laughey

Im'a gonna assume you're so new to the site that you ain't got time to search far and wide for others who've experienced similar issues. Welp, you are certainly in luck as your issue is quite common with the GM platform and a good amount of information exists in this forum. Unfortunately, there's no one size fits all answer to resolve your problem. Search is your friend...a good number of posts/dialog exist that may help you get closer to a solution. Good luck.

@spaceghost2000, I don't remember exactly what I did other than the standard light against the wall, certain distance, level ground, measurement thing. I believe I used the YT video from HR (or somewhere else) for the measurement, but I swear the SV4s came with a guide indicating the proper direction of the LEDs and having to adjust both the collars to set them properly...my beam pattern was unimpressive (not exactly horrible, but not good either) until I did this. HR should be able to get you that info...calling them isn't as much of a PITA that I thought it would be. I much prefer to communicate via email, text, forums, etc., but HR's non-verbal offerings sucked...I was hesitant to pull the trigger due to conflicting information regarding whether or not I'd need antiflickers. I called to confirm (they were non-committal...antiflickers were a definitely a maybe/probably) and why they recommended SV4's over the GTR's. The dude I spoke with was upfront and matter-o-fact about the 2015 Sierra with OEM projectors needing (preferring) the SV4s. He also said, "if we're wrong, return them for a full refund". So, I went with their recommendation and ZERO problems (other than not initially paying attention to the collar adjustments, of course). Still, took me 30 minutes, start to finish...including a pause to explain to my SO why I was "messing with my headlights again". One last thing, I did need to whip out my trusty ole headlight housing adjustment screwdriver...I forget the side, but one of them had to be adjusted a good amount...coming from HIDs that were aimed properly, that was kinda disturbing. The other side stayed "as is". I mean it when I say it, best mod I've done to the truck (outside of the Android Auto). I never need/use high beams anymore and I forget I have fog lights (hardly ever use them now). And no bulb outages, failures or general wonkiness that I experienced with the HIDs. Good luck!

So...am I correct in thinking if I want to add Apple CarPlay or Android Auto, that I should (and I quote), "See WAMS, reach out to WAMS, email WAMS, talk to Chris White at WAMS"? OK, got it. If I don't want take a chance on used, recovered or resold widgets on CL, eBay, etc., I just need to reach out to WAMS, tell WAMS what I have and what I want and WAMS will give me a price? For real? YYYYYYYYYESSSSS! It really doesn't get any easier than that...and it's PLUG-N-PLAY and it's programmed and you get to keep your old stuff (should you be like nostalgic and all). 86 pages and yet still, tons o' people coming through the forums asking, "What do...I do..." "Can I..." "Do I have to..." "Can't I just..."? Classic human nature. NOTE: Not only am I a visitor and an occasional poster on this site, I am also a WAMS customer (for life -- or until I give up on GM products).

The tweeters will go in the dash (and replace the ones that are there currently -- if you buy the setup from Crutchfield, they include the mounting brackets for both the doors and the dash. What's unclear is whether or not you'll need to run a direct connect to the tweeter (from the woofer) or if you can (if you want to) re-use the factory wiring.

I was doing NH OIL as well. It was inexpensive, but required annual re-application and it forces you to avoid automated car washes. I hadn't thoroughly washed the truck in over 3 years (not good in New England). Anyway, I got introduced to Wax-Oyl this past summer and so far, so good...been on a few months and have gone through numerous automagic undercarriagee washes with no negative results. While it's not 100% solid (I.e., like paint and the like), it clings to the frame and various parts well enough that you have to really get at it with a scraper to penetrate/remove it. The 2 obvious differences between them are (a) cost and (b) coverage. Wax-Oyl is 3x the cost ($750 vs $250) to apply and requires maintenance every 2-3 years ($180-250). Also, Wax-Oyl is only applied to key areas of the undercarriage whereas NH OIL covers everything. At first I didn't care about the overspray of the NH OIL, but then I started working underneath the truck and man, that stuff is nasty and it sucks when trying to work on stuff it's been applied to.

