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amxguy1970 last won the day on August 29 2019

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  1. Does 4 degrees make that much of a difference at -26 below to -30? Tyler
  2. Because they are a paid sponsor... They have been sponsoring teams and the series for decades. The K02's aren't what is winning, it is their desert racing KR series of tires in most cases. The K02's are the most over-rated tire since they were the original all terrain tire, you pay for the name and cool look. Balancing problems, noise, mpg hits due to heavy weight and hydro-planning issues because of the interlocking tread not excavating water properly aren't exactly king of the hill specs. I would rather buy an equal performing tire for $75 less per tire and doesn't rest on its name than something every other person has. It is the tire of choice for the suburban dad, 4wd truck, leveling kit, K02 tires wrapped around a black off road wheel like methods or fuels. Buy a tire for what you are going to be seeing terrain wise, if you have a better chance of running in to a muddy field than sand, well a sand tire won't do you much good when you're hunting. OP, as many have directed previously anything that is lighter (stay P-rated), closer to stock size, skinnier and has a less aggressive tire will help claw back some mpg. How much, it all depends but will help. I am like you, I didn't buy a truck for the mpg but if I can save a few why not? As long as it takes me where I want to go and does what I need to then I am all for it. No one ever got rich by not saving money... Tyler
  3. You have done the measurements and seen both, not sure what other information you are looking for. Your measurments should tell you if the rails are wider apart or if the length is different unless you can't read a tape measure? Seems you could be telling us the difference and if it will work. Try it and see. Worse comes to it you are out $300 and it doesn't fit or you sell it and out maybe $100 or it works with little or no adjustments. If it were me I would buy the new cover and sell it in two years and re-coop half the cost as they will still be building them and someone will want it with how many of these they make. I bought mine used from someone just like you, leasing... Tyler
  4. It isn't a separate system like the SUV's, the rear vents are fairly useless as it fully depends on what the front is doing. Everyone was complaining about not having them (rear vents) in the previous gens and in reality they make the HVAC system less efficient as it either cools down the heat or warms up the cold air before getting to the back, it is more a placebo effect. Not having a separate blower means the air coming out is just trickling out, not helping much, it is the same in any brand that tries to use the front system for rear vents. The best you can do is manually turn on the floor vent and crank it up some as there are rear vents under the seats (should be still as there always were in previous gens under the front seats), that should help send more heat to the rear or point the two center vents towards the back, close off the rear console vents and turn that up. In the summer that is what works best for cooling. I rode in the back of my dark truck in July in west Texas with the two center vents pointed in the rear of my K2 and had to ask to turn down the air as it was getting cold. Should work the same way with blowing the heat to the back. Good luck, that is some brutally cold air. Tyler
  5. Huh? You got proof of this? There are countless trucks out there with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with AFM (both old and newer designs). My buddies Tahoe was pushing 300k when he traded it in with no issues only doing regular maintenance and no oil usage. A few have had failed lifters which I know will be brought up but non AFM vehicles have had failed lifters too. So just curious if you can provide some proof to make this statement or if this is just an assumption for not liking AFM? Considering you have no long term experience with your own vehicle... Tyler
  6. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, there is no difference. GM (or any manufacturer) wouldn't have one plant supply a completely different quality product than another from different locations. They want them to be indistinguishable regardless of production location. Tons of threads already on this same exact subject, read those, but they do regular inspections of product from both places and I promise there is no difference. Those that say there is just have some type of gotta buy american value in them and that is all that is driving it. For me, I would rather keep my costs down than paying UAW build prices for the same skilled worker... Tyler
  7. Same tire, one on a 20 and one on a 22, the 22 will ride a little harsher (hard to distinguish but it will, each person is different), it will be more susceptible to pot hole damage, it will be heavier which negatively affects acceleration and mpg (metal is heavier than rubber), it will respond to steering responses better so handling will be slightly improved but it will be more expensive in most cases. Going from a 22 to 18 is a much more drastic difference in ride. Straight smooth highway they will all ride the same, it is broken pavement that you will notice a difference. It is effectively like adding 5-10 lbs of air in your tires with the reduction in sidewall absorption. Some think larger looks better, I am in the other camp where prefer the look of some sidewall on my trucks along with the benefits that come with it... Tyler
