lucas287

It's been a hot minute since I've been on the forums. Found myself getting back into the GM world after buying a used Yukon XL. I still have an assembled set of used Bilstein 6112's boxed up in my garage from a previous build. I'm tempted to use them but they have 600 lb springs and my rig needs the 750 pounders. Does anyone have the 6112s (maybe a 2WD or Reg Cab situation) and wish they had the lighter springs? I'd be happy to swap you. -Lucas

Sold locally.

I have about 5,000 miles on these. Sold the truck after parting it out, so there’s nothing wrong with them and loved them. These are double adjustable (compression and rebound independent of each other). Viking has several different valving options, these are Warrior valves. Part number is B2005. Compressed length = 15.75” Extended length = 24.75” You do have to use a small washer as a spacer since they aren’t the exact width of the tabs on the frame/axle. I had them on a ‘16 Silverado 1500 but they should fit 99-18 as there is very little difference between the years.

Was cleaning the garage and found these kicking around. Bumping to the top. Also making a couple more posts for other goodies.

X2 just do AFM lifters. I would just replace the two lifters on that cylinder and call it a day.

I have a BTR Stage 3 however it’s in a 6.2. So it probably is roughly equivalent to a Stage 2 in a 5.3. There is some bottom end loss but in my case it’s more driveable because with the stock cam and high compression it was quite prone to detonating unless on e85. Same highway mpg though! lift is actually a bit less than stock. But the duration makes the valves dwell longer therefore PTV clearance might potentially be an issue. Mine is locked out entirely.

Yes sir, this is how all the manufacturers do it. I have a BTR Stage 3 L83 cam in my 6.2. It’s a 215/233 110 LSA. It too pulls hard, no loss in bottom end. Wouldn’t run that big in a 5.3 personally though.

@JON BAILEY first off, how do you like the 6112s? second, tapered vs flat depends on how you drive. If you use tapered you might get axle wrap if you’re an aggressive driver because you’ve taken away negative pinion angle. It will, however, be smoother the closer it is to statically cancelling each other out. I use 2 degree shims to bring my pinion angle into compliance with the tcase and then I locked it in with traction bars. No vibes ever. does that explanation make sense?

For real. I'd be using them if someone had a RCSB they'd probably work. These have a 600 lb spring vs the Silverado part # is a 750 lb spring. only minor differences in valving according to Bilstein.

This one above ^ is a 6.2 Yukon Denali with an aftermarket cat-back, S&B intake, and a Pat G tune. The baseline was before Pat finished up his tune. This one ^ is a 6.2 Yukon Denali with an aftermarket cat-back, S&B Intake, LT Headers, and a Pat G tune. That's a considerable difference! 26 HP and 32 lb ft. And gains all across too. I realize that this is two different vehicles on two different days - but just an illustration.

Not quite. Longer primaries generally promotes lower RPM scavenging. However, larger primary diameter does shift it upward, and it changes some of the lower RPM part-throttle transient torque production. It's complex, really. Most oversimplify it but it's a beast of a topic. I've read several books by the master David Vizard and it's mind blowing! Is it worth it to me? IDK! I want to see how my heads/cam setup works with stock manifolds for a bit first. It might be all I've ever wanted. The problem for me, and I'm sure others, is that a LT header setup will necessitate a different cat-back setup because my Corsa system will be entirely too loud.

HP Tuners all the way. Such a better long term investment. Even if you decide that you can't properly tune it, you already have the equipment to pay a pro for just a tune. I actually just did this with Pat G out of Victoria. I decided that I don't have the knowledge or time to tune a torque-based heads/cam truck. In regards to your issues, I'm wondering if the stock calibration is leaving the TCC locked during the 3-4 shift. With the PWM-mod, it will engage harder. Tuning the shift scheduling for towing won't be much different than a "sport" style tune. The idea is just to hold gears longer. I'd keep the TCC locked at around 40 MPH and up if you do a lot of 40+ MPH driving. If it's all city, that's a different story. You'll be fighting some heat with the TCC unlocked. The HP Tuners forum has a big section on GM Transmissions with a lot of wisdom. Just takes time to learn.