That's crazy talk, man. Maybe all these complaints were specific to HIDs (I had no troubles initially, but when the right side kept giving me fits...airbox...I decided to go the way of LEDs) or some Far East garbage LEDs from Amazon/Alibaba/eBay, but...GTR2, S-V4 or SL1 LED headlights...any one of them will work in your projectors. Contact HR with your specs...they should be able to tell you what you need. As I understood things (when I went fishing), the GTR2 and SL1 work without modifications to the housings. The S-V4 is a maybe. HR recommended the S-V4, but they couldn't promise I wouldn't need antiflicker modules (requiring mods to the housing). I took my chances and WOO HOO, I made ZERO modifications and require NO additional modules (antiflicker). My truck being a CA transplant (day or night, there's no way to shut off the headlights while in DRIVE...it's sad, but it's painfully true), been running them 24/7 @ 20K miles/year for well over a year with ZERO problems.

Just circling back on this. Given the effort to get in front of that airbox (what can I say, being short is not beneficial in this situation), re-aiming requirements (not everyone has access to a stretch of pavement that's flat and ends with a big white wall) and the lifetime warranty on the bulbs (the GTR2 LW comes from the manufacturer -- curious if the installer covers the labor cost in this...if so, $95 one time is a D-E-A-L). In the end, it's your money -- you earned it so spend it how you want (don't let anyone, except the SO, tell you how to). LOL Even candles are better than stock halogens.

I concur -- lots of people, err trucks, have this issue (feature), they (the owners) just don't know about it. ? I used some black spray foam to zap that gap! Trim off the excess once dried and problem solved. Other areas to hit/consider include the tiny pin holes along the front of the bed (assuming you have the OEM spray in bedliner). Last, but not least, for the "openness" under the bed rails, get yourself some closed cell foam (the gray stuff used for window shaker AC units) and fill in all the voids. Once inserted, you can quickly hit the ends with the spray foam to tack them into place. Can you tell I like spray foam? ? Whatever you do, don't sit at the head of the bed and look out the tailgate...talk about daylight that's damn near impossible to eliminate using weather-stripping. ?

Last year, I reached out to HR with every intention of purchasing their GTR Ultra 2 bulbs, but they recommended the S-V4 for my rig -- Sierra SLE with projector headlights -- I'm happy with them and they fit entirely inside the headlight housing (no holes in the dust covers!).

I feel your pain. Living in New England and dealing with that liquid brine crap the snow removal experts lay down on the roads in winter eats through these ladder frames like nothing. I've tried the annual oil undercoating (NH Oil Undercoating), but that stuff takes some time to "dry up" and I was unable to wash the undercarriage (pressure washing would remove it easily). This past fall, I went to a product called Wax-Oyl (sp?)...it's not cheap, but it hardens up better/quicker than the oil undercoating and now I can go through a car wash without risk/fear. According to the provider, it would require minimal touch-up every couple/three years...and my mechanic likes the Wax-Oyl much better too! :0) As for the Canadian DRL crap, I too am looking for the a solution. I've been all over the Internet trying to figure out...still unable to find one that suits me best. I have the SV4 LEDs in my projectors and love them, but I'd love them a ton more if they weren't on 24/7. I use remote start and park outside, so lighting up the night sky in my neighborhood when getting ready for work seems like an un-neighborly thing to do. I've talked to the folks at WAMS and they think it's a matter of reprogramming, but aren't 100% sure...doesn't seem like a good investment to buy the ODBII tool and pay for programming to "try it". After getting the AA upgrade, new rims/tires and a tonneau cover, the lighting crap is the last thing get this thing to perfect. I hope I can find a solution to this...I still have another 3.9 years to go (my typical vehicle turnover rate)...prolly won't buy another CA transplant for this reason. But then again, in 4 years, the US may be more like CA with their DRL ridiculousness.

