes before I have to hit the gas. If I had to pull out of my drive onto a main road I'd probably have to let it warm up a bit for some mechanical sympathy. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  12. Stabilitrack??'s

    If you can come up with an option that keeps the ABS & traction control functioning I'm in. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  13. Mine (photo above) says it's good for 12,000 lbs. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  14. I know what I have, I was more thinking about older vehicles that could have some random aftermarket hitch. Maybe if the sticker/tag is gone or illegible then it's time for a change anyway. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  15. As both class 3 & 4 have 2" receiver, how does someone tell what class hitch they have if the original info is not stamped on there? Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
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