BUMP

Some sort of calibration will be needed to tell the ECM that you are running a different gearset. Don't think that change is in the TCM.

Can't answer that. Just understand that a TC is rated based on the torque of the engine they're behind. For example, a CTS-V-TC might say 2400 RPM, but that's probably based on what 550+ lb. ft.!?

Depending on the combo, yep, a TC can make a huge difference not going to argue that. I've had as big as a 3600 stall and it was a lot of fun. If that's the route you go, custom trans tuning will be important though. You'll need to have full control over when and in what gears the TC is locked up. You'll want it locked up at the very least on the highway. I have mine set up where tow/haul acts like a quasi-sport mode. It holds gears longer and I keep the TCC unlocked the entire time. Much more playful that way. "Normal" mode has lower part throttle shift points and a lot more TCC lockup.

x2 what these guys said above! Can only imagine what a blown 427 with a trans would cost from a catalog

Unless @Ryansal installs the cam himself - it would be far cheaper to do gears! Ask me how I know last month the intake lifter on cylinder #1 took a ****** (collapsed like most AFM lifters do). I'm on a TDY in Northern VA and without the conveniences of all my tools and garage, was forced to take it to a shop. But hey, I now have mild ported heads, a BTR Stage 3 cam, and just about every seal/gasket was replaced. Labor is expensive to say the least.

With a 7" lift and 35s I'd be doing gears instead of a converter. 4.56 all the way. Converters are great though but I think you'd get better gains from gears.

Before blowing it all apart and throwing parts at it, invest in a good digital angle gauge and take measurements at the t-case and the pinion. Then go from there. Opposite but equal. If the t-case is nosed down 5 degrees then point the pinion up 5 degrees. Buy a set of traction bars and be done. You're likely experiencing some axle wrap in addition to the poor working angles. I did the above method with my stock height truck and it drives great.

+1 for speed engineering! Find a good welder near you and have them weld on 3" v-bands at the collectors and y-pipe. Mock it all up and then have them weld the center portion of the y-pipe. No leaks, better clamping, and you still spent less than half of the big name brands.

I'd do a billet oil galley barbell. My motor will be pulled this week to have an AFM delete kit installed in addition to a BTR Stage 3 Cam. What cam are you going with? assuming that you know that stock cam cannot be used after properly deleting AFM.

These 8 speeds don't suck. Don't listen to the noise from people who don't have one, much less one that's properly tuned. It's a very robust transmission in reality and can take A LOT of abuse. Lift away my friend. Use whatever size tire you want. Like others have said, re-gear, or better yet, spend the money on a tune from someone that's a Gen 5 specialist.

Are your flex fuel tables actually active? If they aren't then you're running lean and over-advanced. Not a bad thing necessarily, but a possible explanation for your increase in fuel mileage. Properly tuned, e30 stoich is about 13:1 afr - stock tune is hard-coded to 14.1:1 regardless of the fuel used, even if you simply plug an alcohol sensor in. And at e30 and properly tuned you'd probably be running about 2 less degrees of advance on the highway.

The 8 speed issues people complain about (aside from the fluid issues and trans temp harness) are nearly all from programming. Gen 5 stuff is torque-based and quite complex. MAF affects VVE. VVE affects torque calculations. And if your torque calculations are off then the shift will be off. This is an over simplified explanation of how the engine side affects shifting. Then, there's the wonky programming in the TCM. Primary issue being the shift scheduling and torque converter lockup schedule. Tune that out and slowly and methodically dial in the engine side - and these 8 speeds shift great. Yes, there's some occasional weirdness, like the first 1-2 when the trans is cold always sucks and sometimes downshifts get clunky.