amxguy1970

Excellent! Just what we need, more distracted drivers trying to watch videos while driving. This is a big reason I stopped riding my motorcycle, just saw too many people with their phones in their hand or netflix on the dash while driving and too many close calls. They really need to crack down on hacks like this... Tyler

Your truck doesn't have torsion keys, so throw that out the window. Yes, your warranty will not exist for parts that are related to your new installed parts. For example if you have a control arm failure or CV axle failure, there is a high chance it won't be covered as modifications are the first thing GM or any manufacturer checks for prior to approving and paying out claims. They don't want to pay because someone messed with something they designed originally. This also goes to other parts, if you add big heavy wide tires and larger off set wheels your steering rack or wheel bearings might not be covered if they fail as those things can directly impact how hard they have to work. Just remember you have to pay to pay, chances are nothing will go wrong. But your warranty will remain intact for most of the vehicle (they can't deny a window switch or radio because of your leveling kit) but anything the new modifications direct impact they most certainly will try to deny. That isn't to say the dealer might overlook it or warranty it for goodwill but chances are they aren't going to want to pay out of pocket as GM will require documentation before they reimburse or pay for the repair. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145486-9999.pdf Tyler

It will void anything directly related to that warranty issues from GM. Wheel bearings, control arms, CV axles if they fail GM can easily and will decline it, the dealer may pay the repair for you out of good will or may cover it regardless if they installed it. If you look at the GM repair procedure (see below) one of the first things GM directs is to look for modifications, altered engine tuning, leveling kits, intake or exhaust mods, catch can, etc. They design something to work stock, if you mess with it and have a failure that was impacted by that you can't expect them to cover it and I wouldn't; you have to pay to play. You go put massive wide wheels with a large offset and heavy tires and your wheel bearings fail or steering rack goes caput, they won't cover that as they weren't designed to work with those modifications and weights/resistance. So yes, you put a leveling kit on and your control arms fail they aren't going to cover it, if it does it was most likely the dealer not paying attention or doing it out of good will. I waited until after my warranty to start any modifications that impact my warranty as I paid for it and wanted to use it. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145486-9999.pdf Tyler

Never saw this poll so never voted. I would say it would be a long time before I went full electric in my truck, range, charge time and most importantly infrastructure would have to be much improved. I have taken my truck to places where either an electric wouldn't get there and back or it would have been a huge hindrance to plot a path to get to charging stations and wait. For our second vehicle we are considering one as we rented a Tesla in San Diego last year and were quite smitten with it. The Fiancé's car doesn't go or do what my truck does though it does go on road trips and we can plan accordingly with that I would think most of the time, or just take my truck if the area is remote. I am a big proponent of plug in hybrids and that is most likely what her next car with be, the Rav4 Prime to replace her current Rav4 (or one of the competitors like Honda or Hyundai/Kia unless GM comes out with one in a compact CUV). She can charge at work for free, drive there and back not using any gas then we can take road trips with out having to worry about filling up while running on gas and having around town power and fuel savings on electricity. If they did a truck that was a plug in hybrid or even a good legit hybrid that I would be interested in. That Tesla we had in San Diego cost us a little over $10 for 3 days and 2 nights, the hotel had a flat overnight charge fee. A rental car would have costs use over $50 for the same driving if not more at their gas prices. Not to mention the instant torque and get up were intoxicating, it even made my GTO feel slow (Tesla Model 3 Dual Motor Performance). So there are huge positives, combining that instant massive torque around town and when towing would be a huge cost saver for around town driving and low speed towing for trucks which is where they are most inefficient from a start. I would love to drive my 40 mile round trip commute on battery alone, I can only imagine the cost savings I would save on gas versus my current 17ish mpg average. And plug in hybrids also qualify for the tax credit which significantly brings down the cost. To answer the poll, I am in the 10+ years camp once mass produced; either Chevy or GMC most likely but it doesn't matter as which ever has the features and styling or cost I prefer, and they can keep the Silverado/Sierra name as it is just another powertrain, I believe the F150 is doing the same so I see it as just another engine option that happens to be electric. Now if they change the entire styling and interior/exterior then yeah, give it a new name but if it looks similar and uses the same body then keep the same names... Tyler

