Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About laughey

  • Rank
  • Birthday 11/03/1970

Profile Information

  • Name
  • Location
  • Gender
  • Interests
  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

538 profile views
  1. @BlkSS Ah ha, so it's sorta like Legos! Groovy. Thank you for the details/specifics.
  2. For clarity, did you swap the entire OHC or just the mirror/shades flippy thing? Also, is that a rear power slide lever/switch on the RH side of the OHC? I'ma say "YEAH" -- the reflection in said mirror suggests 3 panes o' glass.
  3. I saw that one too, but it's got that tailgate lift knob on it. Maybe I misunderstood @BlkSS but I'm thinking he swapped the entire console panel thingy (not just the mirror and sunglasses flip down). @pgamboa, can you work your magic and retro the knob on this for a pickup?
  4. That's the one for the 'rados and 'erras, 2018-2020 era, yes, but the fella a few posts back mentioned using the OH console from a GM SUV...the SUV format includes the conversation mirror (hey now, that's what it's called)...which is what I'm looking for.
  5. Maybe my googling skills aren't up to par this early in the AM, but that part # doesn't seem accurate? Or maybe the online resources I'm using don't carry it. Any chance you can double-check? Much appreciated.
  6. 2 Qs: 1) Should I (and others) be nervous that you're selling this? Changing careers? 2) How in the world do you only have 39K miles on that thing? Now you got me thinking I should sell my 2015 (with 81K). :0)
  7. Could be your leaf springs? But then again, mine clunk all the time...mostly first thing in the AM and when driving over pronounced bumps or potholes at a slow pace (i.e., parking lots).
  8. Two things (for sure)...this isn't stock and The Harness Dr wasn't involved in this. :0)
  9. I bought genuine GM brand new "take-offs" from an outfit named "Elite Tires" on eBay. $475 for 4 rims...free shipping...from FL to NH.Arrived in 2 boxes. Minus very minor rub/markings (tires removed by a rookie handler) and being a little dusty/dirty, it was money more than well spent.
  10. Maybe my eye site is failing me, but what style headlight do you have and what bulb do you have?
  11. Hello everyone, I hope you don't mind me to taking over this post. I'm both interested and confused (at the same time)...lots of good information from previous responses, so I'm taking my shot! I currently have an HID (35w Hylux ballast and Morimoto bulbs) setup and, for the most part, all was working fine for the past year. As of late, the passenger side (yeah, the one that's a PITA) has been in and out...more out than in as of late. OK, completely out for the last 2 days. I suspect it's a connection thing, but then again, who the heck knows at this point (I haven't looked into this as of yet). In preparation of what's to come, I figured I would do a bit of investigating my options should it be the bulb needs replacing. And then I see this post. Maybe, just maybe, it's time to explore LEDs? I see a number of "reviews" on numerous web sites suggesting LEDs make life easier (less wiring, mess, etc.) in terms of troubleshooting. Now, before you all start stepping over one another in response to my questions, please know this: I'm from the US, but my rig is from Canada. 2015 GMC Sierra SLE with projector headlights and DRLs are the headlights (no aux/secondary lighting within the housing that operates as DRL). Being that she's from Canada, the headlights are active 24/7 whenever in DRIVE with no way to turn them off (like in the US version). Apparently a few have suggested this can be corrected with a BCM re-program, but seeing how I'd have to remove and send it in to WAMS, being without a vehicle during this time isn't something I can easily manage at this juncture. Maybe someday. OK, now that we're all up to speed, it seems the race is neck-and-neck between Diode Dynamics SL1 and GTR Lighting Ultra 2. Each appear to have CANBUS/PWM built-in (still don't know for sure if that's something I need to worry about, but...) and around the same price range-ish. My questions are: 1) What, if anything, do I need to know about DRL and headlight being one in the same? As I understand things, DRL/headlight combos push lower voltage in daylight hours and higher at night. Some details I've found suggest that using LEDs may result in the DRLs not working at all (fine with me) or that the headlight would simply push max voltage 24/7 (which is what I believe the HIDs do). I guess neither one would be a show stopper, but on to my next question... 2) Has anyone tried or is using either one of these? 3) What, if anything, is done/needed in terms of dust cover modifications (or does everything fit nicely inside the housing like they both suggest they would)? 3) Lastly, I just learned (apparently this is a thing, learning) that 9012 and 9006 bulbs are the same? Whaaaa?!?!? How can this be?!?!? Why?!?!?! I haven't been able to uncover the reason why the industry makes/markets/sells the same product over 2 different model numbers. Is it because the 9012 is low/high and a 9006 is simply low or high (but not both)? I get that my projectors use a shroud to remove the beam cutoff (which, BTW, has been problematic for me since day 1...doesn't always work) when switched from low to high. I would imagine the 9006 would accomplish the same thing, no? OK, let the chaos begin!
  12. Yep, this is normal (for me anyway). A couple of thoughts (given my experience): a) I forget the details of what I did, but I didn't like that the USB would remain live/active even after shutting off the truck, removing the key and opening the door. So I fixed that by playing around with "retained accessory power" on the assigned fuse. A simple swap and now the USB shuts off my dashcam (so it doesn't drain my battery). Maybe the same goes for my cell phone. b) I connect my cell phone to the USB so I can run AA (I have it configured to start/run AA when it's plugged in). c) I think the same (or similar language) thing happens if I disconnect my cell phone while the truck is running. d) I don't see this as an error. More like a notification. :0) Shout out to WAMS! It's because of you, my daily commute is less boring and my confusion/frustration levels have vanished -- I no longer miss AA after driving a rental for the week (on business) and coming home to my truck. It's AA all the way! Yay!
