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Everything posted by amxguy1970

  1. Damn we have some real tough guy asholes in here hiding behind their brights. Geez, some of you sound like they are doing it to be an dick but they are literally just getting blinded by your lights, if you are stock that isn't on you just the angle. Give them a quick flash so they know and move on, no need to try and whip it out or one of you will come across a guy with a Vision X that will make you put it in the ditch. Straighten up guys... If those of you are leveled and getting flashed that is on you for being a dick, I can only imagine how painful that much be for those elders with eye issues. Tyler
  2. Can, yes, but that is a horrible idea and will very quickly ruin your front end. People like you are why I won't buy a used truck, who knows what someone did that they shouldn't have done and take it off and try and sell their mistake. Keep it simple, save for a lift or do a small level. The higher the level the more wear you add, not to mention the wider you set your wheels (big offset or spacers) and heavy tires also wear out items like wheel bearings and ball joints faster along with the high level wearing out CV axles and ball joints. Poke around, you will get some good info. A 4" level will do more harm than good with your truck and make it less capable and look silly. Tyler
  3. Never do that, that is recovery 101 on what not to do, that ball isn't made for that and if it snaps is now a deadly projectile... If you have 2" loop ends (most do) you can put them in the receiver hitch and run the pin through that. Now if you yank hard enough it can bend and get the pin stuck but it would take a hard pull. Number 1 is of course having arear D-ring shackle, that is ideal. Tyler
  4. All covers leak some, especially at the rear tail gate, none are 100% water proof. Add some extra gasket to the front where there are holes and a seal kit on the tailgate and it will be much improved but not bone dry in all situations. $500 isn't much, you bought a soft cover, the 99.99% water resistant covers cost $900 or more and are the hard variety... Tyler
  5. ? I forgot about this story, you probably don't want to run around telling everyone the reason you have 4-lo is so you could use it that one time because you were up against a curb... It is 4wd, it is all how the transfer case sends the power and what is in it. AWD makes the decisions for you and can send power at different percentages front to rear where 4wd is locked 50-50. As far as I know a 4wd transfer case is usually a chain connecting the drive lines where an AWD is clutch pack. Tyler
  6. Not an idiot, just lazy. It doesn't matter where the spacer goes it matter how much. The higher you go on stock control arms the worse it is for them. A lift is better but that kit you posted is also just spacers with a new control arm. Note it is a preload spacer so it will make the ride rougher. If this is just a street truck (is it 2wd or 4wd) then the type of lift won't matter too much in terms of failing but if you leave the pavement often and plan to run big heavy tires (which is looks like with those BFG's) then more can fail sooner, just have to pay to play. Either way take your time and research, that is the best way to get info rather than a few responses in your thread. There could very easily be a few that is given incorrect info but the info that you really want is in another thread that they aren't responding to yours. I take weeks looking around, googling and checking different forums and information before making a decision. A search hint, if you type your question and then type forums at the end in google it will bring up a ton of info here and other forums that pertain as well as useful info from other brands to give you the skinny on how things work or particular makes of shocks/company lifts. Tyler
  7. Well that just isn't true. There have been people who have tuned out AFM with issues and people with AFM that never had an issue (most are the latter) it isn't going to magically make it more reliable tuning it out, there is zero evidence of that just internet theories that don't consider the other side of not having it work. I am starting to think that tuning companies or those that work for them are behind this theory. There are so few that have had issues with AFM that should be zero concern, there are millions of those engines out there and failures are minimal (in the decimal percent); it is a machine built and assembled by people so there will be rogue failures, nothing to scare others about. The better mpg wasn't because of the AFM being turned off but tuned to be more efficient, if you had it tuned how it is now and run AFM you would be getting even better MPG. AFM does save mpg over always running on 8 cylinders no mater which way you slice it... Finally the oil consumption is mostly attributed to early LS 5.3 architecture and the piston rings used, 2014 in the redesign to LT architecture those were changed as well as many other parts and designs and not much is out there about any oil consumption now. People tend to hang on old issues and think they apply to new ones and that is not the case. Just like the valve build up, that was from early adapters of direct injection, most new models it is minimal as they have learned how to handle that side effect, but people still think it applies today and their valves are going to look like an early 2000's VW or Audi... OP, don't worry about the reliability of the 5.3, stock it will most likely last you a very long time with proper maintenance as it is the most widely used. The two newer motors (3.0 and 2.7) should as well as they do so much testing and validation on them both in real world and with computers. My buddy had a pre 2014 Tahoe with the 5.3 and AFM (2012 I believe?) that went nearly 300k with out issue before trading it in, he drove a lot for his job and these newer gen 5.3's are even more reliable. Tyler