What steps are those? Tyler

How tall are you 7 foot? I am 6'5 275lbs with broad shoulders and am no where close to brushing my head on the roof of my dads Canyon. It has 1 inch less of head room than my Silverado according to GM (2014 so same body style of the OP's truck). It is skinnier but I am not at all hurting for room even after 4+ hours in the drivers seat, I actually prefer driving his than mine. I have a little more room to spread out in mine (I have the folding bench in the LT) but leg room, head room and shoulder room is not lacking. My dad is 6'4 and we sit side by side without touching just fine, the console is fairly wide with the arm rest. The seats have broken in and are pretty comfortable, overall I give the edge to my truck but would be very happy living with the smaller Canyon and will do so next go around. OP, the best you can do is go sit in one and see. The Crew Cab short bed Colorado will have 15 inches of less wheelbase and 18 inches of less length which is pretty significant. It will still be about 13 inches longer in wheel base and 22 inches longer in length than the grand cherokee but will still be a pretty significant step in terms of maneuverability compared to your current truck. Have to buy what works and makes you happy, so go test one and if you have the means do it, pay attention to comfort as some have issues but most do not but that is unique to each person. Tyler

I don't know if I am just mis-reading what you are stating or you fat fingered something but you aren't getting 80 more horsepower out of just a manifold swap and not with a tune as well. Full bolt ons I can see getting you in the ball park (intake, manifold, throttle body, porting, long tubes and tune). It certainly is an asset to any build in most cases. I have a new intake manifold ready to go with my LS2 as that was a choke point, had it cleaned up and ported and it should be good for around 15hp all in. I am looking to gain around 40-50hp at the wheels with that, my OTR intake, kooks long tubes and high flow cats as well as new plugs and wires and a good tune. Tyler

You know better, if it has been asked a gazillion times why ask it again? Why not just go search the different threads and see what the consensus is? You will get more information that way than a new thread... Tyler

Certainly not a regular occurrence but sh*t does happen, it is a mechanical unit comprised of hundreds of parts. That sucks but we are a GM family and know many who do and I can only recall two who had a transmission issue, one recently at nearly 200k without a fluid change (4 spd) and another years ago when he was younger and beat on it and would regularly throw it in drive from reverse while moving at a good clip. None of our or those that have the 6 spd (including mine) has had an issue. I just changed my filter and fluid last weekend at 78k, shifts fantastic. It hasn't lived an easy life but I treat it well. Good luck, hopefully the next one lasts a long time as they usually do. For what it is worth I have heard of failures with the ZF 8 speed and Allison units as well, it happens. On the plus side these engines are pretty durable, you have a new transmission and hopefully a paid off or nearly paid off truck, so you should be good for years to come. Tyler

Best vehicle ever? That is pretty bold after only 16k miles, usually someone waits until the end of their ownership to make that claim. I understand it has the most features and flash but not sure that would constitute it as best ever, probably nicest ever. It could have some mechanical issues down the road, some electronic gremlins could develop or maybe some suspension issues or interior rattles pop up later on. Have you had some bad vehicles over the years? Our families best vehicle ever so far was a '91 Astro van that only had an alternator failure in the nearly 200k miles we owned out, just changed oil, brakes, a set of spark plugs and shocks. It towed a boat at or over its weight limit all around the great lakes and countless other truck duties when we didn't have a truck; it didn't have that many features or any flash but it was the most reliable for what we used it and put it through. Our '02 Sonoma was fantastic as well, most our GM vehicles have been trouble free over the years through 100k+. Most people reserve the reliability as a key indicator, that is what we determine best ever. Your truck sounds to be off to a good start, it would be fun to see you update this in 5-10 years. Tyler

Nice pic and the long bed is the way to go if you have the room. I didn't know you could add the Z71 package to the High Country, I wish GM made the Z71 and Trail boss a full blown package you can add to any trim level like ford does. Want a WT or Custom with the Z71 package, sure. You like and plan to use the trail boss goodies but aren't with the over played black wheels and bumpers fad and want chrome bumpers? Add that package to the LT or LTZ, just get away from making them a trim level. Tyler

Isn't that a C rated or standard load tire that came on it? How does going to an E-rated tire even though it has more sidewall make it ride better? Those new tires are much stiffer and heavier. Do you off road or just going for the look? 20's are fine for the look but aren't much better in terms of leaving the pavement than the 22's. The function of the 18's got them beat, an aired down 18 feels fantastic off road. Tyler

At least he didn't lose the sale of a 75k truck, he is probably selling plenty of bottom feeding 30k cuv's... Tyler

