boombalatty

Cool, thank you sir!

Question for the bigger brains in this thread: What I'm currently running: 2017 CCSB Silverado with stamped arms, Belltech 25004 lowering struts set to the lowest setting (the one slightly taller ring) in the front, and I have the rear brought down with a pair of McGaughys 33037 1"-2" drop shackles on the lowest setting with the block removed. What I want: Before the Belltechs I was leveled and the plan was to bring the front end down a little to minimize the squatted look it would have depending on where it was sitting (an optical illusion from street inclines). With the additional drop in the front, I now want to bring the back end down either to level or just a bit higher 'because aesthetics.' Finally, the question: Assuming I'm currently at a 2.5"-3" drop in the back, is my only option for bringing the back end down further to a 4" or 5" total drop going to be installing new hangers and replacing the stock shackles?

Man, that looks great in that spot!

Materials: * (1) Metal hanger cut to length * (3) 3/8" x 3" heatshrink tubing scraps * (1) Magnetic micro-USB cable (run behind the dash to glove box) * (1) Magnetic sticky puck (stuck to the ashtray) * (1) Steel disk (stuck the back of the phone)

Looks like Crew by the legroom and space around the carseat.

Looking at the results, this might be on my to-do list very soon. Looks great!

I pulled the passenger rear wheel off to fiddle with some Plasti Dip and tossed the spare on because it's been too humid as of late (really, I'm just realistic about how long it will take me to do.) Low and behold, the shake has appeared at 70 MPH and above. I'm looking forward to putting the stock wheel back on.

You can probably learn all you need to know from AMMO NYC and Chemical Guys on Youtube. You don't need everything Chemical Guys pitch, but some of it is nice and can make things easier. I'd recommend searching for "AMMO TRAINING ACADEMY" if you want to kill a couple hours with a guy who is OCD about cleaning cars Here's what I did: Rinsed the truck to get rid of the large contaminants - I was shaded pretty good and was going to wash it anyway so I wasn't too worried about it drying. Washed and rinsed the wheels, bumpers, and exhaust tip (dedicated bucket) Another rinse I washed it using the two bucket method (the other two buckets) Final rinse Dried it off with microfiber towels and took it home (it was still kind of dirty because light pressure during the wash doesn't get it all) Clay barred it in the shade using a quick detaling wax for lubrication Applied sealant with my DA polisher and a light/medium hex CG buffer pad and buffed it off by hand Applied liquid with my DA polisher and an ultra fine (black) hex CG pad and buffed it off by hand Things I used: Three buckets (two homer buckets, one small random for the wheels) California Gold Clay Bar System (comes with a quick detailing spray) California Gold Car Wash Chemical Guys White Light Hybrid Radiant Finish Mothers Ultimate Liquid Wax Harbor Freight 6" Dual Action Polisher Chemical Guys 5" DA backing plate to replace the horrid HF one (BUFLC_BP_DA_5) CG 5" black hex pad (finishing) CG 5" white hex pad (light buff) and so many plush microfiber towels. so many. The dusting was done with copious amounts of cursing and a microfiber duster I picked up from Target.

Washed, clay barred, sealant and waxed. Looked great until the lawn crew blew all the dead grass clippings and dirt all over it. Looked like an idiot dusting a truck but I damn well did it.

Nice use of the accessory tray!

A body lift?

I'd do it if I could to ease up on the six months of summer sun baked interior I have to deal with here. The LEOs in my area are eager to stop and chat with folks and the reasons you like it are the reasons they hate it, especially in the bad neighborhoods. I see both sides - just thought I'd try for a joke. It really does make the trucks look good.

All you guys with your tinted windshields. Sunglasses seem cheaper than fix-it tickets to me (They do look pretty cool)

Nope, just the regular GM suspension. Before the air tools I made some mistakes on jack placement and one side ended up costing me about two hours with hand tools and apologizing to a neighbor when my wheel went on an adventure. After the air wrench and knowing where to put the jack stands and floor jack, the passenger side took less than twenty minutes. Embarrassingly faster. I do have drop shackles on too so it dropped it about dead even. As for pictures, you might want to take a swim through the leveling kits thread that's stickied. Lots of pics and info in there. This post has pics with the drop shackles on and blocks removed.

