laughey started following What fuse to tap for Dash cam wiring + 2016 silverado, Clunk when stopping (when cold), Unknown part and and 2 others
Could be your leaf springs? But then again, mine clunk all the time...mostly first thing in the AM and when driving over pronounced bumps or potholes at a slow pace (i.e., parking lots).
I bought genuine GM brand new "take-offs" from an outfit named "Elite Tires" on eBay. $475 for 4 rims...free shipping...from FL to NH.Arrived in 2 boxes. Minus very minor rub/markings (tires removed by a rookie handler) and being a little dusty/dirty, it was money more than well spent.
Hello everyone, I hope you don't mind me to taking over this post. I'm both interested and confused (at the same time)...lots of good information from previous responses, so I'm taking my shot! I currently have an HID (35w Hylux ballast and Morimoto bulbs) setup and, for the most part, all was working fine for the past year. As of late, the passenger side (yeah, the one that's a PITA) has been in and out...more out than in as of late. OK, completely out for the last 2 days. I suspect it's a connection thing, but then again, who the heck knows at this point (I haven't looked into this as of yet). In preparation of what's to come, I figured I would do a bit of investigating my options should it be the bulb needs replacing. And then I see this post. Maybe, just maybe, it's time to explore LEDs? I see a number of "reviews" on numerous web sites suggesting LEDs make life easier (less wiring, mess, etc.) in terms of troubleshooting. Now, before you all start stepping over one another in response to my questions, please know this: I'm from the US, but my rig is from Canada. 2015 GMC Sierra SLE with projector headlights and DRLs are the headlights (no aux/secondary lighting within the housing that operates as DRL). Being that she's from Canada, the headlights are active 24/7 whenever in DRIVE with no way to turn them off (like in the US version). Apparently a few have suggested this can be corrected with a BCM re-program, but seeing how I'd have to remove and send it in to WAMS, being without a vehicle during this time isn't something I can easily manage at this juncture. Maybe someday. OK, now that we're all up to speed, it seems the race is neck-and-neck between Diode Dynamics SL1 and GTR Lighting Ultra 2. Each appear to have CANBUS/PWM built-in (still don't know for sure if that's something I need to worry about, but...) and around the same price range-ish. My questions are: 1) What, if anything, do I need to know about DRL and headlight being one in the same? As I understand things, DRL/headlight combos push lower voltage in daylight hours and higher at night. Some details I've found suggest that using LEDs may result in the DRLs not working at all (fine with me) or that the headlight would simply push max voltage 24/7 (which is what I believe the HIDs do). I guess neither one would be a show stopper, but on to my next question... 2) Has anyone tried or is using either one of these? 3) What, if anything, is done/needed in terms of dust cover modifications (or does everything fit nicely inside the housing like they both suggest they would)? 3) Lastly, I just learned (apparently this is a thing, learning) that 9012 and 9006 bulbs are the same? Whaaaa?!?!? How can this be?!?!? Why?!?!?! I haven't been able to uncover the reason why the industry makes/markets/sells the same product over 2 different model numbers. Is it because the 9012 is low/high and a 9006 is simply low or high (but not both)? I get that my projectors use a shroud to remove the beam cutoff (which, BTW, has been problematic for me since day 1...doesn't always work) when switched from low to high. I would imagine the 9006 would accomplish the same thing, no? OK, let the chaos begin!
Yep, this is normal (for me anyway). A couple of thoughts (given my experience): a) I forget the details of what I did, but I didn't like that the USB would remain live/active even after shutting off the truck, removing the key and opening the door. So I fixed that by playing around with "retained accessory power" on the assigned fuse. A simple swap and now the USB shuts off my dashcam (so it doesn't drain my battery). Maybe the same goes for my cell phone. b) I connect my cell phone to the USB so I can run AA (I have it configured to start/run AA when it's plugged in). c) I think the same (or similar language) thing happens if I disconnect my cell phone while the truck is running. d) I don't see this as an error. More like a notification. :0) Shout out to WAMS! It's because of you, my daily commute is less boring and my confusion/frustration levels have vanished -- I no longer miss AA after driving a rental for the week (on business) and coming home to my truck. It's AA all the way! Yay!
