Mike GMC

My MX4 showed up today and was waiting for me when I got home from work. Weather was decent, so I installed it. Not too bad of a job. It did have to notch the corners of the GM drop in bed liner and drill holes in the liner for the drains. It took a bit to get it adjusted, but seems to fit very well now. If we get the rails/snow they are promising on Monday, I'll get to see how well it keeps the water out. Looks are great and it arrived in good condition. I was a bit worried about shipping something that big and heavy but they paid them really well. I love the flush fit. It got kinda dark on me, so I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Damn, RX is PRICEY now. $450 to start and goes up from there.

I wonder if the can would fit there with the stock intake? Would the supplied hoses be long enough to go around that massive intake silencer?

Any pics of your installation?

Oil consumed by engines goes to one or more of the following places: 1. Past the rings and valve guides and burned. 2. Through the intake from pcv systems and burned. 3. Out through openings and onto the vehicle or ground. If your engine is very healthy and well sealed, most will come from the pcv. As time goes on, a higher and higher percentage will come from the rings and guides due to wear.

That moroso would work great one a 6.0 3/4 ton, but the LT series in the 1/2 ton would need a lot of additional plumbing.

Do you have adequate space under the can to access the drain and put something under it to collect the garbage coming out of it? How does it affect access to the dipstick?

That would mean that the catch can somehow is removing oil from the engine that was not already on it's way to the intake, or you engine has worn in a bit has a bit more blow by than it used to. I don't see how the catch can could possibly suck oil out of the engine, so I'm guessing he latter.

I think you'd be adding the oil either way. The catch can just means you engine did not ingest it.

I was looking at the UPR online. Looks like the kit without the CSS is $269 on UPR's site, not terrible. But if I can get it at a discount, that would be great. Do you know who to contact?

This is my second GDI GM vehicle. The first was an 08 Caddy CTS withe the 3.6 V6. At about 40k miles, I noticed a puddle of oil in the intake tube. I pulled it off and cleaned it. While it was off, I notice the TB was oily. Cleaned that as well. Looked into the manifold. It was full of oil. Pulled the upper intake and cleaned that. While it was off, I could see the intake valves, they were totally gummed up. Spent another 2 hours cleaning that up. I ordered a catch can the next day. Everything stayed clean after that, at least until I traded it at 111k for this truck. I used to get about 3-4 ounces of fluid out of the catch can every 4-5k miles. The fluid was a combination of oil and water vapors so it looked like chocolate milk. Therefore, I am sold on the need for a catch can on all GDI engines. The new Fords went to a combination of port and direct inject, my guess is to combat this issue. My old was was an RX, but I can't seem to find them anymore.

Yes, I know this has been covered before and yes I did do the search. I've read through much of it and it seems they mostly turn into a debate on whether or not they are worth it without much info on the different catch can options. I'm convinced they are worth it and can do not harm even if it end up not helping anything. So, please let's stick differences in the options and leave the debate about how useful they are to other threads. I'm looking for recommendations for a good catch can for a bone stock 2015 5.3 Sierra 1500. What would you recommend and why? I see Elite has a couple different options. Are they any good? What else is out there?

Still got the Camaro Mark?

How long has the eibach kit been available? If it's brand new, that might explain why no one one here has tried it yet. I am familiar with their springs, but this the first I've heard of eibach branded shocks.

Just ordered a Bakflip MX4. I'll post up again once it arrives and I get it installed. I liked the MX4 because it's 4 section. Makes it shorter and more open bed when all but the last section is open plus it doesn't block the cargo light when all the way open. I also looked at the x4 revolver, but I was concerned with the longevity of the vinyl on it in the Colorado sun. At least withe MX4, I can put wax on the powder coated panels to try and keep them from fading out. Tonneau cover world is having a sale so the price was better right now.

My 15 has 31,500 miles and 905 on the hour meter. That works out to an average speed of 34.8 mph. Seems a bit low for most of the driving I do. Average will probably climb the longer I own it. I just got it a couple months ago.

I wasn't suggesting you do a swap. But out, fix and back in would take about the same amount of time as a swap.

It can wait, I just don't know how fast it will leak and how often you will have to fill up the oil. I did an engine swap in my garage with a helper in 1 weekend, about 20 hours. Now that I've done it once, I could probably cut that down about 3-4 hours. I don't know your skill or experience level so I can't guess how long it would take you. I'm certainly no expert, so you can likely match my time easily. The more I think about what you need to do, pulling the engine may be the quickest way. It's really not that hard.

Judging by the amount of threads left, I bet it broke off flush. You will have to remove the pan to fix it. Even then that bolt is at the back edge of the block and access will suck while the trans and flexplate are installed. It actually threads into the rear cover, not the block. It might be easier to pull the tranny and just replace the rear cover. While you're in there, replace the pan gasket. Also take a close look at you cam position sensor. I found that mine was leaking badly when I pulled my engine.

PM sent.

What bed size is you undercover ultra flex for, Dodgersfan? That is one of the 3 models I am considering. The other two are the Bakflip F1 and MX4.

That's the problem with VIN based ordering. I had a similar issue when I ordered my parts. However, I declined to give them my VIN and they actually held the order to verify it. I informed them that I knew those where the parts I wanted and to release the order. I suppose this is a useful back check if you're not trying to change something, but it's annoying if you are. I used a different site, GMpartsnow.com, but it looks like they use the same system. I would guess the heated wheel clock spring is cheaper because they are a higher volume item. I doubt they sell many nonheated units. I can't verify your wheel part number because mine was different, black with red stitching. I suggest you call the folks you ordered from and explain what you're doing and let them help you verify you part numbers.

If the fpcm is bad, would he hear the pump run with key on?

What happens if you disconnect the fuel line from the rail and turn the key to on to start the pump? If no fuel come out, you may have a clogged fuel line. If fuel does come out, you may just have been air locked.

I believe the regulator is part of the pump assembly in 08. Did you replace the whole thing, or did you replace the pump in the old assembly? What are you getting for pressure at th rail?