Mike GMC

What bed size is you undercover ultra flex for, Dodgersfan? That is one of the 3 models I am considering. The other two are the Bakflip F1 and MX4.

That's the problem with VIN based ordering. I had a similar issue when I ordered my parts. However, I declined to give them my VIN and they actually held the order to verify it. I informed them that I knew those where the parts I wanted and to release the order. I suppose this is a useful back check if you're not trying to change something, but it's annoying if you are. I used a different site, GMpartsnow.com, but it looks like they use the same system. I would guess the heated wheel clock spring is cheaper because they are a higher volume item. I doubt they sell many nonheated units. I can't verify your wheel part number because mine was different, black with red stitching. I suggest you call the folks you ordered from and explain what you're doing and let them help you verify you part numbers.

If the fpcm is bad, would he hear the pump run with key on?

What happens if you disconnect the fuel line from the rail and turn the key to on to start the pump? If no fuel come out, you may have a clogged fuel line. If fuel does come out, you may just have been air locked.

I believe the regulator is part of the pump assembly in 08. Did you replace the whole thing, or did you replace the pump in the old assembly? What are you getting for pressure at th rail?

Is this purely cosmetic, or does this cover serve a function? The one on my 08 Caddy had a bunch of sound deadening material under it.

Not sure, but could that meat atmosphere, meaning a leak?

I tied a string to the old one before I pulled it out. Tied the string to the new one and pulled it back through. Still took a bit of wiggling to get it into place, that made it easier.

Well, I got it done. I now have a heated wheel! It took a couple hours though. One tip for anyone still working on this, raise the front so the tires are just off the ground. Makes turning the wheel for airbag removal much easier.

Cool. Makes me feel better and that I likely have the right parts.

So my parts arrived today. Looking at the clock spring, it has 2 connectors for the air bag. The video above posted by bkesting, only shows 1 air bag connector. I haven't gotten mine apart yet, but that seem odd that some would single and others would have 2 connectors. Any insight to why there would be more that 1 style would be appreciated.

That's awesome! I'll be doing that next weekend if my parts show up this week.

I checked mine this evening. It had some flex, but not as hard as some have described. I cut a short piece of a 1/4" trim board I had in the garage. Got it set in there and the small amount of flex I had is all but gone. I'll see if it's noticeable on my way to work tomorrow. I never would have guessed the pedal assembly would flex like that.

I ordered the heated wheel 84222913 black with red stitching, and 23381964 clock spring for heated wheel.

I recommend you go to a place like I did. I called to verify I was ordering the right parts and sure enough, I got the wheel wrong. I was off by one digit. Apparently, there are about 30 different wheels for these trucks. I found the black one with the right options, but I wanted black with red stitching to match my existing wheel. They got me the right part number so now I have confidence I ordered the right parts.

What good would a switch do if there is no heating element in the wheel? After reading through the very long thread, I ordered a new wheel and clock spring today from GMpartsnow.com (Berger Chevrolet). I have the power pedals, so I'm counting on the existing connector being live. If it's not, I guess I have to figure out the wire to the fuse box. I've had lots of cars that sat outside, but this is the first one that really seems to need a heated wheel. It's almost like it's filled with that gell from blue ice. It just stays cold.

Are you sure you have the shifter reinstalled correctly? It sounds like it might be the park sensor switch. If it thinks your not in park, it won't start. Just an idea.

It's difficult but can be done. You'll have to remove it and find a piece of hose that fits over the sensor tightly. Fit a vacuum nipple into the other end. Use a hand vacuum pump to change the "pressure" and read the ohms across the pins. That's the best method I can think of.

Unfortunately, new does not necessarily mean functional. If you have a multi meter, search for the correct readings for each sensor and check them. Have you tried starting with the throttle open part way? I had a bad IAC and it acted like your, but would start and run if I held the throttle pedal down a bit. Also, check your MAP sensor on the back of the manifold.

I have been having some weird fluctuatons in pressure readings on my 2000 Sierra. It never goes to 0, but it does read lower (25 ish) at idle when cold and about 40 at idle warm. It won't read over 40 at any rpm cold, but will hit 50 to 60 warm. I replaced the sensor because it was leaking and no change in readings. Does a 2000 have this screen filter? I didn't see one, but I didn't know to look for it. The needle on the gauge bounces a bit even when warm. I'm thinking about buying a mechanical gauge just to see if the dash gauge can be believed. Can the boss on the oil cooler attachment cover plate be used for a mechanical gauge? I don't have the cooler, just the factory cover over the ports. I've also read that the gauge stepper motor may be faulty. Searching for a new one, all I for stepper motors listed is 03 and up. Does my 2000 use the same stepper motor?