lucas287

Most aftermarket lifted shocks will be valved pretty stiff. Viking coilovers from atomic? Double adjustable and you're free to set ride height yourself (side to side even) and can even swap out springs if need-be. Contact Atomic, he's awesome to work with. Super smart guy. BTW I don't have these...yet, that is. But I've done a fair bit of research and it's a great option for a primarily street driven truck.

Found it: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?74485-Actual-Throttle-Position-vs-Throttle-Pedal-Position

For whatever reason there's a half dozen different PIDs related to pedal position and throttle position. I seem to remember reading about one of them that always displays 84%.

I've been wondering if I was all alone with this issue! just out of warranty - rats.

Accompanied by a Stabilitrak warning too? Yeah read the codes even if it isn't active it should show up in the history as a fault.

I think this is only true if you're making more power than the factory driver demand tables can accommodate. For example, if I'm making 100 HP more than stock thanks to a blower, the higher pedal position rows will become a limiting factor. That's all TQ MGMT is these days. Log TQ MGMT advance and it will tell you more about what's going on. (ignore TMA - tq mgmt advance - during shifts as that's there to make the shift smoother and faster.

Spend some time reading through Soler's site. There's a lot of science involved with throttle bodies that I wasn't aware of previously. Would be hard to replicate. I dont actually have a Soler TB or controller so I cant speak first hand.

Just buy a Soler and be done??

4.10 has my vote. Best RPM range on the highway! @ 70 MPH 6th gear = 2900 RPM 7th gear = 2500 RPM 8th gear = 1900 RPM

I've taken u-bolts on and off probably a dozen times trying different configurations in leaf packs/trac bar install/etc.. and I've never had issues with them being TTY bolts. It's not as critical as a head bolt periodically throw a torque wrench on it if you're nervous.

Got it. So those aren't the flow gains you'd experience by simply upgrading to a the bolt-on L86 TB? https://www.solerengineering.com/generalmotors/se8223-040

@[email protected] Hi Mike, can you elaborate on how this is effectively any different than modifying Driver Demand tables in the ECM calibration? Obviously calibration changes are not on the fly like this is, but I've been able to dramatically change the way my throttle responds by playing with Driver Demand in HP Tuners.

@[email protected] Can you explain which TB on your website you're comparing to? You mention 100mm above which has me thinking you're referencing this one: https://www.solerengineering.com/generalmotors/se9871-100 Is that correct? If so, I'm also deducing that the above mentioned TB will bolt to an L86 intake manifold?

This a contentious topic no doubt and I don't have any first-hand experience on this particular vehicle platform. I spend a lot of time over on HP Tuners Gen 5 forum as I've been working self tuning my truck. There's a few well-known tuners over there, one of which that exclusively tunes on a dyno taking time to make short runs off idle to 3000 RPM to dial in the low RPM areas. That guy is a big proponent of CAIs on the 6.2 trucks. He doesn't specifically mention the 5.3s but logic would argue that if the stock air box and tube assembly (I think the 6.2 has a little additional fender cutout) supports 420 HP and 460 TQ then it will probably suffice for a mildly built 5.3. Maybe that's too simplistic of a view point though ?

My biggest complaint about the Koni's is they're a bit stiff on the compression side. The rebound side is much better than OEM, but OEM had softer compression for sure. Also, I don't think those CST coilovers are "double adjustable" unless I missed something. That's what so appealing about the Vi-King setup! You can spec whatever coil spring you want to run AND independently adjust compression and rebound to YOUR liking.