amxguy1970

Damn we have some real tough guy asholes in here hiding behind their brights. Geez, some of you sound like they are doing it to be an dick but they are literally just getting blinded by your lights, if you are stock that isn't on you just the angle. Give them a quick flash so they know and move on, no need to try and whip it out or one of you will come across a guy with a Vision X that will make you put it in the ditch. Straighten up guys... If those of you are leveled and getting flashed that is on you for being a dick, I can only imagine how painful that much be for those elders with eye issues. Tyler

Can, yes, but that is a horrible idea and will very quickly ruin your front end. People like you are why I won't buy a used truck, who knows what someone did that they shouldn't have done and take it off and try and sell their mistake. Keep it simple, save for a lift or do a small level. The higher the level the more wear you add, not to mention the wider you set your wheels (big offset or spacers) and heavy tires also wear out items like wheel bearings and ball joints faster along with the high level wearing out CV axles and ball joints. Poke around, you will get some good info. A 4" level will do more harm than good with your truck and make it less capable and look silly. Tyler

Never do that, that is recovery 101 on what not to do, that ball isn't made for that and if it snaps is now a deadly projectile... If you have 2" loop ends (most do) you can put them in the receiver hitch and run the pin through that. Now if you yank hard enough it can bend and get the pin stuck but it would take a hard pull. Number 1 is of course having arear D-ring shackle, that is ideal. Tyler

All covers leak some, especially at the rear tail gate, none are 100% water proof. Add some extra gasket to the front where there are holes and a seal kit on the tailgate and it will be much improved but not bone dry in all situations. $500 isn't much, you bought a soft cover, the 99.99% water resistant covers cost $900 or more and are the hard variety... Tyler

? I forgot about this story, you probably don't want to run around telling everyone the reason you have 4-lo is so you could use it that one time because you were up against a curb... It is 4wd, it is all how the transfer case sends the power and what is in it. AWD makes the decisions for you and can send power at different percentages front to rear where 4wd is locked 50-50. As far as I know a 4wd transfer case is usually a chain connecting the drive lines where an AWD is clutch pack. Tyler

Not an idiot, just lazy. It doesn't matter where the spacer goes it matter how much. The higher you go on stock control arms the worse it is for them. A lift is better but that kit you posted is also just spacers with a new control arm. Note it is a preload spacer so it will make the ride rougher. If this is just a street truck (is it 2wd or 4wd) then the type of lift won't matter too much in terms of failing but if you leave the pavement often and plan to run big heavy tires (which is looks like with those BFG's) then more can fail sooner, just have to pay to play. Either way take your time and research, that is the best way to get info rather than a few responses in your thread. There could very easily be a few that is given incorrect info but the info that you really want is in another thread that they aren't responding to yours. I take weeks looking around, googling and checking different forums and information before making a decision. A search hint, if you type your question and then type forums at the end in google it will bring up a ton of info here and other forums that pertain as well as useful info from other brands to give you the skinny on how things work or particular makes of shocks/company lifts. Tyler

Well that just isn't true. There have been people who have tuned out AFM with issues and people with AFM that never had an issue (most are the latter) it isn't going to magically make it more reliable tuning it out, there is zero evidence of that just internet theories that don't consider the other side of not having it work. I am starting to think that tuning companies or those that work for them are behind this theory. There are so few that have had issues with AFM that should be zero concern, there are millions of those engines out there and failures are minimal (in the decimal percent); it is a machine built and assembled by people so there will be rogue failures, nothing to scare others about. The better mpg wasn't because of the AFM being turned off but tuned to be more efficient, if you had it tuned how it is now and run AFM you would be getting even better MPG. AFM does save mpg over always running on 8 cylinders no mater which way you slice it... Finally the oil consumption is mostly attributed to early LS 5.3 architecture and the piston rings used, 2014 in the redesign to LT architecture those were changed as well as many other parts and designs and not much is out there about any oil consumption now. People tend to hang on old issues and think they apply to new ones and that is not the case. Just like the valve build up, that was from early adapters of direct injection, most new models it is minimal as they have learned how to handle that side effect, but people still think it applies today and their valves are going to look like an early 2000's VW or Audi... OP, don't worry about the reliability of the 5.3, stock it will most likely last you a very long time with proper maintenance as it is the most widely used. The two newer motors (3.0 and 2.7) should as well as they do so much testing and validation on them both in real world and with computers. My buddy had a pre 2014 Tahoe with the 5.3 and AFM (2012 I believe?) that went nearly 300k with out issue before trading it in, he drove a lot for his job and these newer gen 5.3's are even more reliable. Tyler

You mean like the hundreds of thousands of hours and tens of millions of dollars spent designing and testing the trail boss suspension? The same one that is raised 2" with matched shocks, hybrid tires, protection and excellent capabilities? Guess you can always throw on a level with some more aggressive and larger tires and deem it "more useable" while raising the center of gravity. This doesn't at all look capable and useable as it was designed from the factory... Tyler

You call BS on anyone being able to do it at their home without issue? I call BS on your BS call. I am sure tons of people have knocked it out on their own at home, including myself. We used an air compressor to speed up the change with the spring compressors, didn't run in to issues and it was done in an afternoon. Was a little nerve-racking when compressed but went just fine, next time though if I ever have to do it again I will take them to a shop to knock it out. Tyler

So 1.9" is safe? The correct answer is 0" as noted by others in this thread unless the GM level is installed by GM. Tyler

He is going to add 20's to the off road version of the truck, I highly doubt that will be an issue as it won't be seeing any off roading that requires the more aggressive tire and larger sidewall, just a street truck so the highway performance I am sure will be welcomed. Tyler

Should be a pretty short story, you realized how silly it is and all the trade offs of having big wheels causes and decided to improve your truck with some proper sized wheels and tires... Thanks for not just asking how big you can go. That is interesting the stock 22's are nearly a 33" tire, wonder why GM didn't put the 265/70/18 on there stock in keeping close to the stock diameter of all tires? Either way shouldn't be any issue considering the stock size is that large but don't quote me on that, I deal with K2 body style. Tyler

Yeah because they have two completely different designs and fording capabilities. In any case a 5.3 can get hydro-locked the slightly better 6.2 can as well... In any way there has to be more to the story as people always want to cover their own a*s. A truck just doesn't get hydro-locked in a couple of inches of water without some extreme measure taken as they are tested significantly for that exact issue. Tyler

But it is a Denali... Tyler

^ This as my rear fenders already got hammered stock on gravel roads. Plus I don't want to have anything that could potentially cause catastrophic issues when towing/hauling heavy or being used off road, spacers don't have the best track record for reliability. I guess if it doesn't do much truck stuff it is fine. Not to mention I kind of am a fan of my wheel bearings and would rather not put them under any extra strain as replacing them isn't a fun task. To each their own, stuff like this is why I won't buy a used truck. Tyler