  8. Isn't that the pot calling the kettle black... Tyler
  9. I will next go around. I currently have a CC SB Silverado and my dad has a CC LB Canyon. It is smaller, but I am 6'5 and 275 and am very comfortable in it (he is 6'4 and 225), no problem on hours long road trips. I have lots of head room and I don't even have the seat all the way back.. The longer bed is awesome, not to mention the added room in the garage (there is a big difference in room around the two trucks). I do off road in the back country every so often and the smaller size would be fantastic. He continually gets about 4 mpg better than me (3 with the larger tires and level). I would lose some interior room which it is usually just me or my girlfriend. The road trip out west with another couple we took last summer would have been more cramped but next time we do that in a few years where it involves back country off roading he will probably have his truck (a mid size) and we can each take our own and camp out of the back of them. Otherwise we usually take their Traverse or our Rav4 which both are more comfortable than my truck in terms or ride and handling (seating is subjective) and nearly as much legroom. Either way with deals now going on with the mid size trucks (they didn't have that when I bought my silverado as they were new back in 2015) the midsize trucks are still $14k cheaper trim for trim. Not sure where you guys are getting the same price thing at. Just checking Laura GMC the cheapest Sierra Denali (CC SB 4wd) is $52k after taking $15k off and the cheapest Canyon Denali (CC LB 4wd) is $38k with discount. The mid size truck will get better mpg, be cheaper, it certainly drives much better, I much prefer driving his truck minus the room (I am in no way cramped). It will tow my car and trailer, our two jet skis (and the boat I plan to get), holds my mountain bike, hold over 1.5 tons in the bed and transports my nephew in a rear facing seat or hold 4 people. I am not buying a truck for the status, it is a tool so it isn't V8 full size for life for me. If a smaller truck can do everything I need it to and save some mpg while making parking in parking garages or lots a little easier why not? Plus I would have been more comfortable on Goose Lake Road in a mid size than my full size that is for sure... With the next gen midsizers if they can add an inch or so to the rear seats, put in that sweet 2.7 from the silverado (which should comfortably get it a good mpg bump over the current gen and silverado) while adding a few more features it will be a winner even more so than the current truck is. Tyler
  10. Anything moved from center hub outside of stock will add wear on the wheel bearing. The weight and forces and being pushed out further rather than being equally distributed on the bearing. The further you go the more it will wear, it just depends on how much you want to go. A small 1/4 inch spacer will wear more than stock but much less than a 1.5 inch spacer and so forth. Same logic applies to levels, a 1 inch level will wear more than stock but not nearly as much as a 2.5 inch level. I found a great diagram a while ago that visually showed what happens to the wheel bearing as you move hub but I can't find it, if I do I will put it in here. Spacers are a cheap way of getting the wheels pushed out and can cause issues. If you are using the truck for any towing, hauling or off roading I would avoid them unless it is just for stance on a street truck then it should be ok for a while. Wheel adapters are a different story but the same song on the wheel bearing. Tyler
  11. I am guessing you are never going to leave the pavement or put that truck to work? That kind of stuff happens, you got the first one out of the way, put a little touch up paint on it and move on... Tyler
  12. A few of the recommendations are going to ride worse and be louder than the BFG's as they are hybrid tires which are between an AT and MT tire (Wildpeak AT3w and Duratrac). Though they are good in snow for all intensive purposes they are going to ride worse and be louder in regular driving and heavier as they are usually only available in E-rated sizes. If you are wanting to keep the ride stay with a P-rated tire unless you plan on towing often or leave the pavement regularly for rough terrain. Sounds like the Cooper AT3 4s would be right down your alley. They are a less aggressive than the KO's yet still have some good looks. They have a deep tread for a p-rated tire (14/32 in the size I am looking at) and they are 3 peak mountain rated and known for a solid quiet ride with excellent traction. Give them a look, they have a long warranty and are US made... Tyler
  13. He wasn't wrong, you go on any forum and try to play something off as higher end or different model and you will get called out for it. Cobra emblems on a base mustang, SS decals on a V6 camaro or FX4 stickers on a 2wd it will be called out. On forums you just have to have tough skin and if not tread lightly... Tyler
  14. We've had a couple AMC's (one 73 AMX and a 70 Javelin), no longer have either of them. My personal choice is my 06 GTO; bought it new and drove it for 4 years. Sold it to me smart and bought my aunts Altima, bought it back last year with only another 3k miles on it when the new owner called asking (he promised to give me first dibs), it will be staying for a very long time. Tyler
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