Have your battery tested. Especially if it's the original/factory battery. No, really. DO I sound like I'm kidding? ;0) I was having the exact same problem. Mine started last winter...on colder than usual mornings, I'd get no sound/audible/bells/radio/phone. Nothing! After driving for 15-20 minutes, shutting the truck off and restarting, all was fine. The first time it happened, I thought it was a fluke thing. But after the third time in a month, I brought it to the dealership (warranty)...and the savage that I am, I did so while this was actually happening. Unfortunately, the doofus mechanic didn't listen to me, even though he too "witnessed" what was going on, so he decided shut the truck off. Rookie! A restart did nothing but bring back the sound. Sunnuva... No stored error codes either. SMH. So I made arrangements to leave the truck overnight during the next big freeze. Still, no luck...unable to reproduce the problem. WTH. Spring eventually came and I forgot about it (as in it stopped happening with such frequency). It started happening again earlier this fall. I'ma 'bout to break! I went so far as to video my experience and went to the dealership to show it to them. Confused, they kept it for a few hours and still couldn't get Yolandah (yep, that's her name) to be quiet again. Dejected, I went home and, over the course of a month, I searched, reviewed and investigated for hours and hours and hours. I checked fuses, wiring, connections, fluid levels and air pressure. LOL. I found NOTHING. I wasn't giving up though. And then I found another posting on this very forum -- I forget which one it was, but someone was having trouble with something electrical and another forum goer suggested having the battery tested. Hmm. Sounds odd, but not too odd. My problem was electrical, no? Hmm. Maybe. Besides, I was out of any other options. At this point, it was time for my annual inspection and registration renewal, so I made an appointment with the dealership -- along with the LOFTR and inspection, I had them abuse/test the battery (I always thought this was part of the inspection process, but...). I forget the term they used as a result of said test (it wasn't good and it wasn't bad...marginal perhaps?), but since my truck was now 6 years old, they recommended replacing the battery anyway (she was still using the one from the factory). Yahtzee! Since the new battery has been installed, I haven't experienced this no sound problem since (going on 3+ months now). Additionally, my cell phone no longer goes freaky-deaky when I attempt to charge it (hindsight being 20/20, multiple times/week the dang thing would show "charging", but not have any more juice after a 30min commute!) -- that problem is no more too! Anyway, it'll cost you nothing to have the battery tested and, in the end, what you spend in time/money for a new battery, you get back in sanity. Good luck!
Like others have discussed before me, I have a bench seat up front and am blessed with the white USB port in the glove box. Prior to a recent HMI/radio/cluster upgrade #see below for a shout out#, I never had a need to use this thing...until now (so long 3M tape and magnetic mount)! Cutting to the chase, I'm interested in the following: Option 1 (proper, preferred) Replace current USB-A port with USB-C. Other topics I've read suggest this port allows one to play media files via iPod/iPad/MP3/USB devices and it's a straight shot to the HMI (or radio). It got me thinking...if accurate, it seems to me that I could simply swap this out with a USB-C port easily enough (or with a little finagling). Sure, I have the upgraded USB port in the flip up/down center console next to me, but I mostly drive with it in the up position and, as you can imagine, this cavity becomes a hot mess flipping it up and down all the time. The glove box, on the other hand, well, if the contents of it get mixed up, I've got bigger problems. Anyways, I've searched far and wide, but come up empty...no idea whether or not an exact fit from a newer truck (2019+?) even exists. Maybe the newest trucks lack an option for a bench seat or no longer provide a USB port in the glove box. Or maybe they do, but they're not on the USB-C bandwagon yet. As I travel frequently, I can say most/all 2019-2020 GM rentals (cars, SUVs) I've driven provide both USB-A and USB-C connections. Option 2 (gadgety, techy) Instead of struggling with Option 1, has anyone simply used a wireless charging pad (e.g., Anker) in the glove box? In other words, plug in a wireless charger and set the phone on it...neatly stored away "in the glove box"? I know the center console trucks have this charging capability and PGAMBOA has a YouTube video detailing the process of switching out the bench for a full console, but I'm not willing to part ways with my bench seat. LOL. Thoughts? Advice? As long as it's constructive, I'll take it...if it's hate, keep that to yourselves (and close family members). :0) Anyone? Bueller? #shout out to my peep(s) over @ WAMS#
Ha, sounds like my 2015 truck...bought used...from Canada. She came with this super low profile smoke hood protector dookicky. No idea who makes it (no label, emblem or other identifying marks), but I can say I haven't seen another truck around here (New England) with anything close to the same profile. This AVS Aeroskin looks very similar, but again, no label/emblem (maybe it's a sticker/label that comes off?).