Tire size questions have been asked countless times and there is usually no straight answer, except in your case. That is the stock size that is on there and you are replacing it with the same size it will fit, not sure why you would second guess that it wouldn't fit? Either way, for other questions just search the forums first, chances are a common question has been asked way too many times to where a new post is any relevant help as people are tired of answering it. Tyler

Your new tires are approximately 1.1" taller so that is 3.5% larger which means you need to multiply your current mileage 1.035 (that is 3.5%). So your 15.4 mpg is really 15.9 mpg. As others have noted, your tires are heavier (stock were P-rated and your new tires appear to be LT rated), they are wider, taller and your truck is taller with the nose more up as opposed to having some aerodynamic rake. All that can certainly add up to nearly 4 mpg at highway speeds, that is a bunch going against the factory aerodynamics and weights. Did you also remove your air dam or do anything to it? Not much you can do but make sure the tires are inflated properly, make sure the air dam is on, maybe add a rear block to angle the nose down a hair for better aero (not lowering it) or lowering the truck a little, 2.5" is awfully larger and will add wear and tear on the front of your truck along with the heavier and larger tires. Gotta pay to play, I understood that when doing my truck so I added a 1.5" level, P-rated tires 1 inch larger but stock width and only trimmed the air dam instead of removing it, I lost between 1-1.5 mpg over stock. Tyler

https://www.chevrolet.com/suvs/suburban/build-and-price/features/trims/table?section=Highlights&section=Mechanical&styleOne=412295&styleThree=412294&styleTwo=412293 This has a nice comparison of all the features and options. Tyler

So the new 6.2 reminded you of the sound and power of a 1975 Dodge Charger 360? That car had a whopping 190 hp and a very unregulated exhaust with some good sound where as the truck is a complete opposite, it is actually kinda quick but very quiet in return all around; not sure how those two remind you of them both... Best sound in the world, what are you 8? That would be the absolute first thing to get rid of, it adds no performance benefit and the second worst sound in the world next to the two guys in dumb and dumber, in other words beyond annoying. Listen to a nicely set up V8 with long tubes, high flow cats and a nice muffler or a flat plane V8, that sounds good, this sounds like something I would use to make a grade schooler smile for a picture real quick. Tyler

^ This. Stacking leveling kits and having to be cautious about what to run would have me second guessing my choices. Sprinkle in the fact that a level truck looks nose high due to the body and any kind of weight in the back for the occasional haul would look like it's over loaded due to sag. Tyler

Nothing is specific, all trucks have a tolerance and a slight variance. What may work for some person might not work for another especially when trying to push the boundary. Tire brands and styles play a hand in it as the same size tire between two manufacturers aren't the same exact size. That is why you search and do your due diligence on all the other thousands of threads and see what most people have works. I personally wouldn't go with what one or two people said in a repetitive thread as the people who may have your specific set up including tire type and brand may have seen something different but they aren't going to go in to 5 threads a day answering the same question when they already have in another thread. As far as the kit goes, your truck is going to hate you. That is why I won't buy a used truck as you never know what the previous owner did and took off. The 3 inch level puts you about maxed out on droop and all the other angles are going to be horrible for long term wear. Even adding UCA's the lower control arms, tie rods and CV's are going to be at pretty extreme angles. If you aren't off roading they may last longer but that is still extreme. Many people for some reason or another say 2.5" is safe (not sure how they pulled that number out of their azz) but that is not the case, anything higher than stock just reduces the life of the components. The further you go from stock the more time it takes out of other parts, just remember that. The larger and heavier you go with tires will also impact your wheel bearings as well as negative offset wheels (very popular in Texas). Just some info for you for a first time truck owner. My set up I went 1 inch larger with tires and stayed P-rated to gain minimal weight and did a 1.5"level in front and 1" rear to keep rake when towing and hauling, I ended up changing the level out to Bilstein leveling shocks when my stockers were worn and set them at 1.25". If you do plan to tow or haul keep some rake in your truck, it will drive and handle better level as too much sagging takes weight off the front tires. Also remember to adjust your headlights down so you don't blind on coming traffic once you have it installed, a large level will be like running around with your brights on to everyone with an HID or LED set up. One more thing, I think your truck has magnetic ride control so I think that may limit level choices? I am not sure as I didn't go that route so I haven't checked in to it, just what I have seen. Maybe that is an option and wasn't standard? Tyler

