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Mozzer

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Everything posted by Mozzer

  1. Is the truck running during this process.? I would assume so. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  2. How would I test a knock sensor? I frequently drive up a hill next to a wall at around 30 kmh, I can hear the engine 'pinging' very noticeably, I installed a canned 87 octane tune & it is better but not gone, running mid grade gas is a bit better again. I checked for knock retarding via a Bluetooth OBD device with two different apps & it shows zero instances. Does a knock sensor only activate under really bad pre detonation? Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  3. Sway bars are a trade off, trading independent suspension travel for less roll/lean in a corner. We used to remove anti roll bars (sway bars) from our rally cars for forestry rallies to keep the wheels on the ground over rough roads. Put them back in for circuit / tarmac events where body roll was more important. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  4. Great thank you very much. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  5. Here's what I've got. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  6. Ok, thanks very much for the feedback. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks for the info. I did soak it with penetrating fluid but didn't have the time to leave soaking for a few hours so would rather have the spare & yes the c clip was a bugger to get seated properly. Now I know what the parts site calls it 'bypass valve' so that should help with sourcing, thanks very much. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  8. Was hoping to avoid that as it's a 45 minute drive to dealership so if I can't do any other way I guess it will have to wait for another couple of weeks. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  9. I tried doing the thermostat flip but couldn't get it out, the c clip came out ok but there was some corrosion stopping the guts coming out. Want to buy a new complete replacement with the block to swap out but can't seem to find the part listed. Anyone have a parts diagram? Can only find lists on the parts sites. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  10. Agreed. My 2014 had squeaky springs at a few months old, I had power washed & sprayed lube in the springs & it would go away briefly. Took it in to dealer, they did the clean & lube, lasted a few days. Took it back & they installed new springs under warranty, that cured it for a couple of years. Now out of warranty. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  11. 2014 regular halogens originally can't remember the bulb type, would have to check on that Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  12. There's a lot I can't help with but being in Canada I can say your right on the reduced voltage, my silverado showed 9 volts & it uses the low beam light so it didn't matter to me that would be on so I just looked for bulbs that were rated to run at 8 volts or more. They are probably full strength or close to it even at the lower voltage. Definitely need to check yours doesn't use the high beam for DRLs, that is common on lots of vehicles. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  13. They look like the beam is similar & has a good cut off so shouldn't blind anyone so why 'wrong ones'. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  14. That's a real ******, were there any potential warnings like oil pressure changes or whining etc? Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  15. That does make your turn signal more visible, my old dodge did the same thing. Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
  16. From just driving experience & in no way backed up by technical knowledge I believe the grade braking only functions above a certain speed & likely measures time with brakes applied vs speed reduction (or lack thereof). All it does is change down gears as far as I can tell so you are as well to stick with your manual shifting. Sent using Tapatalk - 2014 5.3 WT
  17. This forum would be a very quiet place if that were the case [emoji1787] The product that started the thread should achieve the lower opening temperature I believe. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  18. The end cap / clip is facing up towards the engine, I removed the securing bolt & took the lines out of the retaining clips which allowed the block to turn down for access to the c clip, mine was corroded & I couldn't get it out. A couple of table spoons of oil dripped out when taking the bolt out. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  19. I tried the thermostat flip but couldn't get the end cap off after removing c clip. It was still on the truck so I will have to try again when I have more time & take the unit off & get it on the workbench. There was a fair bit of corrosion on mine. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
  20. With it parked in neutral see how much movement & what kind of noises you get rotating the driveshaft back & forth by hand. I was shocked how much play there was with mine from almost new but it doesn't seem to have got any worse after 120,000 kms. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  21. That seems odd, if a shock got softer as it compressed more wouldn't that be more likely to bottom out on big bumps & ride hard over minimal bumps in the road? 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  22. Hopefully you don't have any long steep hills in your area, I could see someone getting really pissed off following you with those monsters shining in their eyes, but yes they do look cool. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  23. Great, thanks very much. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  24. Any way of knowing what valve springs we have prior to pulling (vin or engine numbers) 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
  25. First step might be battery ground cable, they seem to be a common issue without necessarily being loose or showing obvious corrosion etc. 2014, 5.3, 4x4, work truck
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