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About ksenter

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  • Location
    NW FL
  • Drives
    14 silverado z71

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  1. LED woahs

    never touched base with the manufacturer. I did reach out to the vendor, CarID, which was absolutely no help at all. They offered to take the led bulbs back but offered no assistance otherwise. Long ago, I ordered an "anti-flicker" harness and that resolved the issue completely. plug and play, perfect. I've had these on the truck for months now and absolutely love them as I drive in very dark, unlit, places often...way out in the middle of nowhere. Impressive lighting! posted for information so that it may help others in the future.
  2. This might sound really ignorant, but hear me out before you decide. I am looking to invest about $250 under the seat of my 14 crew cab. I've been looking at some cheaper boxes built for dual subs and been looking at the specs of some lesser expensive subs, they dont seem to match the boxes being offered very well. It seems as all the dual sub boxes give approx .75 feet per sub, but most 10 or 12" subs require 1.3-1.5 minimum volume for efficiency, most better subs requiring more. Does anyone make a box that gives the required internal volume for a "lesser expensive" but quality sub for a single sub installation? Do you recommend using the supplied underseat boxes (no particular brand, we all know what exists on amazon, ebay, local stereo shops, etc) and just slamming 2 subs in them and go? Or would it be preferred to get one of those dual sub boxes, close off one opening, and use total internal volume to suit one sub more efficiently/effectively? I'm looking to invest about $250 total, box and sub, under the backseat of my silverado. I'm not overly concerned about losing the space, retaining the space, etc. But I'm pretty much at a mind-block with all the available options. I plan to power my underseat sub setup with an older zapco 500.1 that I have had for years and have been using successfully in my past vehicles. I know there's more "modern" and more efficient power packages available, but I still have this one and it works quite well, upgrading is not an option at this point.
  3. Ranger Raptor? okayyyyyy... I also see things in the video that makes me wonder if its hidden subliminal type info...big ol' CONROD sign, connecting rod? haha
  4. recognized the parking lot immediately. I live about 25 minutes from there. Good looking truck! You watch the blues yesterday?
  5. RESOLUTION: Anti-Flicker Harness from XenonDepot fixed the issue. Plug and Play, no worries, no problems. RESOLUTION: Anti-Flicker Harness from XenonDepot fixed the issue. Plug and Play, no worries, no problems.
  6. Hello, I drive a 2014 silverado z71 LT and recently installed Lumen G8 LED low-beam and foglight replacements. The fogs work wonderfully, you can actually see them from the cab now. The low beams are excellent and SUPER bright...once they power up properly. Issue is they will come on for about 4 seconds, then shut down. Over the next 2 minutes time they will quickly flicker once or twice and continue to not work. Approx 2 minutes later they will power on and work well until you shut down the truck and run through the same sequence again. I have read this may be due to PWM or Pulse Width Modulation that power the low-beams, particularly for the DRL. However this also happens at night when the sensor would actuate standard headlights, not DRL. Swapping from Auto lights to Power-On makes no difference. Would this be resolved with a plug-n-play anti-flicker harness or will this need a resistor/capacitor orrrr...... I'm pretty good hands-on turning wrenches and installing things, but wiring/electrical has always been a nemesis of mine. Your assistance is greatly appreciated in this topic.
  7. We are 188 pages deep at this point so I feel maybe it is best to just ask now. I just installed Lumen G8 LED conversions to both my low beams and fogs. Fogs work excellently, no problems at all. The low beams work great...after about 2 minutes. Initially they will power on and work, but then they shut down, flicker a time or two over the next 2 minutes, and then power up and work fine. I have read something about PWM or pulse width modulation to the DRL (daytime running lights) and the LEDS not getting a constant signal. These lights were supposed to be plug and play, no issues, yada yada. However, that is not the case. I'm sure there's a simple plug & play solution for a capacitor or anti-flicker device, but I would seek clarification on this if I may. I'd be interested to know which direction to head at this point. I would appreciate anyones help at this point, particularly if you've ran into this issue and how did you resolve it. Thankyou EDIT: 14 silverado z71

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