Well those steps are for people who actually use their truck, they aren't concerned about looks or their appearance at the local Starbucks... Never understood buying a truck based on how it looks, I have heard some petty reasons people say they wouldn't buy something over the years (LED tail lights was one of the worst). If it does everything you want and need for the right price from a brand that historically has done you well, why would you leave for them adding something useful for those real truck guys? They are already neutering them enough with the exuberant costs and all the fluffy tech and flashy gizmos that price those that need them for work out of them. Pool guys, yard guys, construction workers and so on already have a hard time affording a basic version of these because even the base models have to cover the costs of all the box checker models being sold to the image conscious dads. Tyler

Considering a two speed transfer case is useless for most people and the skid plates can be added for a couple hundred (though again if you aren't one that has a use for low range you probably aren't going to have a use for skid plates) and hill descent control is a gimmick; I have never used it on any trails. Positives of the LT other than being cheaper is chrome bumpers, they won't chip and pit down the road nor will you have to cover them in expensive paint protection film for a few hundred dollars so they look descent a few years down the road. Tyler

I think my biggest problem with amsoil isn't that it is bad as it is quite good (best is debatable) but the fact that amsoil sellers/fans are like cross fitters, they just hound you with their information, findings and pages waving flags, posting their boxes full of it and talking how it is the best by far or you will have a higher chance of a failure. You search for amsoil info and you get 300 pages from amsoil forums and dealers/sellers with their information and test results they want you to see and it supports their agenda. Then you have the people selling it giving you their information, well of course they want to you buy it so they get paid. It just feels like it is borderline propaganda with how much they try and force it down peoples throats, and it is that feeling that has me turned off by them. I have never seen any of the other brands pushing their oils on forums, maybe it is because amsoil is small and trying to carve out a niche or following in the market place? Then you factor in the high cost and that the other top main stream brands (Mobil, Pennzoil, Shell, etc) are tested for millions of miles in the engines by designers and engineers of factory motors like GM's LT/LS motors, Dodges Hellcat/SRT motors and even McLaren's and their 720s. They are the same brands used by top race teams in Formula 1, Nascar and Top Fuel, granted in many cases they are special weights or blends but they get to pick and choose oil brands. If all that is good enough those people then my truck/GTO, which was benchmarked with Mobil, it is plenty good enough as well especially as I prefer to follow a reasonable oil change interval of around 6k. Fresher top tier but maybe a half rung down oil from Mobil at a nearly a 3rd the price is better than top tier 3x the price amosil at nearly 20k intervals. And no, the engine isn't going to fail at 75k, 120k and so on most likely because I don't use amsoil and amsoil isn't going to miraculously guarantee no engine issues to 300k+, it is a mechanical unit if it is going to break it can and will break. I keep my vehicles to 150-200k without amsoil and will continue to do so as that is what is recommended by those who built and torcher tested the motor. Tyler

Thought so, was 95% sure they were the same. So I will be able to utilize the left over 75/90 from my truck and then and get a few more bottles and drain and fill. Thanks for the reply's fellas! Tyler

So you had a bad dealer experience, went to another dealer and the handled it and fixed your problem. You had another issue which you fixed your self which I am assuming is because your 2016 is out of warranty, so what is the problem? Sounds pretty minor and were fixed (transmissions issues with the fluid which is well documented to fix it and make it work much better and then you replaced a failed sensor which happen), doubt you will have any better luck with any of the other manufacturers as they all have their problems and some worse than others but good luck I guess? Thanks for letting us know you are leaving! Tyler

So the last few days I have been searching forums, web pages and shopping sites and cannot be certain on this. 2012 Yukon Denali 2wd, does it have the G80 where it is a locker and that means it doesn't need a limited slip additive (ie Friction modifier) or does it have a limited slip out back and needs gear oil with the LS additive or friction modifier in it? I did my truck with a G80 so it did not need any additive, just straight synthetic gear oil, is the same stuff needed for the Yukon Denali? It is a bear finding the stuff without the additive for limited slip differentials in it. Basically it seems the trucks and suv's have the lockers and cuv's and cars have the limited slip, so that would mean the trucks and suv's (Silverado/Sierra and Yukon/Tahoe) have the same rear axles? Also, why is there no SUV GMT-900 sub forum or is it all rolled in to one? Thanks for the input, everything I am seeing points to standard 75-90 gear oil without any additives or modifiers like my truck but would like to be sure before I order it. Tyler