Took the rear blocks out and bought an air wrench halfway through the job. Sure you can do it by hand, but you really don't want to.

I'm sure I'll get used to it. It's my first custom exhaust in 20 years of driving so it's a new experience haha. I did drive a bit with the windows down and you're right that it does sound good when you put your foot in it. It's dynamic too but I can't seem to keep off the accelerator.

Yeah I did. V4 isn't bad but the transmission sticking to a lower gear forever when I'm trying to accelerate is annoying but that's more a byproduct of the trans than the muffler. Running in 'manual' mode is more pleasant audibly and responsively. When it switches to V4 it just gets really quiet much like the stock sound.

Put a Carven R series on and removed the flapper valve. Kept the three cats. Dunno how I feel about it yet. The tone is nice but it's a little drone-ish on the highway.

Vvivid Black Matte 60" x 1ft Car Wrap Vinyl Roll with Air Release 3MIL-VViViD8. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L9JAS80/ There's enough that you can be terrible at wrapping and still have leftovers after wrapping all three emblems. I let my hack job stay on for the day so I could look at it and nitpick the color difference between it and the Summit White, but it's pretty darn close. Close enough that I wouldn't mind leaving it on there if it didn't look like a mess. That one was the VViViD White High Gloss Realistic Paint-Like Microfinish Vinyl Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YLFQ7W0/ Edited to add glorious day time pictures.

Found some vinyl pretty close to Summit White and tried wrapping one of the three chrome bars of my LT grille. It ... happened, I guess. First time ever working with vinyl so major learning curve. But on the upside, after I butchered the white I put some black matte on the bowtie. I cut the bowtie along the wrong ridge and ended up with an 1/8" gold border around the matte and I like it. Reminds me of the ol Heartbeat logo.

And here's some video of it in action.

I got all the materials finally and got the cable hanger made up and installed. Materials: * (1) Metal hanger cut to length * (3) 3/8" x 3" heatshrink tubing scraps * (1) USB man * (1) Magnetic micro-USB cable Since I was going down near the console accessory tray, there's a convenient mounting bracket that's directly below it with a few good sized bolts that I could use to secure the hanger to the bracket. I pulled off the cover, selected a bolt to use and removed it. I used a pair of needle nose to create an eye loop on one end of the coat hanger and then ran the bolt through it and tightened everything down. Next bent and cut down the end of the hanger that will be near the USB jack After a little playing around with the length and angle, I attached the cable to the hanger using the heatshrink tubing. And ran the USB cable over to the top glove box and the USB port there. I had to use a non-powered hub so I could keep power to my dash cam going. I feel like rerunning that or trying to tie into power was worth the cost of the hub ($3)

Got the mount in along with a new case (it was time) and tossed it on the dash to get an idea of how it would work. Yep, totally mounted the magnet upside down but whatever. Here are some pics of the test fit. I still need to grab some heat shrink tubing, a USB splitter, and find a metal coat hanger to cut up and use to mount/hold the USB wire in place. Here's a video of me playing around with putting the phone on the mount and playing with my floppy cable ;)

Loose change is hard to come by with the kid and the wife on the prowl. Seems like a good spot for it though!

I'm thinking I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these and jimmy up a coat hanger and some heat shrink tubing to hold the USB cable in place. I've got the USB cable now and it is irritating as heck. Because the phone can move and the magnet is weak, it will disconnect just enough to break the connection if it's not laying down occupying all three of my cupholders. It won't stay connected in the flat top area that attacts phones at all because the phone is too long and it puts lateral pressure on the cable connection that the magnet can't cope with. Eh, cheap weekend project here we come. I'll post some pics and stuff. Slim magnetic mount Magnetic attach USB cable