For sure! Like I said, that dang USB port swap was a bit tricky for my setup...I had watched videos of swapping everything, so the cluster, HMI and radio were a breeze, but the two videos I found regarding the USB port failed to mention anything about a zip-tie/anchor that needed to be removed -- this prohibited me from simply popping it out (to disconnect the cables). In the end, I dismantled the cup holder cover to discover said anchor...along with dried up brown, crusty shi...err, stuff underneath. So I decided to give that a good cleaning in the process. Yep, that little detour added 30-40mins to my adventure. LOL. So glad I did this and did it this way...thanks to everyone on this thread, especially Harness Dr and WAMS, I saved myself a great deal of time and aggravation.
FWIW, I had the same problem with the OEM manual fold tow mirrors on my 2015 Sierra (bought it used in late 2017). I noticed the moisture about 10 months in...didn't pay much attention. Approximately 6 months after that, a few of the LEDs went out...eventually all of them went the way of darkness. I asked my dealership what it would take to replace the marker light and they "suggested" replacing the entire mirror...for $835 (installed)! Having no experience with GM prior to this vehicle, how was I to know that was total BS (re: replacing the entire mirror)? I started shopping around for OEM P/F mirrors and was blown away at the cost. I was wanting to get the P/Fs from BOOST, but theirs were back-ordered "indefinitely" at the time AND they had the blinker integrated in the glass (call me silly, but the ones in the OEMs were bright as hell, especially at night)...so I investigated offerings without this "feature". In the end, I went with the Trail Ridge P/F mirrors from 1AAuto. Don't get me wrong, I love them...less than half the price ($518) and I like the look of the marker lights on these (vs OEM). My biggest complaint, if you want to call it that, is they don't have replacement parts. MY STORY: Approximately 6 months after install, I experienced what can only be explained as intermittent motor failure on the left mirror. I reached out to 1AAuto...hoping they honor their warranty and thinking I'd get a replacement motor. NOPE. After a few weeks of back and forth (i.e., providing them with part/serial numbers, pictures/video and test results), they sent me 2 brand new mirrors. Huh? I specifically requested anything EXCEPT full replacement (yeah, call me stoopid). Sorry, no can do. Cracked cover/marker light? New pair. Faulty motor? New pair. Broken mirror? New pair. WTH? That's what I said. The good news is I received the new mirrors 2 days after this determination was made. I swapped them about 4 weeks later (I travel quite a bit). I sent the bad ones back (to maintain an active service warranty, I had to send the bad ones back on my dime -- $75!). Again, just my 2 cents. At least with the OEM mirrors, you can get replacement parts should you need them (yep, I learned my dealership was trying to scam me along the way). BTW, after swapping these and having time/interest, I determined the being a crack in the marker light itself. By the time I removed this, I discovered the reason the LEDs went out and that there was no visible moisture in the light because it was completely full of water. LOL. Anyway, I went through the faulty one and learned a great deal about them (and that replacement parts do exist on the OEM mirrors). I purchased marker lights from BOOST and replaced them on both mirrors (for uniformity) and sold them on Craigslist for $200. Good luck!
X-actly what you said...this TC looks triple A awesome! Well, except that it me far more than an hour...more like 2? Being a TC virgin prior to this, I took my time, thought things through, etc. LOVE THIS THING.
I just did (most of) this from WAMS...just shy of $1,400 when all was said and done -- had to get the USB port from somewhere else, but WAMS confirmed the part # and off to eBay I went. I purchased the HMI, radio and cluster from WAMS; received everything within a week. Like I said, I just did this...installed everything on 12/27 and other than my initial struggle with the USB port removal (I have the jump seat), I had everything swapped in just under 90 minutes. It is, as they say, truly Plug and Play. For me, it was sooooooo worth every penny. I travel 1-2 weeks per month and use rental cars wherever I go...having the same setup in my personal vehicle has reduced my confusion/irritation greatly! LOL.