My experience - I was in the same boat as you (and many others) and originally went Hylux/Morimoto HID 5000K...along with Morimoto XB fogs. HIDs required cutting into/through the headlight housing "caps" and mount the ballasts...hindsight being 20/20, it was silly doing all that "customizing". The light pattern for the HIDs was great, brightness far better than the OEM garbage, but I eventually started experiencing "light out" issues on the passenger side (airbox). All was great/fine for about a year or so and then nothing but issues (1-3x week). In the end, I transitioned to SV4 LEDs (from Headlight Revolution). Although I inquired about the GTRs, HR suggested SV4s instead...I can't remember the exact reason(s) for such, but I'm happy with the purchase. Going into it, the biggest question I had was whether or not I needed anti-flicker modules with the SV4s...the response I got from HR was, "umm, maybe". I went forward without them and, I bet correctly...turns out I didn't need them...and that's a good thing. There's not a whole lot of space inside the projector housing and needing/using the anti-flickers would've meant having to keep the "caps" with holes cored through, mounting outside the housing, etc. With a simple adjustment to the bulb collar (they have to be positioned vertical when locked in), I was able to tuck everything into the housing and go back to full/complete caps (no holes). At this point, been going over a year (I put roughly 20K miles/year) and with my headlights being DRLs as well, I've had no problems. Light output is as good, if not better than the HIDs, but more importantly to me, the SV4's color output is closer to the Morimoto XB LED fogs than the HIDs were. A few things to make note of: ~ Make sure to position/align the LED bulbs properly within the housing, else you won't get the proper light pattern or maximum brightness ~ Be sure to re-aim the headlights...sounds crazy, but going from OEM to HID to LED, I had to re-aim the headlights each time. OEMs were aimed properly, but when I moved to HIDs, I had to lower them considerably. Moving to LED, I had to lower one and raise the other (very odd). In the end, I'm (one of many) more than satisfied with the light output of anything not halogen on these rigs. :0) Good luck!

@BlkSS Ah ha, so it's sorta like Legos! Groovy. Thank you for the details/specifics.

For clarity, did you swap the entire OHC or just the mirror/shades flippy thing? Also, is that a rear power slide lever/switch on the RH side of the OHC? I'ma say "YEAH" -- the reflection in said mirror suggests 3 panes o' glass. ?

I saw that one too, but it's got that tailgate lift knob on it. Maybe I misunderstood @BlkSS but I'm thinking he swapped the entire console panel thingy (not just the mirror and sunglasses flip down). ? @pgamboa, can you work your magic and retro the knob on this for a pickup? ?

That's the one for the 'rados and 'erras, 2018-2020 era, yes, but the fella a few posts back mentioned using the OH console from a GM SUV...the SUV format includes the conversation mirror (hey now, that's what it's called)...which is what I'm looking for.

Maybe my googling skills aren't up to par this early in the AM, but that part # doesn't seem accurate? Or maybe the online resources I'm using don't carry it. Any chance you can double-check? Much appreciated.

2 Qs: 1) Should I (and others) be nervous that you're selling this? Changing careers? 2) How in the world do you only have 39K miles on that thing? Now you got me thinking I should sell my 2015 (with 81K). :0)

Could be your leaf springs? But then again, mine clunk all the time...mostly first thing in the AM and when driving over pronounced bumps or potholes at a slow pace (i.e., parking lots).

Two things (for sure)...this isn't stock and The Harness Dr wasn't involved in this. :0)

I bought genuine GM brand new "take-offs" from an outfit named "Elite Tires" on eBay. $475 for 4 rims...free shipping...from FL to NH.Arrived in 2 boxes. Minus very minor rub/markings (tires removed by a rookie handler) and being a little dusty/dirty, it was money more than well spent.

Maybe my eye site is failing me, but what style headlight do you have and what bulb do you have?

