jjackkrash replied to Akwagon's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)I have a 2020 3500 DRW; I don't really have any seat time in a 2020 2500, so I can't say if the difference is noticeable. I can say the 2020 Duramax with the 10-speed tranny is the bees knees and it holds my 19k lbs. fiver at 70 mph rolling down the freeway nicely. Its a fantastic engine/tranny combo.
jjackkrash replied to Akwagon's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)In the diesels, the 3500 has a bigger ring gear (12") and full torque in first gear; 2500 is torque limited in first gear and has an 11.5" ring gear.
This assessment is just as likely as going the other way, especially if there are any more supply/production interruptions. It is a crap shoot right now. I'd say if you want a truck and find one for a decent price I'd buy it and not look back.
Dry weight is a meaningless and misleading number; look at this number plus the total carrying capacity of the fiver and figure at least 20% of this number in the bed, plus a hundred or more pounds for the hitch, plus anything else you want to put in the truck like tool box, firewood, people, coolers, etc.
If you are looking at 5th wheels--or might ever get a fifth wheel--you should be shopping 3500s, not 2500s. The limiting factor on fifthwheel towing is almost always payload capacity, not tow capacity (or how much it will pull up a hill). Once you toss gear and firewood in the bed plus the hitch plus 20 to 25% of the gross weight of the fiver into the bed, you run out of payload capacity long before you hit that towing number. The price is the same for the 3500s and 2500s and I doubt you could distinguish the unloaded ride quality in a blind test versus a 2500, at least in the GM models. On the GM models, you also get a bigger ring gear and full torque in first gear in a 3500; 2500 gives you smaller ring gear and a torque limiter in first gear. I would visit some RV sites like irv2.com in the towing sections and you will see all the guys that buy 2500s and come in trying to figure out why the numbers are not working out regarding payload, and how they are trying to apply bandaids to their trucks because of the sagging beds and to justify why its ok to tow overloaded. (Yes, it is the same engine, but the engine is only one factor in what you can and should tow behind any particular truck). Do yourself a favor and look closely at the stickers in the door jamb that show the payload capacity and axle and tire capacity for that particular truck before you buy any truck and start running numbers about what you can put in the bed before you buy it.
The adaptor listed in the service bulletin fixed my issue (at least for now). I have one of the specific Dexter actuators listed. Now it appears to work perfectly. Install was easy, splice and solder two wires and fasten adapter to rig next to actuator.
I've never had one of my DMax trucks ('13, '16, '19, '20) climb over 190 under any condition, including towing heavy over passes in 100 degree weather. They usually run under under 160. I don't know about the gassers, but that still seems really hot.
The good news is I didn't have any significant problem stopping an 18-19k fiver coming off freeway speeds with no trailer brakes, other than it felt a little sluggish stopping.
I just hooked up a new Riverstone 5er with electric over hydraulic disc brakes with a Dexter actuator. It works for a second and then throws error messages (service trailer brake system, trailer disconnected, etc.) then the brakes don't work at all. I think based on some internet research and the NHTSA Bulletin (linked below) that a HydraStar EOH actuator adaptor module will fix the problem (and I've ordered it), but I've also noticed that the brake controller is glitchy with all my trailers, won't remember gain settings, and sometimes throws error messages for no apparent reason on my flatbed and dump trailer as well. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10173714-9999.pdf Anyone else having any issues? Are there any software updates on the way? So far the integrated controller and the trailering system is disappointingly glitchy.
I got $12k off msrp on my 3500 DRW/Denali/Duramax in the color I wanted about a week before my state shut down. I was worried the bottom would fall out of the truck market and leave me feeling a little burned, but it hasn't so far, and I feel pretty fortunate I got the truck I got when I did. I don't think there are that many DRWs sitting around on lots, and I doubt that will be their focus when production ramps up. In any event, it looks like demand is still out stripping supply, so I doubt there is going to be any steep discounting anytime soon.
I have had in order an '07 (gas 2500), '10 (gas 2500), '13 (diesel 2500), '16 (diesel 2500), '19 (diesel 3500 DRW), and now '20 (diesel 3500 DRW). The improvements on the '13 in ride quality were big (not counting the improvement just from going to diesel) and the '19 has a beefier engine, but the '20 is pretty big leap forward in so many different ways. If you are worried about bugs, that worry should be more than offset by the gains you are getting from the new model. Seriously, these new trucks are ridiculous, especially if you are looking at a diesel with the 10 speed.
It can also relate to the suspension and how much weight a conventional hitch is pulling off the front tires when the hitch is loaded (this affects braking and handing). So I agree it is a more complicated issue than mere hitch strength. Edit: In fact, without checking, I bet the 2500 and 3500 use the same hitch despite the difference in ratings.
I am not saying you absolutely need a DRW, but just know you are looking at towing a lot of weight coupled with a lot of wind drag. You can do it, but be prepared to take your time and slow down a bit, especially if its blowing out. Things happen really quickly when you are heavy, and one way to mitigate that is to just slow down and manage your expectations. The good news is, the new 2020 trucks really are beefed up, awesome tow vehicles. Frames, brakes, tranny, engine cooling, you name it, it is better this year than its ever been before. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Fifth wheels tow better but they put a lot of weight in the bed of the truck. Really look hard at pin weight versus payload capacity if you are looking at fifth wheels. But, ya, a big bumper pull is really going to pull you around if its that big and heavy.
Trailer sway on a conventional set up is mostly from trailer set up, tongue weight, and how big of a sail your trailer is. A house or a travel trailer is a vastly different thing to tow than a flat bed, a boat or a dump trailer. Until recently I towed a 10k, 36 ft travel trailer, and, frankly, it is a more stressful tow than a 14-15k flatbed when the wind is blowing. I switched to a DRW in '19 (so I have owned both the '19 and the '20 DRW versions) and six wheels and the extra width makes a big difference on stability. I think you are in for an eye opener trying to tow that big a house with an SRW truck.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 105 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,320 Guests (See full list)
- Ray Capobianco
- Walla Walla Joe
- Eddie 70
- Bobby Vu
- Luke Collins
- Carmine Fuoco
- Texas Daddy
- Wyoming T/A
- Peter Thiessen
- Gone Again
- Jay P
- Josh Moreno
- Bill Gutman