  8. You mean like the hundreds of thousands of hours and tens of millions of dollars spent designing and testing the trail boss suspension? The same one that is raised 2" with matched shocks, hybrid tires, protection and excellent capabilities? Guess you can always throw on a level with some more aggressive and larger tires and deem it "more useable" while raising the center of gravity. This doesn't at all look capable and useable as it was designed from the factory... Tyler
  9. You call BS on anyone being able to do it at their home without issue? I call BS on your BS call. I am sure tons of people have knocked it out on their own at home, including myself. We used an air compressor to speed up the change with the spring compressors, didn't run in to issues and it was done in an afternoon. Was a little nerve-racking when compressed but went just fine, next time though if I ever have to do it again I will take them to a shop to knock it out. Tyler
  10. So 1.9" is safe? The correct answer is 0" as noted by others in this thread unless the GM level is installed by GM. Tyler
  11. He is going to add 20's to the off road version of the truck, I highly doubt that will be an issue as it won't be seeing any off roading that requires the more aggressive tire and larger sidewall, just a street truck so the highway performance I am sure will be welcomed. Tyler
  12. Should be a pretty short story, you realized how silly it is and all the trade offs of having big wheels causes and decided to improve your truck with some proper sized wheels and tires... Thanks for not just asking how big you can go. That is interesting the stock 22's are nearly a 33" tire, wonder why GM didn't put the 265/70/18 on there stock in keeping close to the stock diameter of all tires? Either way shouldn't be any issue considering the stock size is that large but don't quote me on that, I deal with K2 body style. Tyler
  13. Yeah because they have two completely different designs and fording capabilities. In any case a 5.3 can get hydro-locked the slightly better 6.2 can as well... In any way there has to be more to the story as people always want to cover their own a*s. A truck just doesn't get hydro-locked in a couple of inches of water without some extreme measure taken as they are tested significantly for that exact issue. Tyler
  14. ^ This as my rear fenders already got hammered stock on gravel roads. Plus I don't want to have anything that could potentially cause catastrophic issues when towing/hauling heavy or being used off road, spacers don't have the best track record for reliability. I guess if it doesn't do much truck stuff it is fine. Not to mention I kind of am a fan of my wheel bearings and would rather not put them under any extra strain as replacing them isn't a fun task. To each their own, stuff like this is why I won't buy a used truck. Tyler
  15. Really surprised no one has come in and say their 2019/2020 is the best vehicle they have ever owned. You hear that often, 15k miles and that is the best ever? Not even going to give it until out of warranty to see if anything has happened to it? I think they are confusing favorite or newest with the most features. Reliability should play a huge part when you say the best ever. I haven't had the decades of experience owning multiple though all of ours/mine has gone around 150k trouble free over the years with maintenance. Best ever family vehicle would be our '91 Astro van. It pulled a boat at it's weight limit all around the great lakes, was dead reliable and went to nearly 250k before we sold it running fine. Did everything we asked with the family and friends including some it wasn't designed for. I have only bought two new vehicles (06 GTO and 14 Silverado) and both have been fantastic and reliable thus far (truck has 80k on it and has been in some extreme situations off road and hauling and the GTO has 58k). Everything else has been used and either bought from family or other outside parties. Tyler
  16. ? Good lord it is as if people are stuck in the 1950's and machining and assembly practices haven't changed in 70 years. Oh yeah, much better to believe those who speak on the forums ? Tyler