  13. Have your battery tested. Especially if it's the original/factory battery. No, really. DO I sound like I'm kidding? ;0) I was having the exact same problem. Mine started last winter...on colder than usual mornings, I'd get no sound/audible/bells/radio/phone. Nothing! After driving for 15-20 minutes, shutting the truck off and restarting, all was fine. The first time it happened, I thought it was a fluke thing. But after the third time in a month, I brought it to the dealership (warranty)...and the savage that I am, I did so while this was actually happening. Unfortunately, the doofus mechanic didn't listen to me, even though he too "witnessed" what was going on, so he decided shut the truck off. Rookie! A restart did nothing but bring back the sound. Sunnuva... No stored error codes either. SMH. So I made arrangements to leave the truck overnight during the next big freeze. Still, no luck...unable to reproduce the problem. WTH. Spring eventually came and I forgot about it (as in it stopped happening with such frequency). It started happening again earlier this fall. I'ma 'bout to break! I went so far as to video my experience and went to the dealership to show it to them. Confused, they kept it for a few hours and still couldn't get Yolandah (yep, that's her name) to be quiet again. Dejected, I went home and, over the course of a month, I searched, reviewed and investigated for hours and hours and hours. I checked fuses, wiring, connections, fluid levels and air pressure. LOL. I found NOTHING. I wasn't giving up though. And then I found another posting on this very forum -- I forget which one it was, but someone was having trouble with something electrical and another forum goer suggested having the battery tested. Hmm. Sounds odd, but not too odd. My problem was electrical, no? Hmm. Maybe. Besides, I was out of any other options. At this point, it was time for my annual inspection and registration renewal, so I made an appointment with the dealership -- along with the LOFTR and inspection, I had them abuse/test the battery (I always thought this was part of the inspection process, but...). I forget the term they used as a result of said test (it wasn't good and it wasn't bad...marginal perhaps?), but since my truck was now 6 years old, they recommended replacing the battery anyway (she was still using the one from the factory). Yahtzee! Since the new battery has been installed, I haven't experienced this no sound problem since (going on 3+ months now). Additionally, my cell phone no longer goes freaky-deaky when I attempt to charge it (hindsight being 20/20, multiple times/week the dang thing would show "charging", but not have any more juice after a 30min commute!) -- that problem is no more too! Anyway, it'll cost you nothing to have the battery tested and, in the end, what you spend in time/money for a new battery, you get back in sanity. Good luck!
  14. Like others have discussed before me, I have a bench seat up front and am blessed with the white USB port in the glove box. Prior to a recent HMI/radio/cluster upgrade #see below for a shout out#, I never had a need to use this thing...until now (so long 3M tape and magnetic mount)! Cutting to the chase, I'm interested in the following: Option 1 (proper, preferred) Replace current USB-A port with USB-C. Other topics I've read suggest this port allows one to play media files via iPod/iPad/MP3/USB devices and it's a straight shot to the HMI (or radio). It got me thinking...if accurate, it seems to me that I could simply swap this out with a USB-C port easily enough (or with a little finagling). Sure, I have the upgraded USB port in the flip up/down center console next to me, but I mostly drive with it in the up position and, as you can imagine, this cavity becomes a hot mess flipping it up and down all the time. The glove box, on the other hand, well, if the contents of it get mixed up, I've got bigger problems. Anyways, I've searched far and wide, but come up empty...no idea whether or not an exact fit from a newer truck (2019+?) even exists. Maybe the newest trucks lack an option for a bench seat or no longer provide a USB port in the glove box. Or maybe they do, but they're not on the USB-C bandwagon yet. As I travel frequently, I can say most/all 2019-2020 GM rentals (cars, SUVs) I've driven provide both USB-A and USB-C connections. Option 2 (gadgety, techy) Instead of struggling with Option 1, has anyone simply used a wireless charging pad (e.g., Anker) in the glove box? In other words, plug in a wireless charger and set the phone on it...neatly stored away "in the glove box"? I know the center console trucks have this charging capability and PGAMBOA has a YouTube video detailing the process of switching out the bench for a full console, but I'm not willing to part ways with my bench seat. LOL. Thoughts? Advice? As long as it's constructive, I'll take it...if it's hate, keep that to yourselves (and close family members). :0) Anyone? Bueller? #shout out to my peep(s) over @ WAMS#
  15. Ha, sounds like my 2015 truck...bought used...from Canada. She came with this super low profile smoke hood protector dookicky. No idea who makes it (no label, emblem or other identifying marks), but I can say I haven't seen another truck around here (New England) with anything close to the same profile. This AVS Aeroskin looks very similar, but again, no label/emblem (maybe it's a sticker/label that comes off?).
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.