Hello everyone, I hope you don't mind me to taking over this post. I'm both interested and confused (at the same time)...lots of good information from previous responses, so I'm taking my shot! I currently have an HID (35w Hylux ballast and Morimoto bulbs) setup and, for the most part, all was working fine for the past year. As of late, the passenger side (yeah, the one that's a PITA) has been in and out...more out than in as of late. OK, completely out for the last 2 days. I suspect it's a connection thing, but then again, who the heck knows at this point (I haven't looked into this as of yet). In preparation of what's to come, I figured I would do a bit of investigating my options should it be the bulb needs replacing. And then I see this post. Maybe, just maybe, it's time to explore LEDs? I see a number of "reviews" on numerous web sites suggesting LEDs make life easier (less wiring, mess, etc.) in terms of troubleshooting. Now, before you all start stepping over one another in response to my questions, please know this: I'm from the US, but my rig is from Canada. 2015 GMC Sierra SLE with projector headlights and DRLs are the headlights (no aux/secondary lighting within the housing that operates as DRL). Being that she's from Canada, the headlights are active 24/7 whenever in DRIVE with no way to turn them off (like in the US version). Apparently a few have suggested this can be corrected with a BCM re-program, but seeing how I'd have to remove and send it in to WAMS, being without a vehicle during this time isn't something I can easily manage at this juncture. Maybe someday. OK, now that we're all up to speed, it seems the race is neck-and-neck between Diode Dynamics SL1 and GTR Lighting Ultra 2. Each appear to have CANBUS/PWM built-in (still don't know for sure if that's something I need to worry about, but...) and around the same price range-ish. My questions are: 1) What, if anything, do I need to know about DRL and headlight being one in the same? As I understand things, DRL/headlight combos push lower voltage in daylight hours and higher at night. Some details I've found suggest that using LEDs may result in the DRLs not working at all (fine with me) or that the headlight would simply push max voltage 24/7 (which is what I believe the HIDs do). I guess neither one would be a show stopper, but on to my next question... 2) Has anyone tried or is using either one of these? 3) What, if anything, is done/needed in terms of dust cover modifications (or does everything fit nicely inside the housing like they both suggest they would)? 3) Lastly, I just learned (apparently this is a thing, learning) that 9012 and 9006 bulbs are the same? Whaaaa?!?!? How can this be?!?!? Why?!?!?! I haven't been able to uncover the reason why the industry makes/markets/sells the same product over 2 different model numbers. Is it because the 9012 is low/high and a 9006 is simply low or high (but not both)? I get that my projectors use a shroud to remove the beam cutoff (which, BTW, has been problematic for me since day 1...doesn't always work) when switched from low to high. I would imagine the 9006 would accomplish the same thing, no? OK, let the chaos begin!

Like others have discussed before me, I have a bench seat up front and am blessed with the white USB port in the glove box. Prior to a recent HMI/radio/cluster upgrade #see below for a shout out#, I never had a need to use this thing...until now (so long 3M tape and magnetic mount)! Cutting to the chase, I'm interested in the following: Option 1 (proper, preferred) Replace current USB-A port with USB-C. Other topics I've read suggest this port allows one to play media files via iPod/iPad/MP3/USB devices and it's a straight shot to the HMI (or radio). It got me thinking...if accurate, it seems to me that I could simply swap this out with a USB-C port easily enough (or with a little finagling). Sure, I have the upgraded USB port in the flip up/down center console next to me, but I mostly drive with it in the up position and, as you can imagine, this cavity becomes a hot mess flipping it up and down all the time. The glove box, on the other hand, well, if the contents of it get mixed up, I've got bigger problems. Anyways, I've searched far and wide, but come up empty...no idea whether or not an exact fit from a newer truck (2019+?) even exists. Maybe the newest trucks lack an option for a bench seat or no longer provide a USB port in the glove box. Or maybe they do, but they're not on the USB-C bandwagon yet. As I travel frequently, I can say most/all 2019-2020 GM rentals (cars, SUVs) I've driven provide both USB-A and USB-C connections. Option 2 (gadgety, techy) Instead of struggling with Option 1, has anyone simply used a wireless charging pad (e.g., Anker) in the glove box? In other words, plug in a wireless charger and set the phone on it...neatly stored away "in the glove box"? I know the center console trucks have this charging capability and PGAMBOA has a YouTube video detailing the process of switching out the bench for a full console, but I'm not willing to part ways with my bench seat. LOL. Thoughts? Advice? As long as it's constructive, I'll take it...if it's hate, keep that to yourselves (and close family members). :0) Anyone? Bueller? #shout out to my peep(s) over @ WAMS#

For sure! Like I said, that dang USB port swap was a bit tricky for my setup...I had watched videos of swapping everything, so the cluster, HMI and radio were a breeze, but the two videos I found regarding the USB port failed to mention anything about a zip-tie/anchor that needed to be removed -- this prohibited me from simply popping it out (to disconnect the cables). In the end, I dismantled the cup holder cover to discover said anchor...along with dried up brown, crusty shi...err, stuff underneath. So I decided to give that a good cleaning in the process. Yep, that little detour added 30-40mins to my adventure. LOL. So glad I did this and did it this way...thanks to everyone on this thread, especially Harness Dr and WAMS, I saved myself a great deal of time and aggravation.

X-actly what you said...this TC looks triple A awesome! Well, except that it me far more than an hour...more like 2? Being a TC virgin prior to this, I took my time, thought things through, etc. LOVE THIS THING.