  17. $60k? You didn't spend enough to get a perfect truck, those who spend $65k or more usually are trouble free... Either way those are minor issues easily addressed by the dealer or normal regardless and not at all inline with a lemon law. Seriously to say you are not nit picky then bring up lemon law after 100 miles of that? Let the dealer address the steering column noise (if it is extremely faint it is probably the clock spring and most all vehicles have that noise if you listen for it, some a little louder than others especially with more technology going through the steering wheel with more wires). The transmission shifting rough when could is normal, I can't remember ever being in a car that shifts smooth when cold right off the bat until it gets a little heat in it. The rear end noise is most likely normal, mines makes a little clunk when going in to reverse, just a little play in the diff that isn't worrisome but ask the dealer to take a look and replicate it for them. Either way none of this is serious and in need of a new thread asking about a lemon law based on how much you "paid" for the truck. It is new, it has a warranty for a reason, 100 miles let the dealer handle it that is why it is there and they have the opportunity to fix it... The alignment, who knows you'd be surprised what weird things can happen on a mass produced vehicle that rolls off the assembly line every 45 seconds. Tyler
  18. Thanks for being a contributing member to the forum, to join, post a laundry list of failures and issues along with a deal to buy a competitor that certainly doesn't give anyone pause this might be a troll post... You came on here to get youtube advice? Create an account and post it on youtube, pretty simple. Sounds like you should be getting a lawyer though if all those problems are really happening. Best of luck, never understood the rationality of some people. When you have issues going on for a year why not come by earlier and ask questions instead of a sorry I am leaving can you guys help now post while I slander said vehicle? Tyler
  19. A quick google of both brands using 2019 or 2018 F150 and rust reveals threads about the same thing, so not sure why you aren't finding the same thing. It is surface rust and won't cause any issues other maybe making some bolts harder to get off down the road, no brand is immune to it and you will have similar rust on the others. If you like it, buy it and enjoy it. As with anything a little maintenance goes along way from cleaning to lubing and protecting. You should be spraying it off on occasion and if you see fit applying some protectant, same would have to be on the other brands. For what it is worth and all the supposedly negative views about the wax coating, for all the decades they have used it GM hasn't been known to have any frame failures from. Dunking it in wax coats every single nook and cranny both internally and externally, same can't be said for painting... Tyler
  20. Stacking levels and having issues, not surprised. Just go with one or the other as that is really putting a strain on some some of your suspension parts. You did it somewhat right by going with the kits that have new CV axles and control arms but there are limits and only so far you can adjust or move items from the factory points. Aren't there part number stickers on the CV axle you can check and run against what was/is onthe truck? Good luck getting it resolved. Tyler
  21. > Tow Vehicle Maximum Loaded Trailer Weight Rating = 9200lb > Tow Vehicle Maximum Tongue Weight Rating = 1200lb per your hitch but it is recommended to be between 10-15% of the trailer weight not to exceed 1200lb > Tow Vehicle Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) = 7200lb per your All the numbers you have and that file linked by GOMD will give you everything as that is a GM official file. Your payload will probably be your limiting factor, so go by your door jamb as that is specific and made for your vehicle. I would make sure you weigh your truck at a local scale, but figure your trailer tongue weight will be around 10% of the trailer weight dry (unloaded). You should be able to adjust the tongue weight some but the trailer will also have its own GVWR so don't exceed that, and make sure the whole thing is under your GCWR with passengers and gear/liquids (fuel, water, etc). Tyler
  22. Even though the look isn't my cup of tea that is the proper way to do it rather than slapping a set of LED's in a halogen headlight and blinding everyone. Sounds like Spyder is one of the main brands, so they might have style options. Tons of info out there on the LED swap so take a look around, it has been asked a ton and there are many threads detailing it. Either way buy a new headlight and sell your stockers to get some of that money back. Tyler
  23. Here is an excellent site that lets you see option by option what each comes with including packages... https://www.gmc.com/trucks/previous-year/sierra/1500/sle-elevation-slt/build-and-price/trim/compare/trims/table?section=Highlights&styleOne=406641&styleTwo=406645&styleThree=406642 Tyler
  24. "GM obviously has a brake design or pad issue" Yeah, because everyone has had an issue with the brakes failing early, this is the first I have seen of it and brake wear is almost always on the driver and how it is driven. So no, it isn't an obvious brake design issue it is a user issue. As others have said, just replace them, much cheaper. New rotors and pads are around $200. TSB fixes the well known issue with the 8speed and the vibrating, not sure about that. My 2014 is smooth. Best of luck, Ram is notorious for their unreliability, they seem to get everyone with their pretty interior so I don't see you getting much of an upgrade at all and that 5.7 is slower than your 6.2 and maybe even the 5.3. Tyler
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