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Popular, yeah, that's one way of looking at it. LOL I concur -- find myself slipping into M5/M6 if the hesitation rears its ugly head. We must have the same dealership -- I got/get the same runaround every time...especially the one about being more aggressive with the gas (the "lead" mechanic said this to me, no joke). Being that I work in the IT field, I'm far too understanding of the ole, "was not able to replicate" comment. I can't count how many times colleagues have said "this doesn't work" or "that's making a noise" and I investigate and can't get it to repeat what they say it's (not) doing. Oftentimes, it does end up being discovered/confirmed, but not without some deep-dive investigating or time/energy dedicated to it...just like technology, it's not like people can just leave said property for infinite amounts of time in hopes of rectifying a certain issue/problem, especially when it's not happening on a daily basis. Another thing all of this dialog has has brought forward was another "nuisance" issue I've experienced (that the dealership could never resolve)...this only happens in the winter months (very cold as in near zero), but at least a dozen times over the past two winters, I get in the vehicle (after it sits overnight), start it up and NO audio of any kind...no belt-minder, no door open, no star-up dinging, no stereo, no bluetooth and no blinker ticking). Absolute silence. And whatever the name of the white/background noise canceling technology is that GM "pumps" into the cabin to decrease the all-mighty rumble of the road (noise) is also unavailable (much louder on the highway). If I turn the vehicle off immediately, the problem usually remains upon restart. If I wait awhile, hit or miss, it comes back to normal. Initially I believed it may have to do with the vehicle needing to warm up, but there's just no way that is (can be) accurate...sometimes it takes longer whereas other times it takes multiple attempts, regardless of time. A couple of times I gave up, only to have things "back to normal" the next day. In the end, there doesn't seem to be any real resolution to this floppy transmission issue - at least not from the manufacturer...as if they (or any organization) would acknowledge it anyways. Sadly, this position leaves a bad taste in the mouths of those affected and, as a result of this ignorance, insurance/warranty "businesses" are making a killing in our liability-filled indemnifying society. Capitalism at its finest right t/here!
I forget the details (re: tranny), but when slowing down from high speed and then re-accelerating (e.g. going through a toll booth), the thing would struggle to determine if it should downshift or "stay the course", eventually leading to a hard and violent shift followed by an eventual correction. It did the same thing during colder months (from a dead stop) until it warmed up. Making things stranger is that it never did this while in the hybrid M shift/gear (set at 5 or 6 and driving it this way, accelerate, decelerate, stop, go, etc.) Anyway, they re-programmed (or adjusted) the tranny and I no longer have a hard/violent shift, but there is a more noticeable hesitation...the dealer says it's a product of the electronics (accelerator, tranny, etc.). I'm no gear-head, but it sounds like gunk to me. Still, no hard/violent shifting, so I'm good. One last thing, when I experienced this lifter issue, I did the same thing with the hybrid M shift/gear and, while the knocking remained, the major problems with hesitation (up/downshifting) were all but eliminated, yet the moment I put it back to D, the same hesitations/struggles...after a few days, I brought it to the dealer and told them to fix whatever ails this beast. Oh, during the same visit, they replaced the radiator coil (or something associated with it) due to a leak. Three months later, the AC went (there's a lot of talk about some line corroding, breaking, etc., on this site due to some nearsightedness on the design/engineering side). Initially I thought it was a bad condenser/pump, but a lot of the videos/details I found online confirmed that wasn't the case for me. When I got it back, they indicated it was caused by a leak on the line I referenced earlier. The leaf springs, come to think of it, weren't replaced because they aren't broken, just "noisy". Apparently putting mulch in the bed on a number of occasions this past spring was the reason for this - it never made such "clunking" noises while traversing potholes and bumps at low speed until after my spring cleanup chores were complete. Lastly, the headlights. If I had to knock GM for one thing, I'd say this is it. Definitely should be a recall for this, but yet it remains a TSB, for what reason I'll never know. When I inquired about this, the dealership said, "we can reprogram the BCM per the TSB, but you have to pay for it and there's no guarantee I'll achieve brighter lighting as a result". I forget the cost they quoted, but when I came back to this site, I found a better solution...even though I didn't want to go aftermarket. I went with HID (Hylux 35w ballasts and Morimoto lamps) for less than what the TSB (reprogramming and new lamps to coincide with the reprogramming) would've cost me. I chose the Hylux because it simplified the wiring and time to install stoopidly (for people like me). I think that about covers it. Yep, Yolandah (that's the name I gave her) is like a girlfriend in high school...some minor quirks, but you overlook them cuz she's gorgeous. LOL. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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